Category Archives: Travel & Tourism

Who First Put Aloo In Biryani?

Kolkata, WEST BENGAL :

That culinary addition is attributed to Chef Manzilat Fatima’s great-great grandfather Wajid Ali Shah, the Nawab of Awadh.

Chef Manzilat Fatima, April 22, 2024. (image courtesy: Umang Sharma)

Manzilat’s great-grandfather did

On most evenings, Manzilat Fatima’s rooftop restaurant in South Kolkata, aptly named Manzilat’s, is packed with food connoisseurs waiting to taste the incredible dishes she prepares for them. But there is another reason foodies climb four flights of stairs to her quaint little eatery.

An engraving of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah. Pic Courtesy/ Wikimedia Commmons

What Manzilat does, is nothing short of remarkable.  Not only does she tantalize the tastebuds of food lovers with exceptional dishes such as Chicken Lazeez Shami Kebab, Lakhnavi Murgh Biryani, or the famed Lakhnawi Mutton Yakhni Pulav – but she also evocatively creates a bridge between the present and the royal past of Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh.

Manzilat Fatima is the great-great granddaughter of the Nawab who made his home in Kolkata after the British East India Company annexed his kingdom.  He gave the culinary world the famed aloo in Biryani.

A descendant of Awadh

“I am a direct descendent of Wajid Ali Shah and Begum Hazrat Mahal ,” Manzilat reveals.

After the annexation, her great, great grandmother Begum Hazrat Mahal who took charge of Awadh, put her son Birjis Qadr on the throne in 1857. Birjis Qudr was the son of Jaan e Alam Wajid Ali Shah and Begum Hazrat Mahal.

Manzilat is the daughter of Dr. Kaukub Qudr Meerza, the grandson of Birjis Qudr, she explains.

Like her pantry, stocked with delectable food, Manzilat is a storehouse of stories and fascinating history.

A conspiracy at play

According to Manzilat, despite having no inheritance, Birjs was still the legal heir of Wajid Ali Shah and Begum Hazrat Mahal.

“Birjs Qadr had a son Mehr Qadr who was my grandfather,” adds Manzilat. “He did not have any siblings growing up. He did have a family, but they were assassinated in cold blood on August 14, 1893.”

Manzilat says that the British invited Mehr Quadr from Kathmandu to Calcutta under a false pretext. “The other descendants of the Awadh royal family wanted to snuff out the last crown king, even though there was nothing to inherit by then.”

There was a deeper conspiracy at play.

A dish of Awadhi biryani (image courtesy: Manzilat Fatima restaurant)

A poisoned dinner

“In order to snuff out this branch they cooked up a conspiracy along with the British and invited him and his family over for dinner where they laced the food with poison. In that tragedy, he, along with a son and daughter as well as his guards and dogs were murdered.”

Only Mehr Quadr’s wife, Mehtab Ara Begum, survived. She was pregnant with Manzilat’s grandfather and did not attend the dinner. “Had she gone for the dinner, the entire course of history would perhaps have been different,” says Manzilat.

Her grandmother, Mehtab Ara Begum, survived along with an unborn child – Manzilat’s father- and a daughter who was four years old at that time. The little girl grew up and married, but died childless. But the lineage of Wajid Ali Shah continued through Mehr Qadr and Manzilat’s father Kaukub Qudr Meerza.

“My lineage shaped me into a very loyal Indian,” she says. “We grew up hearing stories of valor of Begum Hazrat Mahal and Birjs Qadr and how, after 1857, (she) chose to live free in Kathmandu, Nepal. Our history helped us be grounded and honest. We learned the art of sacrifice.”

From lawyer to chef

Growing up, Manzilat heard stories about the tragedy and the conspiracy that destroyed her family – from their time in Lucknow until Birjs Qadr’s assassination, and how her grandfather was protected and grew up very sheltered because of the constant threat to his life.

Being a chef was not always the game plan. Manzilat studied at Aligarh Public School and graduated with an English (Hons) degree from Women’s College, Aligarh Muslim University. She enrolled at Calcutta University for her Master’s in English and a few years after her marriage, even completed a five-year LL.B course in 2002.

Chef Manzilat Fatima (image courtesy: (Umang Sharma)

Manzilat opened the doors to her kitchen to food lovers from all over the world. As the smoke rises from her tender Mutton Awadhi Galwtii Kebab, or tear-drop-shaped condensation rolls down her chilled Khus ka sherbet, or even as patrons savor the pillowy soft aloo in their biryani, Manzilat knows that she has not only served some delectable dishes but offered her guests a panoramic view into the world of her ancestors and what they stood for – the mighty Wajid Ali Shah, the indomitable Begum Hazrat Mahal. 

In the fragrant aroma of her kitchen, Manzilat Fatima is the custodian of the legacy of the last Nawab of Awadh. Her guests experience more than just culinary delights; they immerse themselves in a narrative of courage, tradition, and the enduring spirit of Awadh.

source: http://www.indiacurrents.org / India Currents / Home> Food> India> Lifestyle / by Umang Sharma / April 26th, 2024

India’s new UNESCO site museum reveals Mughal emperor’s life, legacy

NEW DELHI :

  • Humayun World Heritage Site Museum in New Delhi opened for visitors on Tuesday
  • Latest addition to 16th-century tomb complex ‘brings alive 700 years of heritage’

Visitors look at artifacts at the Humayun World Heritage Site Museum — the newest addition in Humayun’s Tomb complex — in New Delhi on July 29, 2024. (AN Photo)

https://arab.news/4zpjh

New Delhi :

The second Mughal emperor Humayun was widely known as an avid reader fond of journeys, architecture, and storytelling. Almost half a millennium after his death, a new museum in the heart of New Delhi highlights his role in shaping India’s cultural heritage.


Opened for visitors on Tuesday, the Humayun World Heritage Site Museum is the newest addition in Humayun’s Tomb complex — a landmark 300-acre area in New Delhi’s Nizamuddin that features dozens of historical monuments and includes Sunder Nursery, a 16th-century heritage park.


The advent of the Mughal dynasty, which ruled the Indian subcontinent between the 16th and 19th centuries, marked the global revival of Islamic architecture, with works that until today are examples of the highest quality and refinement.


Originally from Central Asia, the Mughals carried cultural elements borrowed from Arabs, Persians and Ottomans. As they settled in India, they fused these with the various local styles found in their new domains.


Humayun was the son and successor of Babur, founder of the dynasty, and ruled the empire from 1530 to 1540 and again from 1555 until his death the following year.


The new museum, established by the Agha Khan Trust for Culture and the Archaeological Survey of India, traces Humayun and his descendants’ lives, as well as the 700-year-old history of the whole Nizamuddin locality and its influence on Indian culture.


“There are hundreds of stories to be told, which the stones don’t speak,” Ratish Nanda, conservation architect and projects director at the AKTC, told Arab News. “The idea is to bring alive 700 years of heritage.”


The museum is located in Humayun’s Tomb, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the first of the grand mausoleums that became synonymous with Mughal architectural innovations and, three generations later, culminated in the construction of India’s most iconic monument, the Taj Mahal.
About 7 million tourists from across India and abroad visit the complex every year.


