Proud to be Punjabi. That’s the well-heeled Punjabi community of the Capital, a community with established business interests, its own way of living, its own burial ground, says VIVEK SHUKLA….
A MUSLIM family along with their friends and relatives recently went to a burial ground in Shiddipura near Idgah mosque known as Qabristan Qaum Punjabian for the last rites of a relative. They were, however, told by the guard of the burial ground that this place is only for Delhi’s Punjabi Muslim community.
Principal of Delhi University’s Zakir Hussain College, Prof. Riaz Umer, who is also the president of the Anjuman Vakile Qaum Punjabian of Delhi, the organisation looking after the institutions run by this community, informs that other than their own community members they only allow the burial of somebody who has made a significant contribution for their community.
This is a very unique community as Punjabi Muslims still vigorously preserve their own identity. The elders of Punjabi Muslim community came here for the first time in mid-17th Century from a place called Bhera in West Punjab, now in Pakistan. They were Khatri Hindus with surnames like Khanna, Channa, Sapra, Baluja, Saluja, Sehgal, Mehndiratta, Bahri and Sachdeva, etc., before embracing Islam.
Legend has is that a group of Punjabi Khatris from Bhera was going to Haridwar for a holy dip in Ganga. On the way, they met Sufi Shamsuddin Tabrez who asked where were they going. When he was told by the Khatris about their plan, the saint reportedly asked whether they would become Muslim if he brought the Ganga right there. The Hindu Khatris accepted his offer and the saint literally brought the Ganga there and then the awe-struck Hindus as promised converted to Islam.
S.M. Abdullah, a prominent member of Delhi’s Punjabi Muslim community, says that while it is true that their forefathers embraced Islam, nevertheless they vigorously guard their exclusive heritage. “Come, what may, Punjabi Muslims will not marry outside the community. We ensure that the bride or groom’s family is Punjabi Muslim, that too from Bhera,” says Abdullah, proudly adding that his surname is Mehndiratta.
It is said that 64 Punjabi Muslim families came to Delhi at the outset. They set up their base somewhere around the present-day Shalimar Bagh. The male members started going downtown to find work. “With the passage of time they started doing small jobs here but were rather shabbily treated by the locals as they were not sophisticated enough to communicate with the more refined and cultured Delhiwallahs,” says Nasser, another member of this dwindling community and a leading model.
According to Abdullah, the Punjabi Muslims’ big time came when the Moghul Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar was looking for some rare herb called Bahadra. When only the Punjabi Muslims could provide the herb, the king and his courtiers were really surprised. He called important members of this community and asked them whether they wanted anything from him. The Punjabi Muslims, among other things, sought permission to do business in downtown Delhi and a separate piece of land for their burial ground. The demand for business was granted and land was allotted to them near the present-day Raj Niwas, the official bungalow of Delhi’s Lt. Governor for burials. Once the first ground was full, another burial ground was made near the historic Idgah mosque at Shiddipura. Known as Qabristan Qaum Punjabian, the burial ground can only be used by Punjabi Muslims. There is no place for any non-Punjabi here.
It is said that 75 per cent of the Walled City belongs to this community. Except for a handful of doctors, teachers, engineers and advocates, they are all into business. Once G.B. Road was almost totally owned members of Punjabi Muslims. After Partition, many of them left India and the authorities confiscated their properties.
The famous Marina Hotel is also partially owned by one Haroon Japanwala while the famous Dehalvi family of Shama Publications fame are also Punjabi Muslims.
The historic Hardinge Library is also said to be financed by one Buksh Elahi, a cigarette merchant. He also belonged to this community.
The Punjabi Muslims community also conducts its own census every 10 years. According to the latest census report, the total population of this community in Delhi is 5090. The literacy rate is over 50 per cent. It is more than the literacy rate of Muslims in the Capital.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Metro Plus Delhi – online edition / by Vivek Shukla / March 06th, 2003
The Khatris have practised the art for eight generations now
Sitting on the floor, Abdul Hamid carefully twists a thick spool of yellow paint around a metal pin. Stretched out before him is a piece of red cloth, pinned on either side to the legs of his trousers. He dabs the paint on the heel of his left palm — it’s a gummy mass and has to be worked into something more malleable. Hamid then brings the tip of the pin a few inches above the cloth, and as it hovers, an elastic strand of colour streams on to the surface. And the magic begins: an intricate pattern grows beneath the swirling pin that never touches the cloth. The floral design looks like needlework.
