Imaginative cuisine, stylish wardrobes, magnificent palaces, and an opulent lifestyle. These are just a few things that the Nizams of Hyderabad are known for. Well, there’s one more thing: spectacular jewelry.
Most people already know that the last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan was one of the wealthiest men in the history of the world. So, it comes as no surprise that he owned a fabulous collection of jewelry – diamonds, gold ornaments, and precious stones.
Almost all this collection was purchased by the Government of India, which arranges its exhibition from time to time.
However, the most fitting exhibition of the Nizam’s jewelry occurs, albeit unwittingly, when Queen Elizabeth II, the Queen of the United Kingdom, wears the spectacular Cartier diamond necklace. It was gifted to her by the 7th Nizam on the occasion of her wedding to Prince Philip of Greece and Denmark on 20th November 1947. He had also gifted her the “Hyderabad Tiara” which had a design based on English roses with 3 detachable floral brooches, all made of diamonds and set in platinum.
The aptly named Nizam of Hyderabad Necklace is also a floral piece made of diamonds that are set in platinum.
The British art historian, Hugh Roberts who authored the best-selling book “The Queen’s Diamonds”, describes it in his book as: “The pavé-set centre with detachable double-drop pendant incorporating 13 emerald-cut diamonds and a pear-shaped drop; the chain of 38 brilliant-cut open-back collets with an elongated oval brilliant-set snap”.
The Nizam, in his generosity, reportedly instructed Cartier to let the bride (then Princess Elizabeth) choose whatever she desired from their collection. The princess then chose the necklace and the matching floral tiara. She is not its first owner, however. Cartier made the necklace in 1935, sold it and then reacquired it from the first buyer in 1936. One of its earliest pictures is of Elfrida Greville, the Countess of Warwick who wore it for a portrait in the 1930s.
But the piece has remained a mainstay in the Queen’s jewelry collection. It appears to be one of her favorites as she has worn it on many official engagements, for instance on her first ever trip to Washington in October 1951 where she met President Harry Truman. She can also be seen posing in it for official portraits that would be used on currency bills like the Bahamas Dollar. She still wears it on important occasions.
Of late there has been a renewed interest in the necklace among jewelry enthusiasts when the Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton was photographed wearing it on at least two occasions. It was lent to her by the Queen as the duchess is her grand daughter-in-law due to her husband Prince William. It may now be safely assumed that the necklace has passed on from being a personal wedding present to a family heirloom and will adorn the subsequent generations of British royalty.
Dr Mohammed Najeeb Shahzore
Dr Mohammed Najeeb Shahzore is a specialist physician based in Kuwait with an interest in Hyderabad’s history & culture.
source: http://www.siasat.com / The Siasat Daily / Home> News> Hyderabad / by Dr. Mohammed Najeeb Shahzore / September 26th, 2021
The Delhi Youth Welfare Association works for the upliftment of underprivileged children in Old Delhi through many initiatives, including its Hazrat Shah Walliulah Public Library.
DYWA team with Capt Zoya and Heena Sodhi
On a hot Wednesday afternoon in June, Laxmi (14) and Ritika (11), residents of the walled city, braved the heat as they made their way through the crowded lanes of Old Delhi to arrive at a cramped quarter in Churiwalan, Jama Masjid. The dated signage and dilapidated environs may have served to put them off their mission, but they persevered. After all, they had it on the best possible authority––of their own older sister––that this was where they would receive school textbooks for the upcoming academic year.
These hardworking sisters are a few of the many girls and boys lining up outside the doors of the unassuming Hazrat Shah Waliullah Public Library, which distributes course books for children once a year, free of cost, to support them in their pursuit of education despite financial and other constraints.
In 1987, in the wake of curfew following religious tensions in Old Delhi, a group of young friends turned their energies towards the upliftment of destitute locals.
The library
They began by distributing rations, medicines, and scholarships to deserving widows and others in need, under the banner of the Delhi Youth Welfare Association (DYWA); but felt this action, though noble, did not make the desired difference to ground realities. Illiteracy due to poor financial conditions and the resultant lack of resources was a chronic problem that needed their immediate attention. Hence, they started sponsoring the education of deserving children, and opened the Hazrat Shah Waliullah Public Library, sometime in the 90s.
Muhammad Naeem, the President of the DYWA, has been associated with the organisation from the beginning. Narrating an incident that summarises the need for their organisation, he says, “Financial conditions are bad for the locals here. As soon as they clear their ninth standard exams, they want to move to Open University instead of going to school, so they can work and earn money. This is true for both boys and girls.”
