Tag Archives: Autobiography of Sir Mirza Ismail – My Public Life

Mirza Ismail, the ‘serial Diwan’ who made industrial Bangalore beautiful, painted Jaipur

Bengaluru, KARNATAKA :

Mirza Ismail, who was born to Persian parents, wrought a civic revolution in four Indian cities during the 1940s.

Prime Minister Sir Mirza Ismail (centre) of Hyderabad state, 1948 | Commons


Between 1926 and 1948, Mysore, Bangalore, Hyderabad and Jaipur enjoyed the attention of ‘serial Diwan’ Mirza Ismail. Born in 1883 to Persian parents, Ismail grew up in Bangalore, where he would return in his final years, passing away in 1959.

From the age of 43, Mirza Ismail was appointed as diwan successively by the Maharaja of Mysore (1926–41), the Nizam of Hyderabad (1942–46) and the Maharaja of Jaipur (1946–47). These rulers, like the Mughal badshahs, respected and honoured their engineers and townscapists. Mirza Ismail was to them what Ali Mardan Khan, the brilliant Persian engineer who laid out the plans for the Lahore and Delhi canals, had been to Shah Jahan.

In Jaipur, the ruler commemorated him by naming a road after him, just like architect Edwin Lutyens’ engineers Hugh Keeling and Alexander Rouse had two major roads in New Delhi to their names (later changed to Tolstoy Marg and Deen Dayal Upadhyay Marg, respectively), even though Edwin Lutyens and architect Herbert Baker themselves were apportioned obscure lanes.

There were some princes, in whose states aesthetic values meshed with their eagerness to adopt innovations to improve urban and rural areas. But Mirza Ismail never felt it was enough. In My Public Life: Recollections and Reflections (published in 1954), he wrote: “Administrations in India, with hardly any exception, have taken little or no interest in the improvement of their cities and towns; the villages, of course, need hardly be mentioned. Look at the great open spaces in crowded London – or in Paris. How many cities in India can boast of such parks? The municipalities are apt to spend their income, not on sanitation and the necessary amenities of life, but on educational institutions which it is the duty of the States’ Governments to provide. Public parks and private gardens may not be the most important amenities, but they are necessary to a full and happy life. The beautification of our towns and cities must be a continuous process… Unfortunately, just as nature abhors a vacuum, so do our municipalities abhor open spaces. They are not satisfied until all are built upon…It is to my mind obligatory for the administration to provide for the recreation and enjoyment of the people, especially the poorer classes, and enable them to enjoy themselves without expense. I have tried to do this wherever I could — in Mysore, Jaipur and Hyderabad.”

Making Bangalore beautiful

If M. Visvesvaraya, as Diwan of Mysore (1912–19), made Bangalore (now Bengaluru) an industrial city, then Mirza Ismail made it a beautiful one, with the Lalbagh and the streets lit by chandelier lamp posts. An interesting story about him goes that he did not simply glance around to check if things were in good condition – he would lift the corner of a carpet to see if the floor had been swept. Mysore still proudly flaunts the label of ‘The Garden City of India’.

His brief spell in Jaipur wrought a civic revolution. An article in the New York Times in 1942 remarked that Jaipur had been a picture of neglect, but after two years of Mirza Ismail’s sojourn, it was “more thoroughly transformed and improved than New York after Robert Moses got through with it.’ (Robert Moses, a contemporary of Mirza Ismail, was himself compared to Baron Haussmann, who transformed Paris in the 1860s). “Reconstruction, new parks, new buildings, restorations and improvements of all kinds are now going on at an amazing pace for India. The city swarms with workers as busy as bees,” Ismail wrote in his book.

He continued, “Money is meant to be spent reproductively, not to be hoarded. If I had not constructed the new offices and new bungalows and made many other improvements in Jaipur, it would probably not have been chosen under the new dispensation as the capital of Rajasthan.”