Hamid then folds the cloth and, just like that, a flawless mirror-image of the pattern appears and an exquisite piece of Rogan art is born.
“We have practised Rogan for eight generations now,” says Hamid. “The first six generations did not get their due for preserving the art, but now, finally it is widely recognised and we couldn’t be happier.”
‘Rogan’ in Persian means oil: the paint is made with castor oil. Rogan art is believed to have originated in Persia some 300 years ago and was traditionally used to embellish bridal trousseaus. As it crossed borders, it began fading from the collective memory of its creators. But nine members of the Khatri family in Nirona, a small village in Gujarat’s Kutch district, are the last surviving custodians of the art form.
The Khatri community once did Rogan work on the clothes of local animal herders and farming communities. But as machine-made textiles became a more affordable alternative and Khatri youth lost interest in learning the art, Rogan began to disappear. “But our family revived it in 1985,” says Hamid. In fact it is Hamid’s elder cousin, Abdul Gafur Khatri, a national award winner, who is credited with resurgence of Rogan art.
P.M.’s pick
The ‘Tree of Life’, an intricately patterned tree with hundreds of dots and dashes, is their signature painting and most in demand. A 14×17” painting can take 12 days to complete— Prime Minister Narendra Modi chose one to gift to the then U.S. President Barack Obama during his U.S. visit.
“Rogan art is 100% an artist’s imagination on a piece of cloth,” Gafur bhai, as he is better known, explains. “There is no tracing, no drawings to refer to.”
But preparing the base from castor oil is a laborious process and can take two days. The oil is heated and cooled in a (special) vessel and continuously stirred so it doesn’t burn. After two days, the residue left behind is mixed with cold water and it thickens into a sticky paste called rogan. Natural colour pigments are then added to the oil base. “Yellow, for instance, comes from a particular stone that is ground,” says Hamid. The pigments are added to the castor oil base and stored in earthen pots.
The nine artists have six national awards and six State awards between them. They proudly show me photographs of celebrities — politicians, film stars, sports stars — who have either bought their art work or felicitated them at awards functions.
Men last longer
It strikes me as odd that all nine members of the family working on the art form are men. This could perhaps do with the belief that women, once they get married, would pass on their knowledge to their husband’s families, threatening the art with dilution. But as Rogan faces extinction, Gafur bhai, has taken upon himself the task of teaching the technique to 200 girls from his village. And this has breathed fresh life into the dying art.
“We taught most of these girls for free. They can now create at least the basic designs,” Gafur bhai says, adding that 25 girls also help the family with their work. In another effort to popularise Rogan, the family conducts live demonstrations for every visitor at their doorstep. During the 30-minute demonstration, artists patiently answer questions and explain the techniques they use. On an average, the family gets 150 visitors a day. And between November and February, during the Rann Utsav — the Kutch desert festival — the numbers shoot up to 250 or 300.
No tough competition
Unlike other forms of textile art such as Ajrakh that face are under threat by factory-made products, Rogan faces no such competition, but meeting market demand has been a challenge.
“You will not find Rogan art the way you find other arts in the markets. It’s not because we don’t want it to go out to the people, it’s because we have limited resources,” says Gafur bhai. We go to five or six exhibitions around the country in a year, and rest of the time we are at home, working.”
It has been a long journey for the Khatri family: from reviving the art to creating public interest to recovering from the Bhuj earthquake setback. But today, they are only seeing a huge resurgence of interest.
The writer is an independent journalist based in Gujarat. When not researching her stories, she is busy spinning tales for her toddler.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Society / by Azera Parveen Rahman / January 20th, 2018
Association of Muslim Professionals announced its ‘AMP NATIONAL AWARD FOR EXCELLENCE IN EDUCATION 2018’ on the occasion of ‘Teachers Day’ on September 5th, 2018
The importance of teachers can be understood by the quote of Prophet Muhammad (SAW) where he said that “I have been sent only as a teacher to you“. The Prophet PBUH reached the hearts and minds of people through educational activities.
5th September is celebrated as Teachers’ Day in India. The contributions and successes of Teachers and Educationists are celebrated across India this day. The role of a teacher/educator in the society is both significant and valuable. They have a profound influence on the lives of the students – they build their competence and shape their characters, thereby laying the foundation of a strong and civilized society.