Amidst this, the Hazrat Shah Waliullah Library strives to encourage a love of reading and learning–– an art that is swiftly being sidelined. SM Changezi, the General Secretary of DYWA and custodian of the library, wears his royal ascendancy from Chengez Khan with pride. However, he only displays it to the world through his passion for beautiful and rare old books.
The library’s vast collection includes a 100-year-old Quran with every page written in a different style, a copy of an illustrated Ramayana in Persian, and even one of the last copies of Bahadur Shah Zafar’s poetry, printed and sealed in the royal press while he was still in power.
About 50 percent of the books in the library are donated by locals who support the organisation, and the remaining are bought from the organisation’s funds.
With the increasing number of books, the association is now planning to open a second library in Haryana’s Nuh to cater to the local slums in the area. Apart from free course books, the DYWA sponsors the education of around 30 girls. To this effect, the DYWA collects and pays Rs 2.5-3 lakh per annum towards children’s fees, all from donations made by people who believe in the cause.
Other initiatives include inviting celebrated personalities originally from this area to speak to the children about making a success of their life. This happened recently when Air India pilot and social activist Captain Zoya Agarwal and Heena Sodhi Khera of women’s networking platform Queen’s Brigade, met the children for their course distribution ceremony.
Khera explains, “Capt Zoya shared her own experiences of being judged for her big ambitions. Yet, she achieved what she wanted and encouraged the kids to do so as well. The children were ecstatic and listened to her with rapt attention.”
source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> Good News / by Noor Anand Chawla / June 24th, 2022
The Centre has resumed the hunt for a 12 kg gold coin which has been missing for almost four decades.Touted as the world’s biggest gold coin, it was last seen in hands of titular Nizam VIII of Hyderabad, Mukarram Jah.
Reportedly, he had auctioned the coin at the Swiss Bank. However, India’s CBI couldn’t get hold of the gold coin that was passed to Jah through his grandfather and last Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osman Ali Khan.
The last Nizam had taken over the coin which was devised by emperor Jahangir. Renowned historian Prof Salma Ahmed Farooqui of HK sherwani Centre for Deccan Studies, Maulana Azad National Urdu University, conducted research on the history and legacy of the world’s biggest gold coin and said it was invaluable to Hyderabad’s pride. At present, the coin hunt has begun after 35 years.
In 1987, when Indian officials in Europe alerted the central government about auctioneer Habsburg Feldman SA auctioning the 11,935.8 gm gold coin in Geneva at Hotel Moga on November 9 through Paris-based Indosuez Bank’s Geneva branch, CBI came into the picture. Investigations started and much information was unearthed,” Prof Salma was quoted by TOI.
She further stated that the CBI played the role of historians while searching for the huge coin but later the search was left hanging as the officials’ didn’t return to the office.
In a book written by former joint director of CBI, Shantonu Sen said that officials discovered that Jahangir has printed two similar coins. One was given to the ambassador of the Shah of Iran, Yadgir Ali and the other was in control of the Nizams.
An FIR was registered under the Antique and Art Treasures Act 1972 by a superintendent rank officer In 1987, said Prof Salma. She said, “Further investigations revealed Mukarram Jah was trying to auction two gold mohurs in 1987 at the Swiss auction, one of which was supposedly the 1,000 tola coin. It was valued at $16million in 1987.”
Since many years have gone by and nobody has information related to the big gold coin minted by Jahangir, Salma hopes that new efforts by the Centre may bring positive results this time.
source: http://www.siasat.com / The Siasat Daily / Home> News> Hyderabad / posted by Umm E Maria / June 27th, 2022
The Hyderabad currency comprised 40,000 pieces of 100 Halli Sikka (HS), 1,00,000 pieces of 10 HS, and 25,000 pieces of of 5 HS, totalling 1,65,000 pieces
After the ocean liner, SS Egypt , sank in the Celtic Sea on May 20, 1922, the events that unfolded over the next 17 years forced the Nizam VII, Mir Osman Ali Khan, to shift the printing of Hyderabad currency from England to Nashik.
On this day (May 19) 100 years ago, SS Egypt owned by The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company, England, left Tilbury docks in London for Bombay (Mumbai). It had 44 passengers and 294 crew members, besides a large shipment of gold and silver and 1. 6 lakh pieces of Hyderabad currency, which had a face value of Rs 51,25,000.