“The idea is that people who now visit the World Heritage Site come with a deep understanding of the site,” Nanda said.


“We’ve been able to … combine architectural elements with incredible manuscripts, miniature paintings, calligraphy, textiles, coins, metalware, architectural elements — one is two one scale — with lots of films and digital technology, and models and so on.”


Spanning five galleries, the underground museum has over 500 artefacts sourced from the collections of the National Museum in New Delhi, ASI and AKTC.


“It captures the 700 years of history that is associated with the region of Nizamuddin and the World Heritage site of Humayun’s Tomb …This museum really captures the history,” said Ujwala Menon, AKTC conservation architect.


“The principal gallery talks about Humayun. There’s very little known about this emperor, and one of the things with this museum is to really address that … Then we have a second section of this gallery which talks about the personalities that are associated with Nizamuddin.”


Among the famed figures featured in the second gallery are Nizamuddin Auliya and Amir Khusro.
Auliya was an 13th-century Indian Sunni Muslim scholar, Sufi saint of the Chishti Order, and is one of the most famous Sufis from the Indian subcontinent. His shrine and tomb are located near Humayun’s complex.


Khusro was a 13th-century poet and scholar who remains an iconic figure in the culture of the subcontinent.


Both Auliya and Khusro lived during the period of the Delhi Sultanate, which Humayun’s father conquered, leading to its succession by the Mughal empire. The museum shows how the empire did not come to its bloom in a cultural vacuum, but drew from and incorporated the culture of its predecessors.


“There was this idea of pluralism that existed during the Mughal period,” Menon said.
“And this (museum) really captures all of that.”

source: http://www.arabnews.com / Arab News / Home> World / by Sanjay Kumar / July 31st, 2024

Badsha Peer, King of Africa: Seeking India’s Deccan in South African Tales of Indenture

SOUTHERN INDIA / SOUTH AFRICA :

By Nikhil Mandalaparthy. Nikhil is a journalist, community activist, and consultant focused on religious pluralism and social justice in South Asia and North America. He is the curator of Voices of Bhakti, a digital archive that showcases translations of South Asian poetry and art on religion, caste, and gender. He recently served as Deputy Executive Director of Hindus for Human Rights and is currently conducting research as a 2024-25 Luce Scholar.

Editor’s Note: This story was supported by the Pulitzer Center for Crisis Reporting.

___________________________________

kitne pyare hai yeh badshah jis pe hum marte hain
yeh haqeeqat hai tasawwur mein unka deedar karte hain
unka roza hai beshaq maqaam-e-madad
hum ghareeb ki taqdeer ko acche mein badal dete hain

How loving is this Badsha whom we “die” for
The truth is: in our imagination, it’s him we see
Without a doubt, his tomb is the destination for help;
He changes our unfortunate destinies to good.

– Iqbal Sarrang (2002) 
(Translated by Goolam Vahed, with edits

_______________________________

Mazaar of Badsha Peer, Durban, South Africa / Source: Author

In the historic Brook Street cemetery in Durban, South Africa, a gleaming white and gold structure towers over dozens of tombstones. This is the mazaar (tomb) of Sufi saint Badsha Peer. Thousands of miles from his birthplace in southern India, he is said to have found his final resting place here in 1894.

Inside the shrine, an inscription declares that this is “The MAQAAM (Resting Place) Of The King Of Africa – HAZRATH SHAYKH AHMED BADSHA PEER (RA)”.

Visiting Badsha Peer’s shrine challenged much of what I was told about South African Indian identity and history. In my conversations with South African Indians, I was told that most Muslims in the community were Gujarati or Konkani, and that most South Indians were Hindu or Christian. But here I was, at the shrine of a Muslim saint who was also South Indian. I was intrigued—and confused.

Digging deeper, I found that the story of this “King of Africa,” Badsha Peer, is a tale of multiple migrations, across the Deccan, South India, and beyond. His story involves Konkani Muslims and Hyderabadi Sufi teachers traveling to colonial Bombay, and Tamil and Telugu indentured workers making the long and treacherous journey from Madras to South Africa.

Tracing the story of Badsha Peer—and Soofie Saheb, the man who popularized his memory—shines light on how Indian religious, linguistic, and regional identities were transformed in the Deccan and South Africa, during the colonial period and through indenture and migration.

Locating Badsha Peer in History

Pinning down the historical Badsha Peer is difficult. Goolam Vahed, a scholar of South African Indian and Muslim history, describes the saint as having a “sketchy biographical profile and unclear genealogy”.

Ashwin Desai and Goolam Vahed write of a Sheikh Ahmed who arrived from Chittoor (modern-day Andhra Pradesh) or Arni in North Arcot district (modern-day Tamil Nadu) on the first ship from India, the SS Truro, which arrived on November 16, 1860. On the other hand, Nile Green, a historian of Indian Ocean Muslim networks, points to a Sheik Ahmed from Machilipatnam (modern-day Andhra Pradesh) who arrived a month later, in December 1860, on the Lord George Bentinc

Either way, according to oral tradition and popular anecdotes, Badsha Peer is remembered as arriving with the first indentured laborers from India. A man of great spiritual power, he is popular for the miracles he performed on the colonial sugarcane plantations, such as accomplishing his tasks in the fields while simultaneously meditating all day.

According to Nile Green, South African oral traditions declare that he was “released early from his indenture due to ‘insanity’”, which was later given a Sufi interpretation as “spiritual rapture (jazb).” Following his release, he is said to have lived the rest of his life as a faqir (mendicant) around the Grey Street mosque until his death in 1894.

Muslims like Badsha Peer made up about 10 percent of the approximately 152,000 Indians who were brought to South Africa as indentured workers; over 80 percent were Hindu. Around 44 percent of indentured Muslims departed from Madras, and among these workers, over 60 percent came from four areas: Arcot (31 percent), Malabar (14 percent), Madras (11 percent), and Mysore (7 percent).

Indentured Muslims, like Hindus, largely came from marginalized castes. In his shrine, Badsha Peer’s caste is simply listed as “Muslim” and “Mohamedan”, which is how around half of indentured Muslims named their caste according to immigration records.

However, Desai and Vahed mention Badsha Peer’s caste as julaha (weaver). He may have been from the Dudekula community , a Telugu-speaking Muslim caste associated with weaving and cotton cleaning. 

Soofie Saheb and His “Overpowering Influence”

Shrine of Badsha Peer, Durban, South Africa / Source: Author

The reason that Badsha Peer is remembered today is due to the efforts of a non-indentured Indian migrant. This pivotal figure is Shah Ghulam Muhammad (d. 1911), popularly remembered in South Africa as “Soofie Saheb.”

Soofie Saheb was born into a Konkani Muslim family in the town of Ibrahimpatan in Ratnagiri district. The family held a high social status on account of its claim to descend from Abu Bakr, the first caliph of Islam. After studying in Kalyan, he departed for Bombay. Nile Green situates his move within “a much larger migration of Konkani Muslims to the city that had taken place over the previous decades”. 

