Aligarh, UTTAR PRADESH :
Rubina Rashid Ali with artisans (Source: Instagram)
Phool Patti embroidery or applique work has been the forte of women of Aligarh and Rampur regions of Uttar Pradesh since the Mughal period.
Rubina Rashid Ali from Aligarh told Awaz-the Voice that after she realised that women who are preserving this art were not getting due remuneration, she took up the cause of popularising this art form.
Rubina Rashid Ali works in the administrative department of Aligarh Muslim University. She lives on the AMU campus with her three children and husband. She did her Masters in Advertising and Communication from the National Institute of Advertising, Delhi.
Rubina Rashid Ali told Awaz-The Voice that she has been interested in ‘Phool-patti’ work and embroidery since 2003. However, only after becoming stable in her studies, job, and family life, did she dedicate her time and energy to promote it in 2019. She got connected to women who are into applique style. Now they take orders online and deliver them with their team on a contract basis.
Rubina Rashid Ali told Awaz-The Voice that women are mainly engaged in making articles with embroidery, while men take orders. This drained the earnings as a big part of the profit went to the middlemen.
“This craft suffers from a lack of design intervention and diversification and has to catch up with the contemporary aesthetics,” she said.
Rubina Rashid Ali said that the book Phool-Patti Ka Kaam is the first publication on this unique embroidery form. Phool-Patti Ka Kaam is the story of embroidery told through glimpses of Saleha Khan’s work with artisan women and girls during the 1970s and 1980s.
A beautifully illustrated book, it traces its background and scope. it takes us through the array of different floral patterns, designs, and materials. It covers experiments with ornamentation and innovations, including its use on various garments and home décor. And most importantly, it provides a glimpse of the artisans of Aligarh
This book is for art connoisseurs and those who appreciate, learn, promote, explore, and experiment with this unique applique style.
Apart from being a useful resource for craft lovers, the book aims to generate interest among designers, entrepreneurs, and policy planners to further the scope, popularity, and prospects of Phool-Patti, while ensuring a fair share of economic benefits and recognition for its artisans.
Rubina Rashid Ali told Awaz-the Voice that the suitable combination of flower leaf work with other crafts like Chinkara, Gota Patti work, hand-painting, tie and dye, Mukesh work, etc. needs to be widely explored in different colour palettes.
Product diversification not only in clothing and fashion accessories but also in home decor, lifestyle-based products, corporate gifts, souvenirs, etc. ensures its wide reach and penetration in various segments.
In the era of easy availability of fabrics, many people are interested in spending extra money for handmade applique work.
Rubina Rashid said that the original cotton, cambric cotton, Kota cotton, etc. are used for embroidery. However, these days it is also being done on Chanderi silk which is a unique silk from Madhya Pradesh. To promote the flower-leaf embroidery, she does new experiments every day in which sometimes she does the flower-leaf work using crochet, and sometimes other types of embroidery so that she can make that piece even better.
Rubina Rashid Ali and her artisans make articles like ladies’ kurtas, saree, dupatta, etc. for sale. She says this work involves designing it on fine fabric, cutting and skilfully folding these before shaping each piece into small petals and leaves by embroidering on the cloth.
This special applique work finds limited mention in the collection of Indian and global embroidery forms.
Rubina Rashid Ali prepares all her designs and also takes full care of the welfare of the artisans working with her. Rubina Rashid Ali told Awaz-The Voice that she exhibited her works at Delhi Haat, Kolkata Bazaar, Bangalore, Rajasthan, Kota, etc. She found people appreciated her work.
Rubina Rashid Ali told Awaz-The Voice that over time, crafts have become an integral part of the socio-cultural aspect of the country. Unfortunately, in the last few years, many crafts have reached the verge of extinction as fast fashion brands are dominating the market with their easily available cheap clothing options.
source: http://www.awazthevoice.in / Awaz, The Voice / Home> Story / by Onika Maheshwari, New Delhi / January 12th 2025