The next day (on May 20, 1922), the ship collided with a French cargo ship and sank off Ushant in France. The Hyderabad currency shipped by Waterlow and Sons to the princely state of Hyderabad too went down into the sea. The treasure was salvaged a decade later in 1932, only to trigger a prolonged legal tussle.
“The Hyderabad currency comprised 40,000 pieces of Rs 100 Halli Sikka (HS), 1,00,000 pieces of Rs 10 HS, and 25,000 pieces of Rs 5 HS, totalling 1,65,000 pieces. The face value was Rs 51,25,000,” eminent numismatist and heritage expert . Amarbir Singh told TOI, adding that since the currency notes were unsigned, they did not legally carry value.
“In those days, the finance member’s signature was over-printed in Hyderabad after the notes arrived from England. Hence, the currency that sank with SS Egypt was valueless. For this reason, they were insured for their printed value of £2,000,” Amarbir said.
Stating that few of the notes salvaged had made their way to Hyderabad, resulting in a spate of legal fights, Amarbir said the issue was closed 17 years after the notes were printed which entailed seven years of negotiation and litigation.
“The government of Hyderabad decided it would be safer to print currency in India. The outbreak of World War II shortly after proved it was indeed a wise decision,” Amarbir said, explaining how the princely state changed location of currency printing from England to India.
The Hyderabad government requested Waterlow to destroy the notes and ordered a replacement stock from the printers, with the same series repeated, but in a slightly different type of font used in the serial number to indicate the difference. These were received and duly circulated, and the matter was regarded as closed, he said.
source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Hyderabad> News> City News> Hyderabad News / by Syed Akbar, TNN / May 19th, 2022
Samajwadi Party leader Azam Khan is greeted by supporters after his release from jail in Sitapur on May 20, 2022. | Photo Credit: PTI
Supreme Court had invoked Article 142 to grant him interim bail
The Uttar Pradesh police’s efforts to keep Samajwadi Party stalwart Mohd Azam Khan in custody were interrupted as the SP leader walked out of the Sitapur Jail on Friday after more than two years in custody.
While invoking its powers under Article 142 of the Constitution of India to grant him the relief, the Supreme Court had outlined the circumstances under which Khan was implicated in the 88th FIR against him.
To begin with, the court noted that even though this FIR was registered in March 2020 and a charge sheet filed, the U.P. police did not consider implicating Khan in the said case until the Supreme Court started hearing his case this year.
Moreover, the court also noted that while opposing interim bail to Khan in this case, the police had alleged that he had threatened the investigating officer of the case. However, it also pointed out the “sheer coincidence” in the timing of this threat, which was registered by the police as a General Diary entry at 3:04 a.m. on May 17, only hours before the top court was to hear the matter.
Noting that Khan was implicated in this case 1 year and 7 months after a charge sheet had been filed, the court said, “It is not as if that the allegations which are now sought to be made against the petitioner (Khan) could not have been made at that point of time.”
When Khan had approached the Supreme Court earlier this year, there were 87 criminal cases pending against him, of which he had secured bail in 84. As the top court started hearing his plea regarding the delay in bail being granted in the remaining three cases, he was further granted bail in two of them, leaving just one more case for him to get relief in as of the beginning of May.
It was at this point that the U.P. police acted to implicate Khan in the 88th case, where he was not an accused or suspect till May 5, when the police first requested to summon him in the case. As the Supreme Court was told on May 6 that the Allahabad High Court would soon deliver its judgement in the last remaining case, the Additional Chief Judicial Magistrate (Rampur) on the same day passed an order remanding Khan in custody in the 88th case.
While hearing Khan’s case last week, the Supreme Court had also noted a pattern in the police action against him, orally pointing out that the 9-time SP MLA was being arrested in a fresh case every time he was granted bail in a previous one to prolong his incarceration.
Khan, once among the most powerful ministers in the SP-led U.P. government, faced a barrage of FIRs soon after the Bharatiya Janata Party came to power in 2017, the first of which came on allegations of forging his son’s birth documents. The bulk of the FIRs (81 out of a total 88) then came in 2019, immediately before and after the Lok Sabha elections that year, all in quick succession.
As per the most recent election filing in 2022, charges have been framed against Khan in just 14 of the 88 cases.
Therefore, considering that he had been granted bail in 87 cases and the circumstances under which he was implicated in the 88th case, the Supreme Court invoked its power under Article 142 for the second time in two days to grant interim bail to him.