In the early 1890s, Soofie Saheb became a disciple of Habib ‘Ali Shah (d. 1906), a Sufi teacher of the Chishti order. Habib ‘Ali Shah himself was a migrant from Hyderabad who developed a following primarily among Konkani Muslims in Bombay, particularly workers around the Mazgaon dockyard. In 1895, Soofie Saheb was instructed by his teacher to go to South Africa to spread the message of the Chishti order to the indentured Indian population. 

Soon after arriving in Durban in 1895, Soofie Saheb “encountered a situation of close proximity and mixing between Muslims and the large majority of Hindu laborers,” as anthropologist Thomas Blom Hansen writes . Faced with the fact that “Muslims participated widely in Hindu rituals and festivals”, Soofie Saheb began to promote a more “proper” Islamic identity for indentured Muslims. Similar efforts would soon take place among the Hindu community as well, led by Arya Samaj missionaries like Bhai Parmanand and Swami Shankaranand.

One of the first actions of Soofie Saheb in South Africa was to build a shrine over Badsha Peer’s grave, which he is said to have identified through a dream or vision. Shortly afterwards, in April 1896, he purchased a plot of land on the banks of the Umgeni river, upon which he built a complex that included a mosque, khanqah, madrasa, and Muslim cemetery.

Interestingly, the legal documentation for this purchase was prepared by a young Gujarati lawyer who had arrived in South Africa just a few years prior: Mohandas K. Gandhi. Vahed writes that “Between 1898 and his death in 1911 Soofie Saheb built 11 mosques, madrasas and cemeteries all over Natal.”

Reimagining South Asian Languages and Religions in South Africa

A book published by Soofie Saheb’s madrasa in 1970 includes this quote by a Hindu observer: “there were many Tamil-speaking Muslims who, but for the recitals of the Koran, were by tradition and culture typically South Indian. Soofie Saheb’s mystic personality had an overpowering influence on the Muslim community widely scattered.” (emphasis mine)

This framing positions South Indian and Muslim identities as mutually exclusive, with the suggestion that shifting towards a more explicitly Muslim identity necessitated shifting away from South Indian culture. The framing also implicitly links South Indian and Hindu identities together.

What was the nature of Soofie Saheb’s “overpowering influence” among indentured Muslims in South Africa? As Nile Green has noted, Soofie Saheb promoted the Urdu language as core to Muslim identity, even though few indentured Muslims spoke the language.

Green argues that Soofie Saheb was simply following “specific currents of linguistic change in his own Konkani community in India, in which the use of Urdu spread significantly during the early twentieth century, partly as a result of migration” from the Konkan coast to Bombay. Similar developments had taken place elsewhere in the Deccan, such as the rise of Urdu in Hyderabad State in the 1880s as the prestige language of education and social status. 

Soofie Saheb’s efforts made Badsha Peer the most revered Sufi saint in South Africa. At the same time, he promoted a cosmopolitan, Urdu-centric Muslim identity that likely would have been unfamiliar to Badsha Peer himself, as a Telugu- or Tamil-speaking indentured Muslim.

These shifts were perhaps aided by the fact that in decades following Soofie Saheb’s death in 1911, many South Indian associations in South Africa adopted explicitly Hindu orientations.

For example, a year after the Andhra Maha Sabha of South Africa was formed in 1931, the organization became an affiliate of the South African Hindu Maha Sabha. The Andhra Maha Sabha’s logo is a Telugu-script Om, and the organization’s headquarters in the Indian township of Chatsworth includes an elaborate Venkateswara temple, which was built in 1983.

Thus, on one side, Telugu cultural associations in South Africa defined Telugu and Hindu identities as synonymous, while Muslim leaders like Soofie Saheb consolidated an Urdu-oriented Muslim identity.

South Asian Legacies: Shared Devotion at Badsha Peer’s Shrine

Interior of the Shrine for Badsha Peer / Source: Author

Although Badsha Peer is remembered as coming from Andhra Pradesh or Tamil Nadu, Soofie Saheb’s emphasis on an Urdu-centric Muslim identity means there is little to no visible South Indian influence in the rituals and practices associated with his shrine today.

And yet, despite Soofie Saheb’s activities to consolidate a distinct Muslim identity among indentured Indians, Badsha Peer’s shrine became a site for prayer, pilgrimage, and worship for Indians across regional and religious identities. In a way, his shrine provided a conduit for older South Asian practices of multi-religious devotion, such as reverence for Sufi mazaars and dargahs. 

From the earliest years of the shrine, non-Muslim devotees played a role—Goolam Vahed notes that in 1917, “A corrugated iron structure was erected by a Hindu, Bhaga, around the dome” of the shrine. In 2002, one of the qawwali groups performing at the saint’s urs (death anniversary) was led by a Hindu singer. 

Community archivist Selvan Naidoo, director of the 1860 Heritage Centre, recalls that “In my early childhood days, such was the power of this place that my staunch Tamil mother would often take us there to pray at this great place of indentured reverence.”

This reverence for Badsha Peer continues to this day. Mark Naicker, an interfaith activist in Durban from a Catholic family, shared with me that “sometimes you hear Hindus also go to Badsha Peer … when people have a baby, they would go to that shrine” to seek blessings.

It has been over 160 years since Badsha Peer and the first indentured Indians set foot on South African shores. He is a unique figure in South African Indian history. Unlike most indentured Indians, he was Muslim. Unlike most Indian Muslims in South Africa, he was from southern India. And unlike nearly any other indentured Indian Muslim in South Africa, he is revered as a saint whose power is manifest even to this day. 

Badsha Peer’s story, intertwined with that of Soofie Saheb, provides us with a glimpse into how Indian identities were transformed and reconfigured in South Africa. “Muslim” and “South Indian” identities took increasingly divergent paths. And yet, despite these shifts, his memory lives on, drawing devotees from across religious and regional backgrounds who seek the blessings of this “King of Africa.”

source: http://www.maidaanam.com / Maidaanam / Home / by Nikhil Mandalaparthy / June 17th, 2024

Heritage building being restored

Hyderabad, TELANGANA :

HIGHLIGHTS

Yousuf Tekri is a bungalow built by Syed Yousufuddin Mohammed who was a Subedar during  Nizam rule. This building was a farm house built during 1850’s which later served as a residence for his progeny.

Tolichowki:

This building is now in the list of heritage structures in  Hyderabad and is being restored by the hereditary family Syed Mohammed Aliuddin grandson of Yousufuddin, and his great grandsons Syed Mohammed Najmuddin and Syed Mohammed Mawaheduddin are financing and restoring the building independently.

This building is beautifully constructed uphill, which gives a scenic view of the city which was all farm and isolated landscape, which is now a concrete jungle. Syed Aliuddin said “Yousufuddin was born in the  city of Hyderabad and was appointed as an officer in the revenue services working for Asaf Jah VI, Mahbub Ali Khan. Yousufuddin was later entitled as a Subedar for Gulbarga District”.

The bungalow was built by Yousufuddin as a farmhouse as it was away from city back in those days, surrounding the area of about 290 acres. During land acquisition most of it was acquired by Indian Army and colonies were build, Yousuf Tekri colony is where our family lives. Now we are renovating the structure with plaster and cement, because preparation of lime takes much effort and time.