After the successful launch of the Education Excellence Awards last year, this year again AMP is has announced the names of 100+ Influential Educators across the country. AMP aims to felicitate and recognize teachers who are going beyond their duty and inspiring students to reach greater heights. AMP has initiated this prestigious award to highlight the contribution of teachers in Nation Building and helping make a better society through inspirational teaching.
We extend our warm greetings and felicitations to all the teachers, particularly those who have been selected and appreciated by AMP in recognition of their outstanding services in the field of Education and invaluable Contribution to the Society at large. In today’s modern world, it is all the more necessary that our children understand the human values of love, respect and tolerance, which are essential for a peaceful world. It is, therefore, vital that teachers emphasize the importance of these values. Students should be made to think in terms of the welfare of humankind and progress of the nation”.
Chapter Leaders and members of AMP from various cities across the country nominated Teachers, Principals and Sr. Academicians from different Institutions, who have served the Society and the Community with distinction. The team of Senior Professionals and Academicians along with AMP Board evaluated and selected 100+ such Professionals and they are declared the recipients of these Awards.
Sr. No
Awardee Name
Title
Location
1
Mr. Furqan Qamar
Secretary General, Association of Indian Universities (AIU)
Delhi
2
Dr. Akhtarul Wasey
President, Maulana Azad University
Jodhpur
3
Prof. Tariq Mansoor
Vice Chancellor, Aligarh Muslim University
Aligarh
4
Prof. Talat Ahmad
Vice Chancellor, Kashmir University
Kashmir
5
Dr. Faizan Mustafa
Vice Chancellor, NALSAR University of Law
Hyderabad
6
Mr. Mohammad Aslam Parvaiz
Vice Chancellor, Maulana Azad National Urdu University(MANUU)
Hyderabad
7
Maulana Gulam Mohammad Ismail Vastanvi
President, Jamia Islamia Ishatul Uloom, Akkalkuwa
Akkalkuwa
8
Dr. Shahid Ashraf
Pro-Vice Chancellor, Jamia Millia Islamia University
Delhi
9
Prof. Abdul Shaban
Pro-Vice Chancellor, Tata Institute of Social Sciences (TISS)
Mumbai
10
Dr. Amitabh Kundu
Former Dean, School of Social Sciences, JNU
Delhi
11
Dr. Amir Ullah Khan
President, Glocal University
Hyderabad
12
Dr. Faruk Kazi
Dean- Research, Development and Consultancy at Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute (VJTI)
Mumbai
13
Dr. Manmohan Singh Chauhan
Director, Central Institute for Research on Goats
Mathura (U.P.)
14
Prof. Shahid Ahmed
Professor, Jamia Millia Islamia University
Delhi
15
Prof. Syed Noman Ahmad
Professor, Aligarh Muslim University
Aligarh
16
Prof. Apoorvanand
Professor, University of Delhi
Delhi
17
Dr. Mahrukh Mirza
Vice Chancellor, Urdu Arabi – Farsi University
Lucknow
18
Prof. Zubair Meenai
Professor, Jamia Millia Islamia University
Delhi
19
Dr. Gazala Habib
Associate Professor, IIT Delhi
Delhi
20
Mr. Makibur Rahman
HOD, D.I.E.T.
Guwahati
21
Prof. Anwar Khan
Associate Professor, Public Administration Services
Hyderabad
22
Dr. Farrukh Waris
Retd. Principal, Burhani College of Arts and Commerce
Mumbai
23
Dr. Abdul Azim Akhtar
Asst Professor, Shree Guru Gobind Singh Tricentenary University
Delhi
24
Prof. Adil Hakeem Khan
Director, Nation College of Engineering & Technology
Guna (M.P.)