The top court had just a day before invoked the same powers to free Rajiv Gandhi-assassination convict A.G. Perarivalan.
Article 142 gives the Supreme Court sweeping powers to pass any such orders or decrees as it may deem fit in the interest of ensuring that “complete justice” is done in any cause or matter pending before it.
These powers are rarely invoked by the court and it has done so notably in its Ayodhya-Ram Janmabhoomi land dispute judgement in 2019, in 1989 while asking Union Carbide to pay $470 million in compensation to Bhopal gas tragedy victims, and in 2016 while banning the sale of liquor within 500 metres of state and national highways in a bid to curb driving accidents.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> News> National> Other States / by Abhinay Lakshman / New Delhi – May 20th, 2022
In a believe-it-or-not type of story, a ‘heritage’ house in Lucknow owned by a descendant of the erstwhile Nawabs, who once ruled the region, preserves an ambience that may have prevailed in many royal households centuries ago.
A visit to Syed Masoom Raza’s family house, Saltanat Manzil, near City Station, located in a sprawling one acre campus, is like stepping into a time machine and getting transported to a bygone era.
This house boasts of a 55-feet tall clock tower, and a drawing room full of antiques such as a violin, radio, chandeliers, and sofa sets that are all more than 100 years old. Other antiques one could see include coins, pen nibs and even fire extinguishers. The walls are adorned with handwritten letters and awards that the family had received at different periods in the past.
Royal grandeur: The Raza family members love to follow their customs though it could be cumbersome at times (right) Syed Masoom Raza with his wife Naseema
As you enter the house, Masoom Raza greets you with the customary adab and a domestic aide offers you a glass of water in a silver glass. Directions are issued for tea.
It is another matter that when one can get instant tea, it takes more than one hour to prepare tea in Raza’s house with all the etiquettes.
“We have been living like this for ages. Our daily chores are also done in the same manner. It takes time but we feel inner satisfaction and pride that we are living the blue lineage,” says Raza.
The stone plaques reflect that the house was opened by the then state governor C W Guwyne of British era. “We belong to the family of nawabs and are descendents of the Law Minister during the regime of the first king of Awadh,” reveals Raza.
The female members of the family also take pride in following the customs, even though at times it proves cumbersome for them. “There is nothing like fast food in our house. The cooking takes several hours and our domestic aides take care of it. The food is laid on a common dining area which is itself a reflection of a variety of Awadhi cuisine,” says Naseema, Raza’s wife.
Their daughter Haya Fatima presently pursuing engineering too is at ease living in this style where everything moves at a lethargic pace. “We use modern gadgets, but even our computer table is an antique,” she adds.
source: http://www.theweekendleader.com / The Weekend Leader / Home / by Mohd Faisal Fareed / Volume 3, Issue 3 / June 26th, 2011
Whether it is a hundred-year-old dish Kuzi or Fish Salad or Badam Ka Kund or the Noorani Seviyaan, Shahnoor Jehan, the descendent of a Sultan of Yemen, dishes out these mystic 100-year old cuisines for the connoisseurs and the gourmands.
Even as the erstwhile nawabs of India deal with the loss of their titular legacy, tables laden with succulent meats, and the foods flavoured with freshly ground spices and their untranslatable code of tehzeeb- their last standing bastions of power, wealth, and heritage – Shahnoor Jehan, whose grandmother Muzaffar Unissa Begum hailed from the family of the Sultan of Yemen, has kept it alive.
Meeting this soft-spoken lady was a quiet grounding experience given her repertoire of knowledge on food.
Shahnoor Jehan with her daughter
Daughter of an IAS officer and wife of a very supportive businessman Adil Mirza, Shahnoor Jehan was also encouraged by her adorable children Shohrab Mirza and Nimrah Mirza to use her knowledge and the knowhow inherited from her blue-blooded family and preserve the 100-year-old recipes for posterity. Khassa, a food brand, is a reality because of the support Shahnoor Jehan got from her family.
Shahnoor Jehan says, “There’s a certain etiquette that embraces all nawabi culture. It’s not so much about the commonality of ingredients or dishes but the way the food is prepared and served and the way we host our guests. And for these families, it’s comforting if you understand that,” she says. “Khassa is just that.”
In earlier days people never said “food is ready’ while inviting guests to the table,; they would say but said “Khassa Taiyaar Hain.” Shahnoor Jehan has preserved her well-guarded recipes dating back to several generations.