Syed Mohammed Najmuddin said “We are restoring the building independently there as is no financial aid from the government. In spite of being in the list of the heritage structure, government is taking no initiative”.

source: http://www.thehansindia.com / The Hans India / Home> News> Cities> Hyderabad / by Mayank Tiwari / Abhyudaya Ya Karamchetu / March 05th, 2015

Daria Daulat Bagh – an Incredible Painted Palace

Mysuru, KARNATAKA :

India has one of the greatest traditions of paintings on walls. Called murals or frescos, we see a high level of technical excellence, grace and sublime beauty among Indian murals right from the time of Ajanta.

In 1335 AD, the remarkable city of Vijayanagar or the ‘city of victory’ was established in south-central Karnataka. In no time, the city and the empire became a fertile ground for creativity, thanks to the patronage of its powerful King Krishnadeva Rai. A remarkable style of painting evolved with ideas merging from Deccan, Cholas of Tamil Nadu and Jain tradition. When the Vijayanagar Empire collapsed after the battle of Talikota in mid-16th century many of state artists moved to Serirangapatna, a pristine and sacred land surrounded by Cauvery River on all sides. Here they thrived under the royal patronage of the Mysuru Wodeyers. In 1761 AD, the island became the seat of power of Haider Ali Saheb. He and his son Tipu Sulatan established Mysuru as a vibrant Sultanate and continued to patronage the artisan of Vijayanagar ancestry.

Daria Daulat Bagh is a palace situated in the island near the village Ganjam at Seringapatna. The village is set amidst beautiful gardens. It was built by Tipu Sultan in 1784 as his summer palace.

Built entirely out of teakwood, the architecture of the palace shows remarkable fusion of Deccani, Persian and Rajput styles. The most stunning feature of the palace is that all the space available on the walls, pillars, jharokas and arches have colourful fresco work in the style of Vijayanagar-Mysuru paintings.

On the western wall right to the entrance is depicted the battle scene of second Anglo-Mysore war or the battle of Pollilur. The battle had been fought between Haider-Tipu and the British forces, in which Haider and Tipu combated splendidly and won.

The paintings executed by the artists at the instance of Tipu Sultan where primary aim was to glorify their victory over the British. Colonel Bailley, the defeated British officer was taken to Serirangapatna after his defeat. The battle mural is seen in four different panels portraying Tipu and Haider marching in procession towards Pollilur near Kanchipuram. Tipu is depicted in all finery, himself leading the army towards Pollilur riding a beautiful white horse. Baillie sits in a palanquin as he is wounded and biting his pointing figure – a gesture employed by many to signify defeat in dismay.

The climax of the battle scene depict Baillie’s defeat giving special prominence to the explosion of tumbril and to the consternation of the British square colonel.

On the eastern part of the building there are a number of small frames containing figural motifs, architecture in brilliant composition. The most special is the one where the queen is seen seated on a carpet smoking a hookah. Some of the layouts strongly resemble Rajasthani miniature. The other panels illustrate incidents in the lives of princes, rulers and grandees of Tipu’s contemporary and also includes several rajas defeated by him. There are also neighbouring nawabs and kings including the Hindu Rani of Chittore, Rajas of Tanjore, Benaras, and Balajirao Peshwa II.

Come, lets discover the murals of Daria Daulat Bagh and appreciate the legacy of Tipu Sulatan, a brave son of the soil and perhaps one of the earliest freedom fighters.

YOUTUBE

source: http://www.blogvirasatehind.wordpress.com / September 26th, 2016

Shaykh Abdul Qadir al-Thani and the Hidden Domains of Puratheel

Kannur, KERALA :

Puratheel. Image credit: Prageeth T N

The road unfolded before us like a ribbon, guiding our car through the lush greenery and coconut groves of Kerala. It was the sacred month of Ramadan, and we had embarked on a journey to the enchanting city of Kannur in search of a pious man. The road ahead promised a culturally rich, soul-stirring experience that would leave an indelible mark on our hearts.

We entered the city after a two-hour long drive; the streets bustled with pedestrians, the sound of traffic filled the air, buyers and sellers haggled in the marketplace. Amidst this vibrant chaos, an air of sanctity was palpable; it carried the essence of a bygone era, where the mingling of diverse traditions shaped the city’s identity. Our guide informed us of Kannur’s deep-rooted connections with the Islamic world, which dated back centuries.

Nestled along the coast of the Arabian Sea, Kannur holds a special place in the tapestry of Islamic culture. The arrival of Arab merchants, who had ventured to the Malabar Coast for trade, had a lasting impact on the locals. Legend has it that Islam took root in Kannur even before the arrival of Malik ibn Dinar, who is famously known as the first companion of the Prophet Muhammad ﷺ to arrive in India (though this cannot be verified historically). The tales passed down through generations speak of King Cheraman Perumal, ruler of the Chera kingdom, who was drawn to Islam after witnessing the miracle of the split moon. He embraced Islam, took the name Tajuddin, and ventured to Mecca, where he shed his worldly concerns. His story, engraved in verse on a wooden tablet at the Arakkal Palace, is a testament to the city’s historical connection with Islam.

Over the centuries, Kannur flourished as a centre for Islamic scholarship and culture, particularly Sufism. It became a hub of spiritual seekers, earning the moniker ‘Baghdad of India’. One notable figure in Kannur’s Sufi tradition is Ghawth al-A’zam (the Greatest Helper), Shaykh Abdul Qadir Al-Thani, whose presence lingers in the serene village of Puratheel, just a short distance from Kannur city, and whose grave we were destined to visit that day.

After parking our car near Varam Kadavu Bridge, we were drawn to a nearby river, its cool, sparkling waters beckoning us under the scorching summer sun. Seeking respite from the heat, I cupped my hands and splashed the cool water on my face, feeling rejuvenated in both body and soul. My colleague, who had visited Puratheel before, remarked that this river served as a natural border for the village, fortifying the sacred site with its life-giving waters. It was this very river that earned Puratheel the epithet dweep, or ‘island’. The flowing waters represented a boundary that was not only physical, but also spiritual, separating this land from the rest of the outside world.

Puratheel. Image credit: Salz Graphy

Standing on the river’s edge, engrossed in its serene beauty, I felt a profound sense of peace wash over me. At that moment, I understood why Puratheel was revered as a place of spiritual import. It provided a sanctuary, a space where seekers could disconnect from the outside world and embark on a meaningful journey of self-discovery. Even as we reluctantly left the riverbank, the serenity of that moment remained with us, and we cherished this reminder of the intense connection between nature, spirituality, and the pursuit of inner peace.

As we wandered through the village, faint sounds of devotional music played from afar. Our guide, prayer beads in hand, began to narrate the story of Shaykh Abdul Qadir Al-Thani.

There once lived an extraordinary man in Afghanistan by the name of Shaykh Uthman Hamdani. A Persian ruler and descendent of the esteemed first Caliph, Abu Bakr Al-Siddiq, this Sultan of Hamadan left all his riches behind to go on a quest for truth. He wandered tirelessly across distant lands, his footsteps guided only by his faith and a thirst for spiritual knowledge.