The illustrious photographer Cecil Beaton, after visiting Jaipur, spoke highly of Ismail in his praise for the city: “Nowhere else in the world have I seen such brilliant and robust colours used to produce an effect so refined and subtle. Sir Mirza is the arch-enemy of corrugated iron sheets, brass bands (Indian) and of almost everything else that is crude and vulgar. The money he spends is put into circulation and is used as a means of getting rid of unhygienic conditions and sources of disease. Already the metamorphoses he has achieved in a short time are incredible, but his plans are as countless as his inspirations.”

But Mirza Ismail was too astute a person not to see the writing on the wall. “Governments in the East,” he reflected, “do not enjoy the confidence and respect of the public they serve. Our countries so easily become the paradise of the professional politician.”

This article is the sixth of an eight-part series on ‘Reading A City’ with Saha Sutra on www.sahapedia.org, an open online resource on the arts, cultures and heritage of India. 

Dr Narayani Gupta writes on urban history, particularly that of Delhi. Views are personal.

Read the series here.

source: http://www.theprint.in / The Print / Home> Opinion> Sahapedia / by Narayani Gupta / January 05th, 2024

Men of the Horse

Mysuru (Mysore), KARNATAKA :

There are many miles that separate Bengaluru from Haifa. But our city’s connection to this distant Mediterranean port town goes beyond geography to that of the spirit. It is where Mysorean cavalrymen earned honours and distinguished themselves during World War I. The town also became a final resting place for many who never returned home.

These men on horseback were the inheritors of an older legacy.  Both Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan, the 18th century rulers of Mysore, were known for their famous cavalry, the `Savar’ that had fought on home territory in the Anglo-Mysore Wars almost 150 years ago.

The Mysore Lancers (says a commemorative souvenir) were raised from what remained of this cavalry following the 4th Anglo-Mysore War in 1799.

The regimental insignia and Mysore’s royal emblem, the two headed Ganda Berunda eagle

Bengaluru’s equestrian legacies also extended beyond the military; the Bangalore Turf Club is a heritage institution and the Race Course that was initially located near Domlur was as old as the Cantonment, Horse riding in Cubbon Park was `de rigeur‘ till the early 1900’s, many large houses had private stables and British Commissioner Sir Mark Cubbon even built a new home beyond Cubbon Park  to accommodate his beloved horses!

Military forces in India’s princely states were maintained purely as a formality for a very long time following 1857.

But Viceroy Lord Dufferin’s landmark speech in Patalia (1888) signalled a change.

The Mysore (Mysuru) Maharaja Chamarajendra Wodeyar X was one of the first to raise a military force (including an Infantry and Transport Corps) capable of fighting alongside Imperial troops anywhere in the world. Major Mellis arrived here in 1890 to rearrange the two existing Silledar regiments into the Mysore Horse based in Mysore, and the Bangalore based Mysore Imperial Service Lancers (Mysore Lancers).

The Investiture Ceremony: “On the arrival of the Viceroy at the Imperial Service Lines, he was received by Dewan Krishna Murthi and conducted to a position near the saluting flag. After the horses of the entire regiment had lain down on the word of command so as to form covers for their riders in action, the regiment formed mass and the men dismounted and left their horses entirely alone with the rein passed through the girths. Rockets, carbine discharges and other noises were then made to test the training of the horses and except one or two horses which broke away, the remainder kept perfectly steady and unconcerned. After galloping past and advancing in review order, the Lancers cheered His Excellency. The Viceroy remarked that the display he had seen proved the excellence of the training of the horses and the special attention paid to the matter by Colonel Desaraj Urs… The manoeuvres subsequent to special show in connection with the horses reflected great credit, said His Excellency, on the regiment.” –M Shama Rao, Modern Mysore

The Mysorean, with his “superior physique” was also “specially noted for his endurance and hard work in distant countries and under the most trying conditions of climate and fatigue.”* And so, as part of the 15th Imperial Service Cavalry Brigade (this included the Patiala, Jodhpur and Hyderabad Horse) the men left Bangalore on 13th October, 1914 under the field command of Lt.Col. Chamaraj Urs Bahadur.

They were accompanied by Special Officers Major MH Henderson and Lt. K Evans-Gordon and Colonel J. Desraj Urs (Commander-in Chief of the Mysore State Forces and brother-in-law to Maharaja Sir Nalwadi Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV).