A dish from Shahnoor Jahan’s cook book
Her cookbook which she has preserved to date from her school days takes on a narrative beyond food; it’s about legends, anecdotes, and antiquities that comprise heritage. It is this inherited legacy that has made her take up cooking as a passion and make it her business. “I think cooking was a hidden talent in me. Most of the time friends appreciating my cooking made me ponder over the possibility of taking it up as my profession and when my kids and family support came, I converted my culinary skills into a startup.”
“Till I got married, I never had any experience of cooking; it was only an interest. It was my grandmother and mother who inspired me initially and the realization and confidence that I can cook well came with the appreciation I got from my friends and family who eagerly awaited the indulgence. The original cuisine is slowly fading away. I kept up the tradition of preparing dishes on charcoal and grounding spices made by hand..”
Begum Shahnoor Jehan the granddaughter of Nawab Ahmed Baig and her Grandmother Muzaffar Unissa Begum shares a princely legacy of the Sultan of Yemen and her food is an amalgamation of Mughal, Turkish and Arabic and influences of Hyderabadi cuisine.
She has infused local foods like rice, wheat, and meat dishes and the skilled use of spices herbs, and natural edibles in Khassa,
Owner of brand Khassa, Shahnoor Jehan serves cuisines like mutton haleem, mutton Shikamaru, dum ka murgh, or whether it is her signature dish a hundred-year-old dish called the Kuzi- leg of mutton cooked in pure almonds, saffron, and spices like black pepper enriched further with dry fruits, sugar candy ( Rock Mishri ) saffron, and silver foil are steeped in history.
Shahnoor Jahan’s recipies
While Khassa has been in the limelight for its iconic Kuzi, mutton roast or the kebabs like Shikampoor Shahnoor has also drool-worthy desserts to her credit that you can never say ever! Whether they are the innovative desserts like the Noorani Seviyan or the most rich ones like the Badam ka Kund– a traditional Hyderabadi dessert rich in almonds infused with saffron and cooked for hours together to get that creamy finish.
Says Shahnoor Jehan some of the recipes are native but they have been prepared and perfected down the generations at Shah Manzil, which is the present-day Raj Bhavan (the official residence of the State Governor). They have been part of Shahnoors family legacy for generations over a hundred years of age Adds Shahnoor my maternal Grandmother Muzzafar Unissa Begum, the daughter of the Sultan of erstwhile Yemen, and her grandfather Nawab Ahmed Baig, the son of late Shehzoor Jung, was influenced prominently by the flavours of Yemen, where she was from. I picked up most of her techniques and recipes which were well guarded and preserved by Shahnoor Jehan’s mother Faiq Jehan Till date Shahnoor continues to preserve the diaries and books belonging to her royal family. She adds that while her mother has been an inspiration for her she did pick up a few techniques from her mother-in-law Shaheda Begum she adds.
Today this luxury dining has come alive with her cuisine “Khassa” which is offered to her customers by way of food based on orders from her customers. It is indeed a luxe dining experience as nothing is too extravagant at her end whether it is the use of the saffron or the almonds, or whether it is the use of gold and silver foil, they season most of her meals. Only the finest cuts of meat make it to your orders. Whether it is ordering the mutton roast -chunks of meat soaked in sauces, ginger garlic paste, pepper, and roasted or whether it is Kairi Ka Do Pyaaza chunks of meat cooked alongside with raw mangoes spices and silky onion gravy a seasonal specialty.
Shahnoor says some of her dishes are cooked languorously , sometimes for entire day-the dum (where food is cooked for hours over low heat in lagan and smoked with the piece of burning coals placed on top to flavor the food , and these remain her techniques of choice.
Shahnoor Jahan with Khassa
In the earlier days, the chefs or the bawarchis at her Shah Manzil sometimes specialized in just one dish. Kitchens were considered laboratories, and chefs artists were encouraged to experiment innovate and create. Today we are preserving this past heritage as an agenda. She recalls the Nawabs of yore were patrons of food, helping the food to evolve Now dining With The Khassa brings back some of the grandeur and is a beautiful reminder of the lavish brilliance of nawabi food.
Says Shahnoor Jehan we want to bring a culinary slice of Yemen and the Nawabs of Hyderabad at Khassa with dishes that resonate with our philosophy of cooking with the choicest of ingredients.