Shaykh Uthman eventually arrived in Valapattanam, a tranquil village in the northern province of Kerala. One night, during his stay in the village, he experienced a vision. This vision promised him that, should he marry on that very night, he would sire a miraculous child. A year later, in the nearby kingdom of Chirakkal, royal astrologers uncovered a celestial secret. They revealed to their king that a child had been born in the Valapattanam province — a child destined to become the greatest of all miraculous beings. They further prophesied that if the King provided protection and support to this child, his kingdom would prosper.

Intrigued by this prophecy, the King of Chirakkal set out to meet the newborn child, who had been named Abdul Qadir. Recognising the infant’s extraordinary potential, the King assumed responsibility for his upbringing, ensuring that he grew into a virtuous and revered figure. As such, the child was brought to the King’s palace at the tender age of five or six, where he continued his spiritual journey surrounded by the kingdom’s grandeur. His princely childhood abruptly ended at the age of sixteen, when his fortuitous encounter with four strangers changed the course of his life forever. 

The strangers had arrived at his family home in a famished state while Abdul Qadir was away at the palace. With his mother’s permission, they slaughtered cattle she had originally set aside for her son, and chopped down a jackfruit tree in front of the house. They cooked their meal, ate, and saved some of the food to be given to Abdul Qadir when he returned. As the strangers departed, the family were astonished to find that both the cattle and jackfruit tree had been miraculously restored to their original state. When Abdul Qadir eventually came home, his mother informed him of their unusual visitors. Realising that these were no ordinary beings, he set off to find them, eventually encountering four people from Bhatkal, Karnataka. Amongst them was the distinguished Sufi shaykh, Mahmoud Al Khabooshani, who bestowed Abdul Qadir with an ijaza in the Suhrawardi tariqa. This was a licence that would formally permit him to instruct his own disciples in the teachings and practices of the Suhrawardi Sufi order. 

Mosque built by the Shaykh himself

Inspired, Shaykh Abdul Qadir abandoned all material pursuits and devoted himself to worship. When the King grew concerned at the Shaykh’s sudden withdrawal from the palace and other worldly affairs, the Shaykh expressed his desire to continue this path, furthermore requesting that the King grant him a portion of the land to be reserved for regular worship and seclusion. The King assented, and named this land ‘Puratheel’. There, the Shaykh built a mosque and established a settlement, fostering a culture of spiritual seclusion and growth. He eventually became known as Abdul Qadir Al-Thani (‘the Second’), as people reverentially associated him with Ghawth al-A’zam Abdul-Qadir Al-Jilani, esteemed scholar and saint of Baghdad. 

Despite my efforts, I found little information about Abdul Qadir Al-Thani in my research. Even in Malayalam, the native language of Kerala, references were scarce. Only in Arabic did I find a single work, entitled The Holy Maulid, by Shaykh Valappil Abdul Azeez Musliyar. Shaykh Abdul Qadir’s obscurity in the digital realm was, to say the least, disappointing. However, as I stepped into the sacred sanctuary of Puratheel, I was astounded to see its pathways abound with visitors, their footfall echoing with purpose and a yearning for the blessings of a shaykh unknown to Allama Google. This was a realm beyond the age of digital information, where human souls longed for a connection unencumbered by the pretensions of media and search engine rankings. I felt an enigmatic current that drew people to a shaykh who, while evading fame and renown in written histories, had claimed his place in living hearts and memories.

Tombs of Shaykh Abd al-Qadir al-Thani’s descendants

With the setting sun, a melodious call to prayer echoed through the misty valleys, summoning the faithful to gather in the sanctum of the mosque. Inside, the golden glow of flickering lanterns danced across the walls, and the congregation united in prayer between them. The rhythmic recitation of sacred Qur’anic verses rose and fell, followed by murmured supplications emanating from each devotee’s lips.

After the Maghrib (sunset) prayer, a serene calm enveloped the community. We had just shared an Iftar meal to end the day’s fast, replenishing both body and soul with food and prayer. However, the night was far from over. At 12.30am, as moonlight filtered through the mosque’s stained glass windows, bathing the prayer hall in its soft glow, the call to prayer would recommence. As the rest of the world slept on, these worshippers would perform the Taraweeh prayer until 2am, a night prayer reserved for the blessed month of Ramadan, followed by more supererogatory prayers and whispered invocations hoping to forge a bond between this earthly realm and the Divine.

Though Muslims the world over perform these rites every Ramadan, Puratheel has its own unique customs. The Qunut, a special supplication, is recited with every prayer except Maghrib. On Mondays, Thursdays, and Fridays after Maghrib, devotees gather for a dhikr halaqa, or gathering of remembrance, chanting the Divine’s sacred names in melodious union. After the Jumu’ah (Friday) prayers, which are led by a descendent of Abdul Qadir Al-Thani, a ritual of repentance takes place; the Shaykh recites words of istighfar, invocations that seek Divine mercy and forgiveness. Believers repeat the Shaykh’s istighfar, and disclose their struggles and shortcomings to a spiritual mentor as a means of guidance, purification, and self-reflection.

As Ramadan nears its end, the anticipation of seeking Allah’s blessing in the final ten nights of the Sacred Month swells, culminating in the sought after ‘Night of Power’, or Lailat ul Qadr. This is the twenty-seventh night of Ramadan, where in Puratheel, the adhan (call to prayer) resounds seven times to herald the Night of Power’s arrival. The mosque transforms into a radiant beacon, drawing the servants of Allah from near and far.

Puratheel Juma Masjid

When the final sun sets on Ramadan, and Eid ushers in the Sacred Month’s end, the Isha (evening) prayer is delayed until 2am to encourage the faithful to immerse themselves in worship until dawn. Although these customs may seem arduous to some, they are embraced with an unwavering devotion in Puratheel, keeping the legacy of the Shaykh alive. In our age of information and instant gratification, Puratheel reminds us that there are still enigmas to unravel, hidden domains waiting to be explored, and extraordinary souls whose influence transcend the virtual realm. True enchantment lies not in its digital presence but in the transformative encounters that await those who embark on this journey with an open heart and a yearning for the Divine.

Before our trip came to its end, our guide led us inside the mausoleum that housed Shaykh Abdul Qadir Al-Thani’s tomb, where he rested adorned in royal green clothing. Mausoleums of his children, grandchildren, other family members, and companions abound, both in Puratheel and all throughout India.

As we left Puratheel, a sense of tranquillity washed over me, dispelling, for the moment at least, all of life’s uncertainties. I felt that an inner peace had permeated my being, reminding me that we are never truly alone. For a moment, the world stood still and breathless, before exhaling a gentle breeze that brushed against me. I felt tears spring to my eyes, and wondered if nature possessed its own soul.

I left marvelling at the interconnectedness of the human spirit and the natural world. With the wind divulging its secrets and the land preserving ancestral tales, our souls are inextricably tied to that of nature’s. Through timeless bonds, we find solace, guidance, and an earnest understanding of our place in the cosmos. I journeyed forward, guided by whispers of the unseen, embracing the beauty and mystery bestowed upon us by nature.