The men in the distinctive black head collar rope, black and white lance pennant, crossed lance badges on the chain mail epaulettes and the royal Ganda Bherunda insignia of Mysore disembarked to defend the Sweet Water Canal and undertake reconnaissance duties to the east of the Suez Canal. 

Many of us in the city can proudly trace family who in 1914, were a part of the largest volunteer army in the world!

Fans of a sun tanned Peter O’ Toole in the film `Lawrence of Arabia’ will know that our Mysorean men and the legendary TE Lawrence were both part of a WWI force commanded by Field Marshall Sir Edmund Allenby. But off screen conditions were very tough. Water sources were scarce. Thousands of cavalry horses and Transport Corps animals perished at various stages-en route, during combat and post-war.The emaciated and weak were left by the road to be picked up and (hopefully) rehabilitated by the Remount and Veterinary Corps.Most were not so lucky.

Much has been written about the Battle of Haifa where Mysorean cavalrymen braved German and Austrian guns as they charged alongside the Jodhpur Lancers to route an artillery battery located on a hill above the town.

Mysore’s two headed eagle also altered history at Gaza, Jordan Valley, Sharon, Megiddo, Damascus and Palestine. Their roles in these decisive battles saw the officers, including Captain B. P. Krishne Urs, 29 year old Mir Turab Ali and Risaldar Subbaraja Urs, and their loyal horses receive a hero’s welcome in 1920.

Sirdar Bahadur Lt.Col. Chamaraj Urs succeeded the distinguished Col.J Desraj Urs to the post of Commandant-in-Chief in 1919.

The horsemen were then reconstituted into the New Horsed Cavalry Regiment, raised in Jaipur on January 1st, 1953 under the special dispensation of Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru.It was named the 61st Cavalry a year later. It is the only horse cavalry regiment in the world and is equally well-known for its indomitable equestrian sportsmen.

My grand aunt, Mrs. Syeda Mirza tells me that her husband, my grand uncle the late Major Mohammad Mirza, a Bengalurean 61st cavalryman, dashing polo player and nephew of Sir Mirza Ismail, Diwan of Mysore (1926-1941) commanded the elite President’s Bodyguard for Dr.Rajendra Prasad and Dr. S Radhakrishnan in the 1960’s. He was also in the Ganganagar Sector with the 61st Cavalry during the 1971 War.

Standing second from right: Major Mohammad Mirza. Photo Source: Sixty First Cavalry Diamond Jubilee Souvenir, courtesy: Mrs. Syeda Mirza

I was returning to Jaipur with the children after visiting my parents in Hyderabad” she says “and hired a porter to help with the luggage. He deposited me near the army vehicle that had come to receive us, and refused to take any payment. He said he could not take money from someone whose husband was fighting for the country.” She adds, “those were very tough times for wives and families.With no mobile phones or connectivity like it is today, we had no way to stay in regular touch with our loved ones.We just had to manage as best as we could on our own.

While a tribute to Indian cavalrymen is visibly embedded at Teen Murti Circle, New Delhi, a smaller Memorial Column on Col. Desraj Urs Road in Bengaluru’s Munireddy Palya stands overshadowed by the massive TV Tower nearby. The long forgotten structure lists all the brave men including officers Captain A.Lingaraj Urs (son-in-law to the Field Commander) and a Meer Ashroff Ali who lost their lives upholding the honour of Mysore state. Most city folks ride by without a second glance these days.

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On the Roll of Honour:

A Lingaraj Urs and Meer Ashroff Alli, Venkata Rao Maney, Annaji Dhummal, Rachunatha Rao Birjey, Mohammed Abdul Sattar, Nar Singh, Mohammed Peer Khan, Rahimon Khan, Ganapaty Rao Sindhey, Rama Rao Gaikwad, Manadeva Rao Bobdey, Sheik Ibrahim, Sham Singh, Roya Sundaram, Chithambara Rao Ithapay and Meer Abdul Latheef.

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This story was originally published in the Bangalore Mirror on April 11th 2016.Read it here.