25
Dr. Sayed Aleem Ashraf Jaisi
Reader, Arabic Department, MANU
Hyderabad
26
Dr. Kalim Khan
Director, Rizvi Institute of Management Studies
Mumbai
27
Mr. Anwar Khan
Retd. Principal, Osmania University
Hyderabad
28
Prof. Shaikh Rahmatullah
Professor of Tourism, Dr. D Y Patil University
Navi Mumbai
29
Dr. Afroz Alam
HOD, Maulana Azad National Urdu University (MANUU)
Hyderabad
30
Dr. Yasmeen Pervez
HOD, Chhatrapati Shivaji Institute of Technology
Raipur
31
Dr. Mumtaz Ahmed Khan
Founder & Chairman, Al-Ameen Educational Society
Bangalore
32
Mr. Abdul Rasheed
Director, Al-Rizwan Group of Jr. College and Schools
Nanded
33
Mr. Shaikh Masood Mohiuddin
Professor, Dr. Zakir Hussain Jr. College of Arts, Commerce and Science
Aurangabad
34
Mr. Mohammad Shameem Jawed
Assistant Professor, IIM Visakhapatnam
Vishakhapatnam
35
Dr. Mohd. Kaleem Khan
Associate Professor, IIT Patna
Patna
36
Dr. Azizuddin Khan
Associate Professor, IIT Bombay
Mumbai
37
Mr. Mohammed Lateef Khan
Founder Trustee and Chairman, MS Education Academy
Hyderabad
38
Dr. Razak Ustaad
Associate Professor, SLN Engg College
Raichur
39
Mrs. M. Sharmeela
Head Mistress, Municipal Muslim Girls Middle School
Vaniyambadi
40
Miss. Munawar Sultana .A.
HOD, Islamiah Girls Higher Secondary School
Vaniyambadi
41
Mr. Zafar Ahmed Khan
Retd. Principal, Qidwai Jr. College of Arts, Commerce & Science
Nagpur
42
Mr. Inamur Rehim
Teacher, M. A. K. Azad Jr. College
Nagpur
43
Prof. S. Raisuddin
Professor, Jamia Hamdard University
Delhi
44
Brig. Syed Ahmad Ali
Director, Jahangirabad Institute of Technology
Barabanki
45
Dr. Tanveer Jamal
Principal, City Compostile PU College
Gulbarga
46
Dr. Aslam Sayeed
Professor, Al Badar Dental College
Gulbarga
47
Mr. Md. Javeed Abdul Rehman Saheb Momin
Assistant Teacher, Anjuman Urdu High School
Hubli
48
Dr. Shariq Nisar
Professor, Rizvi Institute of Management Studies and Research (RIMSR)
Mumbai
49
Mrs. Sahana Zamal
Teacher, Govt. Primary School
Odisha
50
Mr. Kazi Mujiboddin Hamidoddin
Research Scholar
Ambajogai, Beed
51
Mr. Sayyed Zahid Ali
Head In-Charge, TMC School No. 124, Mumbra
Mumbra
52
Dr. Bilal Sheth
Senior Lecturer, Govt. Dental College
Himmatnagar
53
Mr. Hanif Tailor
Principal, Pipardiwala English Medium School
Surat
54
Mr. Syed Balig Ahmed
Director, Ranthambhore Nursing College
Sawai Madhopur, Rajsthan
55
Mr. Shaikh Aziz Shaikh Yaseen
Assistant Teacher, Mother Ayesha High School and Junior College
Malegaon
56
Mr. Shaikh Mehaboob Ali Kittur
Ret. Asst. Teacher, St. Mary’s High School
Hubli
57
Mr. Akhtar Hussain
Principal, Government Senior Secondary School
Bissau, Rajasthan
58
Mr. Siddiqui Saleem Shahzad
Assistant Teacher, ATT High School and Junior College
Malegaon
59
Mr. Mahmood Ali Md Yusuf Khan
Assistant Teacher, ATT High School and Junior College
Mumbai
60
Mr. Imran Khan
Teacher, Varisth Upadhyay Sanskrit School
Alwar, Rajasthan
61
Mr. Fayyaz Ahmed Ghulam Mustufa Momin
Teacher, Samadiya High School and Jr. College
Mumbai
62
Mrs. N. M. Shalika Banu
Teacher, Fathima Central Senior Secondary School
Chennai
63
Dr. Ateeque Malani
Assistant Professor, IIT Bombay
Mumbai
64
Mrs. Fatima Rashid
HOD, Unviersal Education
Mumbai
65
Dr. Mohammed Tahir Ansari
Assistant Professor, University Kuala Lumpur Royal College of Medicine Perak
Mumbai
66
Dr. Mehrunnisha .M. Sheriff Desai
HOD, R. J. Tiberwala College of Commerce
Dhandhuka, Ahmedabad
67
Miss. Qudsiya Shahana
Vice Principal, Anwar UP Uloom Higher Secondary School
Bhopal
68
Mr. Abdul Aziz U Rajput
Historain and Freelancer
Bijapur, Karnataka
69
Mr. Raja Hussain
Assistant Professor, Islamiah Boys Higher Secondary School
Vaniyambadi
70
Dr. Shahnaz Nabi
Former HOD, Calcutta University
Kolkata
71
Mr. Tafseer Ahmad Khan
Assistant Block Resources Coordinator, BRC Kunda