Edited by Asma

source: http://www.sacredfootsteps.com / SacredFootsteps.com / Home>Asia> India / by Swalih Kuzhinholam / edited by Asma

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Swalih Kuzhinholam

Swalih is a writer, Islamic tutor, and cultural explorer based in Kerala, India. He is a graduate of Darul Huda Islamic University in Chemmad, and a former Associate Editor at Thelitcham monthly magazine. His interests lie in culture, society, Sufism, aesthetics, literature and the arts.

Gujarat’s Forgotten Islamic History

GUJARAT :

Islam in India is often portrayed as a byproduct of the 16th century Persian Mughal Empire; but if you look past the Taj Mahal and Jama Masjid of Agra and Delhi, you find that Islam’s roots actually run far deeper in other parts of the country.

The claim that the Mughal Empire is responsible for the spread of Islam in the subcontinent, is often made by far-right (Hindu or Indian) nationalists, and has contributed to the common misconceptions that Islam is a recent phenomenon in South Asia, and that it spread from the north of the country to the south. However, evidence suggests that the religion first reached the shores of the Gujarati-Konkan and Malabar coasts (in the south) almost a thousand years earlier, in the 7th century, through trade in the Indian Ocean with East African and Arab merchants.

One of the oldest mosques in the world, Cherman Juma Mosque, is thought to have been built in Kerala, in the south of the country, in 629 AD, and a few years later the Palaiya Jumma Palli Masjid was built in Tamil Nadu.1 Ibn Battuta, who travelled throughout the Islamicate, even worked as Qadi (judge) in the Delhi sultanate in the 14th century, before his disastrous shipwreck.2 

In this article, I want to concentrate on a part of India that is often overlooked in discussions of Islam: Gujarat. 

A brief history  

Sitting on the Arabian Sea, Gujarat is the most western state of India. Centuries of migration have seen it become a cosmopolitan melting pot. The state’s diverse religious and ethno-linguistic communities are reflected in both Gujarati architecture and the Gujarati language, which is interlaced with Persian, Arabic, Swahili and Sanskrit. Gujaratis, well-known for their influence in trade and business, were prime merchants in the Indian ocean in the centuries prior to the emergence of the East India company. It has also been argued that the lack of written Gujarati sources was due to Gujarati merchants not wanting outsiders to access this exclusive language of trade.3

Handmade ships being built at the timber shipyard, Mandvi, Gujarat. Copyright Sasha Patel. All rights reserved.

Yemeni shipbuilders, Zoroastrian Parsi’s (who fled Iran due to religious persecution in the 8th century), and Ismaili Shias, are just some of the many groups that have settled in Gujarat, and influenced its culture for centuries. In the 10th century, Ibn Hawqal, Muslim Arab geographer and chronicler, even observed mosques in four cities of Gujarat that had Hindu kings, namely, Cambay, Kutch, Saymur and Patan.4

Tensions 

In the decades since partition, and in recent years, communal tensions and violence have flared up periodically in Gujarat. Since 1950, over 10,000 people have been killed in Muslim-Hindu communal violence5 with horrific events such as the Bombay riots (1992) and Gujarat riots (2002)6 still heavily imprinted in recent memory. The cause of the unrest is often attributed to the multitude of diverse communities living in close proximity; however, this is a gross simplification that ignores the role of colonialism in instigating communal violence7 by emphasising religious difference.8 Though no one is suggesting that religious tensions didn’t exist in pre-colonial times, scholars have argued that the lines of religious practise were often blurred (as we shall see). 

This colonial legacy, alongside increased saffronisation of the Indian government9 and increased Hindutva mobilisation, has led to Muslim minority groups being attacked as “outsiders” or “invaders” to support the idea of a ‘Hindu Rashtra(nation)’.10 This ideology tries to omit the centuries long existence and contribution of Muslims within Gujarat and the Indian subcontinent.

Though there are no doubt numerous means by which this contribution can be demonstrated (i.e. social, lingual, economic, culinary (for example did you know that biryani is not actually Indian in roots but was introduced by immigrants from Iran?), here I will concentrate primarily on architectural, since in recent years, right-wing hardliners have sought to politicise monuments by calling into question their ‘true’ antecedents.11 As I will show, there are a number of Islamic monuments within Gujarat that reflect the presence of Islam and contribution of Muslims in India before, during and after the reign of the Mughals. 

Chamapaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park

Forty-seven kilometres outside the city of Baroda in Gujarat, is the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, a UNESCO world-heritage site, the oldest parts of which were built in the 8th century. Champaner is the 16th century historical city at the centre of the site built by sultan Mahmud Begada of Gujarat. The forts on the hills of Pavagadh surround Champaner. Once the capital of the Gujarat sultanate, before it was moved to Ahmedabad, the site features intricately designed palaces, masjids, mandirs, stepwells and much more. Champaner-Pavagadh is the only complete and unchanged Islamic pre-Mughal city in India, highlighting its historical significance.

Mosque at Champaner. Image CC: Olivier & Pascale Noaillon Jaquet via Flickr.

A fusion of both perceived Islamic and Hindu architecture, in its domes and arches, this site encapsulates the historical context of India prior to imperial rule: cultures defined by regions which incorporated significant aspects of all religions.12

Champaner-Pavagadh today is a pilgrimage destination for Hindus, Muslims and members of other religions, demonstrating how blurred the lines of religion once were in India’s pre-colonial past.  

Hazira Maqbara

Away from the dusty hustle and bustle of the purana shehr, or old town, lies the Hazira Maqbara.It serves as a good example of how Islamic monuments in Gujarat are given little recognition and often overlooked completely. 

Hazira Maqbara

Built in 1586, the monument contains the tomb of Qutubuddin Muhammad Khan, who was the tutor of Jahangir, the son and successor of Akbar. The significance of the mausoleum, as belonging to the teacher of one of the most famous Mughal emperors of all, is barely acknowledged in Gujarati history, let alone recognised in travel guides. For me, the tomb and its surrounding gardens offered a serene experience, that could be described as an ode to the education provided by Qutubuddin Muhammad Khan to the emperor in his lifetime.  

Inside Hazira Maqbara

The mausoleum now seems to be looked after by members of the Ismaili Shia community of Baroda. While visiting, the two men who were acting as ‘guards’ were eager to show us around, perhaps a reflection of the lack of visitors received by this hidden charm of the city. It’s almost ironic that the Hazira Maqbara, a Mughal monument, is even forgotten by the groups who over-emphasise the role of the Mughals in bringing Islam to India.

Laxmi Villas Palace 

Laxmi Villas is the former palace of the Gaekwads of Baroda. The Hindu Gaekwad dynasty ruled the princely state of Baroda from the early 18th century until 1945. Under the rule of Sayajirao Gaekwad III (1875-1939), Baroda was seen as one of the most socially progressive states in India. 