* M Shama Rao, Modern Mysore, Page 104-106

source: http://www.aturquoisecloud.wordpress.com / A Turquoise Cloud / by Aliyeh Rizvi

The Unknown Side Of Sir Mirza Ismail: His Lineage And Legacy

Bengaluru / Mysuru , KARNATAKA :

October 24th was the 137th birth anniversary of Sir Mirza Ismail, one of the Dewans of the erstwhile Mysore State who later went on to become the Dewan of the Princely States of Jaipur and Hyderabad too.

To mark this event, the Anjuman-E-Hadiqatul Adab, Mysuru, conducted a webinar that was well-received by the large number of viewers who logged in. I can say with some confidence that the Anjuman requires no introduction to most Mysureans because it is well-known for the annual Eid Milan get-together which it has been hosting over the past fifteen years to promote communal harmony and camaraderie among people of different faiths.

This event is as old as my column is because it is with my report of the first Eid Milan, which I filed for Star of Mysore, that my column was born! However, this year’s Eid Milan unfortunately could not be conducted because COVID-19 wiped out all celebrations from the entire face of this earth. Let’s all hope that things will change for the better before it is time to hold the Eid Milan next year.

Niranjan Nikam, the well-known senior journalist, who again does not need any introduction to most Mysureans, was the principal speaker at the webinar. He spoke on ‘The Unknown side of Sir Mirza Ismail,’ a topic which I suggested because I felt that by being slightly unusual, it would certainly be a crowd-puller! And Niranjan rose up to the expectations of his large virtual audience admirably well. Through some very painstakingly collected and well-curated references, Niranjan brought out many very interesting anecdotes from the life of Sir Mirza which were very noteworthy because I don’t think they are known to present day Mysureans.

Although it is understandable and expected too, that any speaker worth his salt will come well-informed and well-prepared for his talk, it quickly became evident to me that Niranjan was privy to much inside information which left me more than a little amazed. Take for instance the revelation that upon his death, the body of Sir Mirza that had already been interred was once again exhumed when there was a hue and cry from many grieving members of the public that they did not get a chance to see it and pay their last respects to their dear leader.

The body was once again displayed on a platform of sand for many more hours till late in the night and till all the people assembled there were satisfied that they had paid their homage to the man before it was interred into the grave once again. I have never heard of anything like this having happened, anywhere in the world in connection with the death of any public figure. DVG, the well-known Kannada writer, in his account about Sir Mirza has said that among the mourners was a frail old lady who was weeping bitterly saying that Sir Mirza, once while on his morning rounds, in response to her humble plea summoned one of the municipal engineers and ordered him to immediately provide a water tap to the street she lived in!

R.K. Narayan, the famous writer says in his autobiography, ‘My Days’ on page 138 that when his writing was not very paying, with him having got just 40 pounds for his book ‘The Dark Room’, it was Sir Mirza who got him a free railway pass and a government grant and commissioned him to write his book on Mysore, which Narayan was keen on writing.

As Niranjan’s talk progressed, the pieces of a most interesting jigsaw puzzle began to fall in place one by one. Niranjan revealed that his wife Pamela and he were associated for over ten months with the production of a book on Agha Aly Asker, the paternal grandfather of Sir Mirza, written by Sir Mirza’s very charming and graceful nephew Maj. Mohammed Mirza’s wife Syeda Mirza who stays in Bengaluru. The book which the speaker had brought with him, says that Sir Mirza who shared a very close working association and more significantly a very intimate friendship with the then Maharaja of Mysore, Sri Nalwadi Krishnaraja Wadiyar, would not have been a part of the history and growth of Mysore if his very enterprising grandfather, Agha Aly Asker, as a sixteen-year-old lad had not overheard a conversation between two people who were sipping tea in a chaikhana at his hometown, Shiraz in Iran. Learning that there was a great demand for Arab horses in the court of the Maharaja of a distant kingdom called Mysore, he decided to try his luck in selling them where they were in demand. So, he wasted no time in buying two hundred fine steeds and setting sail with them to India from Iran in the year 1824. The most surprising fact is that every one of those two hundred horses survived this long and arduous journey over sea and land, reaching Bangalore, alive and kicking!