Her spread in her menu looks fit for a king. There are Shammi Kebab-succulent pieces of tender lamb cooked with spices a melt-in-the-mouth experience and the Mutton Shikampur, the iconic kebabs from the royal kitchens of Hyderabad. The main course consists of Tamatar ka Kut a classic Hyderabadi dish and a rich tomato gravy topped with mild temperate spices and boiled eggs. Mutton Dalcha, is an age-old recipe of mutton cooked with lentils and bottlegourd. There are classic dishes such as Chicken or Mutton Korma cooked in rich gravy sauce or the traditional Kairi Do Pyaza a tangy lamb preparation. Her signature dishes include Haleem, Kuzi, Fish Salad Mutton Roast, Dum Ka Murgh, or the Dum Ka Raan all slow-cooked in mild spices.
Also, there are desserts to die for whether it is the Zafrani Badami Kheer, Sheer Khorma, or the Qubani ka Meetha.
Khassa indeed brings the hidden treasures of food that is heavy on aroma and boasts of rich flavours that will hit the spot if you’re looking for a feast.
www.khassabyshahnoorjehan.com
source: http://www.awazthevoice.in / Awaz, The Voice / Home> Culture / by Ratna G. Chotrani, Hyderabad / April 17th, 2022
Tall marble pillars frame photos, automobiles and more, as the Bhopal royals open up their past at the Jehan Numa Palace Hotel
Over the years, the Jehan Numa Palace in Bhopal — built on the slopes of the Shyamla Hills in 1890 by General Obaidullah Khan, commander-in-chief of the Bhopal State Force, and the second son of Nawab Sultan Jehan Begum — has worn many garbs.
The white marble edifice, which melds British Colonial, Italian Renaissance and Classical Greek architectural styles with facets of Art Deco, was constructed as the general’s office, and then used as his sons’ secretariat. After Independence, it became a government hostel, and later, the offices of the Geological Survey of India.
In 1983, after restoring the five-acre property, the general’s grandsons reopened it as a heritage hotel — its colonnaded corridors showcasing sepia-toned portraits, and the interiors housing rooms, four restaurants, two bars and a spa. Now, the pandemic has given it another facet: a museum, which came together almost like a “jigsaw puzzle”, says Faiz Rashid, director of the Jehan Numa Group of Hotels and a member of the Bhopal royal family.
Faiz Rashid
A colonnaded showcase
“[Over the last 20-odd months] we tried to come up with innovative ways to nurture hospitality. Because of the time on hand, we started looking at family archives and thought why not share the legacy with the world,” says Rashid. He tells me about putting together memorabilia: artefacts, attire, “lovely letters in Urdu” written to his great grandfather, documents, “invoices of the cars the royal family bought [like a Ford Phantom and a customised Bentley]” — all of which are now on show at the hotel.
“General Obaidullah Khan accompanied his mother, the last begum, on her foreign trips. He was inspired by different architectural styles, and the display is a pictorial history of the hotel’s evolution from the time it was built in the 19th century,” he says.
The corridors along the central courtyard, with its famed 100-year-old mango tree, were chosen as the ideal backdrop for the display. I take a virtual tour of the elegantly-framed archives, arranged in clusters on the walls of the chequered black-and-white marble and granite corridors, zooming into the photographs, and taking in glimpses of the life and times of a pre-Independence royalty that was progressive and involved, wealthy but not flamboyant, stylish but never garish.
From letters to thoroughbreds
The family took the help of Joe Alvarez, the well-known jazz singer who has written a coffee-table book on Bhopal, to curate the memorabilia.
“We divided them into nine subjects, starting with the four begums, the last nawab, dignitary visits, nawabi sports and the outdoors, and such,” says Alvarez, who has also generated a voice-over, and added a QR code to enable a Walk-In Museum audio guide.
The track at the Jehan Numa Palace Hotel
He expounds about the images of a thriving stud farm, something that continues till date (a trotting track set up when the hotel opened gives visitors a peek into the royal family’s passion for breeding thoroughbreds), of custom-built automobiles, branded guns and weapons, and official visits by dignitaries.
The begum’s photo from the archives
“The nawab begums of Bhopal were very dynamic and built the city differently from male rulers. They focussed on all areas, from education to women’s empowerment. We realised so much of their contribution — like building hospitals, enhancing the railways, opening schools — while putting this together,” shares Rashid, adding that, in 1889, Shah Jehan Begum funded the construction of Britain’s first purpose-built mosque at Woking. The collection is still evolving as more memorabilia makes its way to them slowly, from the extended family. A plan to restore and display the wedding dresses of the begums is also in the pipeline.