PIX07

Built in 1890, Laxmi Villas embodies the elegant and ostentatious Indo-Saracenic style- a style that was ‘developed’ by colonial architects to combine elements of both Indo-Islamic and ‘traditional’ Indian architecture. The elaborate decoration of the palace leaves no detail untouched; the intricate floral designs on all the arched window frames, mosaics sparkling in gold, and the magnificent Darbar and Hathi(elephant) halls are just some of the delights this palace holds. It also includes gardens designed by William Goldring, a specialist for Kew Gardens, and a miniature train which encircles a mango orchard. Laxmi Villas Palace is an important representation of India’s elite within the context of it’s colonial past, and its inclusion of Islamic elements is significant, in that it acknowledges the presence and contribution of Islam in Gujarat. 

Three different sites, eras and locales; each in its own way represents the long-standing presence of Islam within Gujarat. The lazy attribution of Islam to the Mughals, and the limiting of its contribution in India to the Taj Mahal (though, bizarrely, even this is being challenged), is not difficult to refute- and when invented histories and political narratives (which often politicise monuments) are being used to challenge the rights and existence of minority communities, it must be refuted. In Gujarat, monuments such as Champaner-Pavagadh demonstrate the existence of Islam in India prior to Mughal rule, and the architecture of Laxmi Viilas Palace represents its influence and contribution more than a thousand years since it arrived on the shores of the Indian Ocean.

Footnotes

1 http://tamilnadu-favtourism.blogspot.co.uk/2016/08/palaiya-jumma-palli-kilakarai.html and http://www.heritageonline.in/kilakarai-the-oldest-mosque-in-india/

2 Dunn, Ross E. (2005), The Adventures of Ibn Battuta, University of California Press, p. 245.

3 Riho Isaka, ‘Gujarati Elites and the Construction of a Regional Identity in the Late Nineteenth Century’, in C. Bates (ed.), Beyond Representation.

4 Wink, André (1990). Al-Hind, the making of the Indo-Islamic world (2. ed., amended. ed.). Leiden: E.J. Brill.

5 ʻAbd Allāh Aḥmad Naʻīm (2008). Islam and the Secular State: Negotiating the Future of Shari`a. Harvard University Press. p. 161.

Varadarajan, Siddharth. Gujarat, the making of a tragedy. New Delhi: Penguin Books, 2002.

7 Cohn, B., ‘The Census, Social Structure and Objectification in South Asia’, in B. Cohn (ed.), An Anthropologist Among the Historians (1987).

8 Bayly, C. A. “The Pre-History of ‘Communalism’? Religious Conflict in India, 1700-1860.” Modern Asian Studies 19, no. 2 (1985): p. 177-203.

9 http://www.scmp.com/week-asia/politics/article/2100513/modis-party-stokes-anti-muslim-violence-india-report-says

10 Sumit Sarkar, ‘Indian Nationalism and the Politics of Hindutva’. in Ludden, David (ed.), Contesting the Nation: Religion, Community and the Politics of Democracy in India 

11 Bhattacharya, Neeladri, ‘Myth, History and the Politics of Ramjanmabhumi’, in S. Gopal (ed.), Anatomy of a Confrontation: The Babri Masjid-Ram Janmabhumi Issue. (further reading)

12 Metcalf, T. R., 1994. Ideologies of the Raj. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

source: source: http://www.sacredfootsteps.com / Sacred Footsteps.com / Home> Asia / by Sasja Sasha Patel

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Sasha Patel

Currently studying History & South Asian Studies (Hindi) at SOAS. Passionate about using the power of history to challenge current political narratives in regards to race & gender. Classical musician who loves reading postcolonial literature & visiting exhibitions. Best travel moment? Journeying through rural Gujarat to the White Salt Desert/ Rann of Kutch, India.

UAE travel group launches Alhind Air – A ‘low-cost airline’ for Indian expats

Kozhikode (Calicut), KERALA / U.A.E :

The group is looking to tap the fast-expanding air traffic between India and the Gulf.

Kerala-based travel service operator Alhind Group with a strong presence in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) is set to launch its airline, aiming to provide economical air travel options for residents.

The group, which has been a significant player in the travel industry for over three decades, has received the Civil Aviation Ministry’s initial nod to start an airline — Alhind Air.

The chairman, Mohammad Haris announced that the Group is in the final stages of obtaining the required approvals.

“Last week, we had a meeting with officials at the Cochin International Airport Limited (CIAL); we submitted all documents required for landing permission at the airport,” he said. “We had earlier received the no objection certificate (NOC) to start the airline. We are hoping to begin operations by January 2025, if not earlier,” said Haris as quoted by Khaleej Times.

Initial operations and fleet

According to the reports, Alhind Air will start its initial operations with three Atr-72 turboprop aircraft, focusing on regional routes in southern India, including connections between Cochin, Bengaluru, Thiruvananthapuram and Chennai with an initial investment of ₹200 crores to ₹500 crores as it adds more planes into the fleet.

“We will have five ATR planes in total to fly on regional routes. We have secured all support from Cochin International Airport for our operations. Once this process is completed, the exercise for hiring pilots, cabin crew, engineers and other ground staff will start, a top official of the group told CNBC-TV18.

The group’s promoter revealed that the Alhind Group offers services including air ticketing, holiday packages, Haj-Umrah services, visas, and money exchange. The group already boasts a turnover of ₹20,000 crore and has a robust sales network that could facilitate the successful launch of the airline.

Pertinently, Alhind Group is one of the leading players in the travel and tourism industry in India and abroad.

The strategic launch into the aviation sector is anticipated to enhance completion, potentially lowering airfares and improving service quality for travellers.

Mohammad Haris stated that the group which is also the General Sales Agent (GSA) for many airlines is looking to tap the fast-expanding air traffic between India and the Gulf.

source: http://www.siasat.com / The Siasat Daily / Home> News> India / by Sayima Ahmad , (Headline edited) / August 22nd, 2024

Heritage walks uncover new angles of Indian history

DELHI :

Historians and enthusiasts are taking public education into their own hands to tell the story of the country’s Muslim communities.

Chaotic narrow lanes lined with opulent old mansions, shops selling spices, dried fruits and kebabs, all overhung by dangling power cables – any trip to Old Delhi, a bustling Muslim hub built by Mughal ruler Shah Jahan, is a full sensory experience.

Abu Sufyan weaves through the crowd with about 20 people in tow, making his way through streets smelling of flatbread soaked in ghee, the call to prayer at a nearby mosque mingling with the bells of a Hindu temple.

He is on a mission to change negative perceptions of Muslims by showing visitors more of their history in the capital.

“People in old Delhi were labelled as ‘terrorists’ and ‘pickpockets’ because they were predominantly Muslims from the lower economic background, and Mughal rulers were vilified as cruel invaders, as they were considered the ancestors to Indian Muslims,” Abu Sufyan, 29, says.

“My walks involve the local community members including calligraphers, pigeon racers, cooks and weavers with ancestral links in the Mughal era to showcase old Delhi’s heritage beyond these stereotypes.”

Abu Sufyan is one of a growing crop of enterprising men and women using the medium of heritage walks to educate the Indian public and tourists on the nation’s lesser-known history.

He started his walks in 2016, when hatred against Muslim communities was on the rise after Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s ruling Bharatiya Janata Party introduced several anti-Muslim policies.