Kunda, Pratapgarh
72
Mr. Yunus Sahab
General Secretary, Taha Group of Institutions
Ballari
73
Mr. Siraj M Jamkhandi
Headmaster, Secab Malik Sandal Urdu High School
Bijapur
74
Mr. Mohammed Azheruddin
Principal, Noble High School
Bhainsa, Telangana
75
Mr. Mohamed Attaulla Khan
Principal, K. K. Public School
Bangalore
76
Mrs. Farhat Ali Syed
Assistant Professor, Prestige Institute Of Management & Research
Indore
77
Mr. Syed Maquasood Ali
Principal, Innovative Public Higher Secondary School
Dewas
78
Dr. Ahsan Bin Mohammed Al Hamoomi
Director, Green Meadows Park School
Hyderabad
79
Mrs. Fareeda Banu Md. Javeed Momin
Assistant Teacher, Govt. U.H.P. School
Hubli
80
Mr. Mohammed Sadiq
Founder, Hyderabad Islamic School
Hyderabad
81
Mr. Altaf Haider Momin
Teacher, Zilha Prishad Urdu School
Islampur
82
Dr. Mohd. Abdul Aleem
Guest Faculty, Maulana Azad National Urdu University
Hyderabad
83
Mr. Shamshoddin Zare
Assistant Teacher, Govt School UHPS
Jamkhandi, Karnataka
84
Prof. M. A. Mallick
Professor, Integral University
Lucknow
85
Mr. Mohammed Hamed Hussain Farooqui
Director & Principal, Madina Islamic Mission High School
Hyderabad
86
Prof. Alquama Shibli
Fromer Guest Lecturer, Calcutta University
Kolkata
87
Mr. Yusuf Lat
Retd. Teacher, M.M.P. High School
Surat
88
Mr. Suleman A Patel
Retd. Teacher, M.M.P. High School
Surat
89
Prof. M.N.Hoda
Director, Bhartiya Vidyapeeth’s BVICAM
Delhi
90
Mr. Abdul Razik Husain
Head Teacher, Amravati Z. P
Amravati
91
Mr. Shahid Ali Abidi
Head Master, Upper Primary School
Lucknow
92
Mr. Sayed Sajidulla Inamdar
Assistant Teacher, Govt Urdu School
Jamkhandi
93
Mr. Abdulrehmaan T Sindhi
Retd. HOD, G. D. Modi College of Arts
Palanpur
94
Mrs. Rehana Shaikh
President, Iqra school
Vijayapur
95
Mr. Mohammad Zuhair
Vice Principal, P.R.Pote Patil College of Engineering
Amravati
96
Mr. NoorulHuda Shabbir Qureshi
Teacher, B. Z. Urdu High School and Jr. College
Bhusawal
97
Mr. Syed Shah Ali Al Hussaini
Pro Chancellor, KBN University
Gulbarga
98
Dr. Bibi Raza Khatoon
Asistant Professor, MANNU
Hyderabad
99
Mrs. Mehjabeen .K. Kamangar
Vice Principal, Anjuman Urdu High School
Hubli
100
Dr. Rabiya Khanam
Principal, Hameed Pyare College of Education
Gulbarga
101
Miss. Syeda Abeedi Mohammadi
Principal, Faraan High School
Gulbarga
102
Prof. Muzaffar .H. Assadi
Special Officer & Professor, Raichur University
Raichur
103
Mrs. Ayesha Arif Shaikh
Principal, Anglo Urdu Girls High School
Pune
104
Mrs. Umme Salma Zia Haider Naqvi
Principal, Anjuman I Islam’s Mustafa Fakih Urdu High School and Junior College
Thane
105
Mr. Mohammed Rafeeq Rangrez
Assistant Teacher, Govt Junior College & High School
Yadgir
106
Dr. Mohammedshafi Abdulraheem Phaniband
Professor, SDM College of Engineering and Technology
Hubli
107
Mrs. Anisa Shaikh
Principal, F. D. High School
Ahmedabad
108
Mr. Abdulrashid Ahamadsaheb Sanadi
Retd. Headmaster, Bharatesh High School
Belagavi, Karnataka
109
Mr. M. Hussain
Teacher, Kerala Urdu Teachers Association
Kerala
110
Dr. Asna Urooj
Professor, University of Mysore
Mysore
source: http://www.ampindia.org / AMP- Association of Muslim Professionals / Home> AMP Education Awards / September 2018
Susanna Myrtle Lazarus visits establishments that offer a bespoke experience for men
You absolutely love that one shirt on display at the store; it’s even available in your size. Just to be safe, you try it on, and to your indescribable disappointment, find that it’s either too narrow at the shoulder or the collar is cutting off your airway or it doesn’t fit around your waist because it’s that dreaded slim cut. And that’s the reason why more and more men are opting to get their clothes tailored, and not just at the corner tailor store, but of the bespoke kind.