The museum is open to all. Rooms at the hotel are from ₹8,000 onwards. Details: jehannuma.com
Bori Safari Lodge
Spot the tiger at Bori Safari Lodge
Another post-pandemic hospitality initiative is Bori Safari Lodge, an eight-room wildlife camp started by Rashid’s brother, Aly, in the Satpura Forest. “When we started the Reni Pani Jungle Lodge [a two-and-a-half hour drive away] in 2009, it was about experiencing the diversity of the forest, with river safaris, walking trails and birding. With the Bori, the tiger comes centre stage,” says the trained naturalist, who has partnered with the state tourism department.
Aly is a trained naturalist
A tiger relocation programme successfully initiated four years ago has revitalised the habitat and the local population. “The tigers have not only flourished, but have actively begun mating.” Aly — who has great memories of spending his childhood in the forests — also leads expeditions to spot snow leopards in Ladakh and seek out the red panda in the Northeast. “This [project] is a means to conserve the landscape. The alternate income for the locals will recharge the community, support conservation, and will help wildlife be seen as an asset.”
From ₹25,000 onwards (all inclusive)
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Entertainment> Art> Weekend Travel Special 2022 / by Priyadershini S / April 15th, 2022
The Thin Edge | Revisiting the restored, resplendent Humayun’s tomb
Humayun’s tomb / File picture
I have visited Humayun’s tomb several times, seeing it transform from its earlier decrepitude to the beautiful, sensitively restored monument-space it is today.
The tomb was one of my favourite old buildings even before the restoration — something about its clean lines, its proportions that manage to effortlessly mix intimacy with graceful grandeur, the restrained colour scheme of red sandstone interrupted by sparely deployed white marble, all of it has always nourished me more than the overwhelming, in-your-face beauty of many other Indian mausoleums and temples.
With the restoration now complete, the tomb itself and the ancillary buildings have also been given a context of green, well-tended gardens, which allow the other venerable monuments on the site — the trees and foliage — their own presence, their own visual Kabuki with the man-made masonry.
Recently, I went to see the tomb again, but this time with architect friends who were visiting the city. Like me, this couple had also visited earlier but they had not seen the finished restoration. Walking around the space with two pairs of somewhat differently-trained eyes was a lesson. Things I’d never noticed were pointed out: the exact alignment between the succeeding gateways; the ‘reveal’ as you cross the final threshold and can actually see the whole structure; and how different it was from what happens at, say, the Taj Mahal.
One of the friends spoke about how the white dome interacts with the sky, glowing sharply in the chiaroscuro of dawn and dusk, almost disappearing in muted top light, coming back into round vividity against dark clouds. Examined minutely were the almost invisible rain channels worked into the stone as well as the slope of the platform to coax away the monsoon water, none of which I’d noticed before. Explained was the way the sandstone slabs were placed with minimum mortar and the fact that they fronted a stuffing of lime and stone rubble.
To the east of the tomb stretched a tumult of trees, almost hiding the nearby gurdwara, with the railway line faint in the distance, while the north side had the view of the attendant water aqueducts and the lines of the water channels that must have inspired Louis Kahn and Luis Barragán in their design of the Salk Institute in California.
The spring morning light changed around us as groups of youngsters pranced up and down the stairs and sashayed across the flagstone, moving in unspoken group-selfie choreography, freezing from time to time without tangible signal into Instagram-mudras. Inside the shadowy central chamber, boisterous groups of young men yelled and blew klaxon whistles, bathing in the amazing acoustics before guards chased them away. On the grounds, on the benches under the quartet of pilkhan trees, a couple sat in chaste-canoodle mode while schoolgirls prowled around politely, looking for victims to interview for their class assignment. The austere beauty of the building, the lush, basant authority of the trees and the celebratory clusters of young people together made a whole that transcended architecture, arbour and holiday ardour.
The friends I accompanied are part of a loose movement of Indian architects drawing notice and accolades because of their alternative approach to building for our times.
This approach is defined by several things; a deep study of local grammar and traditions that inform any new design; a rigorous examination of the environmental impact of any new building, with innovative solutions to cooling and energy consumption becoming central to a project from the very beginning of conceptualization; an aim for genuine, non-grandiose beauty in the final design, all of this entirely subservient to who will use the building and how they will experience it in daily use. This movement is not confined just to India or to the subcontinent. A few days after my friends’ visit, came the welcome news that Diébédo Francis Kéré of Burkina Faso and Germany had won the Pritzker Prize, the most prestigious international recognition for architectural work.