In 2015, a BJP politician urged the local civic body in Delhi to change the name of Aurangzeb Road to APJ Abdul Kalam Road. The civic body immediately obliged, removing the reference to the Mughal ruler from the road by naming it after the former president of India, who was always considered a “patriotic” Muslim.

Later, the 2019 Citizenship (Amendment) Act caused further division, as critics said it could be weaponised against Muslims, who are designated as “foreigners” under the National Register of Citizens.

Occasionally, divisions lead to violence: Thirty-six Muslims were killed in Hindu mob attacks for allegedly trading cattle or consuming beef between May 2015 and December 2018, according to Human Rights Watch.

‘A sense of belonging and togetherness’

Over 2,000 kilometres away in Chennai, documentary filmmaker Kombai S Anwar hosts walks in Triplicane to tell stories of Tamil Muslim history, Tamil Nadu’s pre-Islamic maritime trade links with West Asia, the arrival of Arab traders, Mughal emperor Aurangzeb’s rule, the appointment of a Mughal minister’s son Zulfikhar Ali Khan as the first Nawab of Arcot, and the lives of the subsequent nawab’s descendants.

“Predominantly, non-Muslims participate in these walks because they are ‘curious’ about local Muslims and their heritage. During [Ramadan], they are invited to the historic Nawab Walaja mosque, where they experience the breaking of fast and partake in the iftar meal,” Mr Anwar says.

Tickets for heritage walks across India range between 200 and 5,000 Indian rupees ($2-60).

Historian Narayani Gupta, who conducted heritage walks in Delhi between 1984-1997, said any controversy related to history generates more interest.

“Whether history is right or wrong or good or bad, it has to be backed by research findings,” she said

Saima Jafari, 28, a project manager at an IT firm, who has attended more than 30 heritage walks in the past five years, says it is hard to ignore the historical monuments in the city since they are almost everywhere.

Delhi-based Ms Jafari recalled one of her best experiences was a walk, in 2021, trailing the path of “Phool Waalon Ki Sair”, an annual procession of Delhi florists, who provide sheets of flowers and floral fans at the shrine of Sufi saint Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki and floral fans and a canopy at the ancient Hindu temple of Devi Yogmaya in Mehrauli.

“When I walked along with others in that heritage walk, I realised that heritage enthusiasts across religion walk together in harmony,” Ms Jafari says.

“One of the best parts of heritage walks is the storytelling that connects places with lives of people of a certain period. Plus, it always gives a sense of belonging and togetherness.”

Anoushka Jain, 28, a postgraduate in history and founder of heritage and research organisation Enroute Indian History, which holds walks to explore the erstwhile “kothas (brothels),” and “attariyas (terraces)” of old Delhi, said during pandemic lockdowns, posts on Instagram helped sparked interest.

“Before the pandemic, barely 40 people participated in two weekly walks as opposed to 50 in each of the four weekly walks which we conduct now,” she says.

But it is not all smooth sailing.

Ms Jain says some people feel uncomfortable when they are given historical facts and research that show Hindu and Jain temples constructed by Rajput rulers were repurposed during the rule of Delhi Sultanate, Qutb ud-Din Aibak.

Iftekhar Ahsan, 41, chief executive of Calcutta Walks and Calcutta Bungalow, adds that sometimes, participants come with preconceived notions that Muslims “destroyed” India for more 1,000 years – but walk leaders hold open conversations to “cut through the clutter” with authentic information.

For some, heritage walks often change perceptions.

“Until I visited mosques in old Delhi during a walk, I didn’t know that women were allowed inside mosques,” law student Sandhya Jain told The National.

But history enthusiast Sohail Hashmi, who started leading heritage walks in Delhi 16 years ago, cautions that some walk leaders present popular tales as historical fact.

A mansion called Khazanchi ki Haveli in old Delhi’s Dariba Kalan is presented as the Palace of the Treasurer of the Mughals by some walk leaders, Mr Hashmi says. The Mughals, however, were virtual pensioners of the Marathas – Marathi-speaking warrior group mostly from what is now the western state of Maharashtra – and later the British and had no treasures left by the time the mansion was built in the late 18th or early 19th century.

Another walk leader had photo-copied an 1850 map of Shahjahanabad, now old Delhi, passing it off as his own research, he adds.

“The walk leaders must be well-read and responsible enough to ensure that the myths are debunked,” Mr Hashmi says.

source: http://www.thenationalnews.com / The National / Home> International Edition> World> Asia / by Sonia Sarkar / June 01st, 2023

Assam highway tomb of freedom fighter Baga Maulvi is shrine of harmony

Marai Village, Siphajr (Darang District) , ASSAM :

Inside the shrine of Baga Baba

As National Highway-15 traverses through the village Marai of the Darang district in northern Assam, travellers see a shrine that commands the devotion and reverence of both Hindus and Muslims.

This is the shrine of Baba Baga which is visited by people of all faiths, and is especially popular among travelers who have taken the NH-15. Trucks and buses that come from far and wide stop here to offer prayers and make donations. All passenger buses and goods trucks stop here as the shrine management has kept drinking water available.

Baga Baba was born as Abdul Khaleque. He came to Assam in 1916 from the then Sylhet district (now in Bangladesh). Initially, he lived in Gog, Satsali, and Badalguri and finally settled down in Marai village of Sipajhar in 1919.

The shrine of Baga Baba in village Marai 

From there, he launched his mission of spreading Islam in the greater Darang district.  The Sufi cleric also joined the Indian freedom movement; he was also jailed.

Baga Baba died in 1933 and the locals raised a mausoleum (mazar) on his grave.

Speaking with Awaz-The Voice, Hafiz Ali, secretary of Baga Baba Mazar, said: “The cleric lit the torch of Islam here. Along with preaching the religion, he also spread the message of peace, harmony, and brotherhood. Then he sent Maulana Didaruddin Saheb to be educated as a maulana. Everybody believes Baga Baba to be an Auliya (master of some divine power) of Allah. Hindus and Muslims alike come here and pray.

“At present, people from all over Assam and India who travel through this highway donate at this mazar. Today the village has nine mosques. The inflow of people and pilgrims has increased over the years. Hindus and Muslims have equally contributed to it.

Drinking water facility at the shrine for travellers

The construction work of the mazar was initiated by former president Jiban Baruah. There are still many non-Muslims, such as Bhumidhar Saharia, Himanshu Kalita, and others, in the management committee of the Mazar,” he said.

The shrine hosts Milad sharif every Thursday of the week. In addition, a Urs is held every year on 12 of Magh (late January), the death anniversary of Baga Baba. People from different parts of India participate in the Urs. Although the Baga Baba Mazar is located on the northern side of NH 15, there is also a premises of the Mazar on the southern side of the road.

It is worth mentioning that the Baga Baba Mazar has played a significant role in maintaining Hindu-Muslim unity and harmony in the entire Darang district as well as in the greater Marai Bijulibari area.

source: http://www.awazthevoice.in / Awaz, The Voice / Home> Story / by Ariful Islam, Sipajhar / June 25th, 2024