The man who sold the horses to the Maharaja endeared himself to his customer and settled down in Bangalore which soon became his ‘Karmabhumi’ according to the writer Syeda Mirza. At that time Mummadi Krishnaraja Wadiyar, the then Maharaja of Mysore was about to become a victim of the very vicious Doctrine of Lapse imposed on Indian royalty by a very scheming British regime by which it could annex any kingdom if the ruler did not have a direct heir. It is reported that Agha Aly Asker became very close to the Maharaja because he could through his good relationship with Sir Mark Cubbon, the British Commissioner, get the Crown to restore the kingdom’s reins into the Maharaja’s hands, which understandably must have been a very difficult task. Meanwhile Sir Mark Cubbon commissioned Aly Asker to build more than a hundred bungalows around High Grounds, Richmond Town and the Bangalore Cantonment, many of which still stand in testimony to his abilities. We also have the Ali Asker Road named after him in Bengaluru on which his own house too still stands, although in a very vestigial state.

The close relationship between his family and the Mysore royal family continued down the line with his grandson, Sir Mirza Ismail becoming the classmate of the young Maharaja Sri Nalwadi Krishnaraja Wadiyar at the private royal school that was being run in the Summer Palace in Bangalore. Sir Mirza, who graduated from the Central College, Bangalore in the year 1905 and held many high posts was the first Indian to become the Private Secretary to the Maharaja. At the age of forty-two, he also went on to become the youngest Dewan of the State of Mysore in the year 1926 after A.R. Banerjee relinquished office.

His love for Mysore was so intense that in a speech that was aired on All India Radio, which can still easily be found on its archives in the internet, Sir Mirza says: I want Mysoreans to wash with Mysore soap, dry themselves with Mysore towels, clothe themselves in Mysore silk, ride Mysore horses, eat abundant Mysore food, drink Mysore coffee, sweetened with Mysore sugar, equip their houses with Mysore furniture, light them with Mysore lamps and write on Mysore paper!

Sir Mirza in his autobiography, ‘My Public Life’ says that the passing away of his dear friend, the Maharaja was the greatest sorrow that he had known! Towards the last phase of his active public life Sir Mirza seemed to have lapsed into a slightly disillusioned frame of mind. Here in Mysore he was seen by his detractors as a Muslim who was unusually close and influential with a Hindu Maharaja only because of his childhood friendship. At Jaipur he was seen as anti-Hindu while at Hyderabad he was seen as anti-Muslim because he did not support its existence as an independent State, without integration into the Indian Union!

It is said that once when the Maharaja and he were doing their morning rounds together on horseback, Sir Mirza, for reasons best known to him, expressed his desire to step down from his post. The Maharaja smiled and pointing towards the Chamundi Hill said: “You can do it when I go there.” He meant the cremation ground at the foot of the hill! And, that is how it was. Sir Mirza’s death came calling at the age of seventy-five while he was still very active. His demise was mourned not only here at home but across the world too, with newspapers in many countries writing about his very productive life.

Reporting on Sir Mirza’s resignation as Dewan of Mysore, The Ceylon News on May, 12th, 1941 said, Truth is a paradox and so is greatness. Sir Mirza too was a man of paradoxes. He was an autocrat with democratic instincts. A dictator with a weakness for having a constitution. A capitalist with socialist leanings. An idealist with an intense practical outlook. A dreamer with the astute mind of a businessman. A most charming man but a very stern and strict official. A perfect host but an indifferent friend. And he had no bosom friends, except the late Maharaja of Mysore!

The most amazing thing that Niranjan revealed in his talk was that the grand-old-man of India, Sir C. Rajagopalachari, fondly known as Rajaji, the first Indian to become the Governor General of India, at the time of the imminent partition told Sir Mirza to accept the invitation of Mohammed Ali Jinnah and go over to Pakistan. When a shell-shocked and very outraged Sir Mirza angrily asked him why, he said, “that way we will have someone in Pakistan who will love India and thus ensure that the Pakistanis too will do the same!” A wry but a terrific compliment indeed !

e-mail: kjnmysore@rediffmail.com

source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> Columns, Over A Cup of Evening Tea / November 07th, 2020