This is not the place to detail Kéré’s work but what is important to note is that the architect has consistently built across some of the most deprived areas of Africa, working with local people, using the simplest local materials in the most inventive ways to produce buildings and projects which pair stunning design with amazing utility. Thus, a local school building may be made from compacted clay, with its ceiling and walls designed to cool the classrooms without any air-conditioning or glass cladding; a lighting scheme in another building may involve embedding into a ceiling traditional pots sliced into half; a Parliament building for Benin may echo a palaver tree under which people traditionally gather for meetings, while a proposed Parliament for Burkina Faso may be in the form of a ziggurat where the assembly is underground below a terraced public park, where the people are literally above the legislators. “I want people to take ownership over the parliament building,” Kéré has said and in that one sentence perhaps lies the core of his philosophy.
A few minutes drive from Humayun’s tomb brings you to the tin-sheet canyons that enclose the biggest heist of urban commons in the history of independent India. Here, at the Central Vista, the most pompously authoritarian, most ecologically damaging, most backward-looking glass and concrete office blocks, the prime minister’s mansion and the fortress-like new Parliament building are being constructed for a huge amount of public money at a time of grim scarcity. This area, for decades one of the few places where even the poorest of the city could walk in greenery, will now become a high-security showpiece for the bloated egos of those in power. In a city full of beautiful mausoleums, these future tombs for those ruling over us today will not stand any test or comparison. But meanwhile, whether in Kutch or Koudougou, in Dakar or Dhaka, human ingenuity, generosity and aesthetic grace will continue to produce architecture that re-affirms life and joy.
source: http://www.telegraphindia.com / The Telegraph Online / by Ruchir Joshi / March 22nd, 2022
Eight poets of the past capture Delhi’s joys and sorrows
Saif Mahmood’s Beloved Delhi: A Mughal City and Her Greatest Poets offers offers a window into the life, times, and poetry of Delhi’s greatest Urdu poets from the 18th and 19th centuries, with witty and critical insight, in a conversational style that has become Saif’s hallmark in many a literary gathering.
Focusing on eight poets, he allows us to touch Delhi’s past and rethink its present through Urdu. Each chapter on a poet is divided into two sections — the first is biographical and provides the reader with insight into Delhi’s material conditions through the vicissitudes of the poet’s life. Thus, the 18th century poets are nomadic because of the post-Nadir Shah instabilities of Delhi.
The 19th century poets lead more sedentary lives, as the British Residency of Delhi provides the military support, at least until the cleavage of 1857. This upsets the tradition of the classical Urdu ghazal, and so the last poet analysed is Daagh Dehlvi, already writing in 1857, and a step-grandson of the last Mughal King, Bahadur Shah Zafar. The book also records this decline visually through Anant Raina’s photographs of the current gravesites of these poets, exhibiting the absolute lack of public or state support toward heritage maintenance.
The second part gives an excellent commentary on their poetry.
Saif’s familiarity with the tradition and his capacities for literary criticism shine through, as the raconteur in him narrates the stories of these poets’ poetry with coherence, complexity, and lucidity. The book highlights Urdu poets who are well known to Urdu readers, but not to listeners of ghazals or those interested in the literature from the outside.
Apart from Ghalib (described by Saif as ‘Master of Masters’), and Mir Taqi Mir (‘the Incurable Romancer of Delhi’), poets such as Sauda (‘the Great Satirist’), Mir Dard (‘Urdu’s Dancing Dervish’), Ustad Ibrahim Zauq (‘The Poet Laureate’), Bahadur Shah Zafar (the ‘Emperor’ who has an ‘Affair with Urdu’), and Daagh (‘the Last Casanova of Delhi’) get the attention they deserve.
The collection also brings out the specificities of their poetry including the great licence, often through satire, that many of these commanded with the ruling powers as dissenters. Tolerance for such criticism today rests uneasy with the crown. The poets extol the city of Delhi as picturesque, showing colours unimaginable, but also to be lamented after each violent tragedy, with a sense of loss, sometimes in a dedicated genre, the shahr-ashob or city-lament.
Beloved Delhi is for keeps and must be read by all with the remotest of interests in Urdu, Delhi, or poetry and poets.
Beloved Delhi: A Mughal City and Her Greatest Poets ; Saif Mahmood, Speaking Tiger, ₹599.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Books> Reviews / by Maaz Bin Bilal / November 03rd, 2018