But what does bespoke mean exactly? While the dictionary definition is ‘made to order’, in the world of bespoke tailoring, it’s not as simple as that. Unaiz Ahmed of Syed Bawkher & Co in Nungambakkam, says, “It stems from the word ‘bespeak’, which means to be spoken for. It is expressly made to fit one particular man, right from the fabric and pattern to the cut. And it’s not to be confused with made-to-measure, which is derived from a standard block pattern and has superficial adjustments made to it. It won’t account for a peculiar drop of the shoulder or waist. It has limitations, while bespoke tailoring takes all this into account.”
This is one of the main reasons why men prefer to have their suits custom-made to their requirements. “Fit has become an important criteria. In the business world, it’s not very important to wear a suit now; those who do wear them want to have a unique one that showcases their personality and individuality. They also do their research and know what they’re looking for,” says Unaiz.
He knows what he’s talking about: his family has been in the bespoke business for four generations now. As he speaks about his education in London, and under the tutelage of his father, Unaiz deftly marks out a pattern on the material of a dark blue suit. “The person who measures and the person who marks and cuts the material should be the same. Two people can have the exact same measurements but completely different body types. That connection is needed to create the perfect garment,” he says.
Generally, the process of creating a bespoke suit, shirt or trousers can take two to three weeks, depending on the time of the year. First, there’s the consultation, where the client decides what he wants. Depending on the budget and occasion for which he will be wearing it, the tailors will recommend fabric, colour, style and cut. Based on this, extensive measurements are taken. About a week later, the client comes in for a trial fitting when adjustments are made as required. In another week’s time, when the garment is almost finished, there’s a second fitting. Once all the final tweaks are made, the finished product is delivered. All the garments are hand-stitched.
If it’s a wedding, a lot of men go in for tuxedos or bandhgalas. Dark, formal prints are best for lounge suits and business meetings, while lighter shades are preferred for luncheons and summer outdoor weddings. Bespoke pieces usually go by classic cuts and not by trends, and tend to focus more on what looks good for a person’s body type. For a slim and tall person, a sleek and athletic cut will work. Shorter men get a more relaxed cut, and if they are stout, pleated trousers are suggested to give a flattering look.
Prices range from Rs. 35,000 for a basic suit and can go up to Rs. 3 lakh, depending on the fabric used, with cashmeres, vicunas, super 200s and fine counts leaving your wallet considerably lighter than the 120 count fabric from Indian mills would. On an average, a suit can cost anywhere between Rs. 55,000 and Rs. 75,000 at this premium store. Behind Unaiz hangs a pale pink linen jacket. “That one is going to New York; our client wants to wear it for the summer,” he says, adding that men are more comfortable with experimenting with their clothing abroad than they are here in Chennai.
However, this is changing, feels Tushar Bansal of Mandira Bansal Studio. The label, which was founded in 2011, has recently launched its design studio in Alwarpet. He shows some examples of how customers are subtly taking their style quotient up a notch: a waistcoat with The Simpsons print lining, a Nehru jacket with a woven design on the collar and another with a translucent houndstooth fabric overlaid on a cream and pink print material. They have also created a monochrome Madras print on request from a client; it features an autorickshaw.
“We also do bespoke kurtas and sherwanis. Not only do clients want a better fit for their wedding wear, they’re not content with off-the-rack pieces. Men have become more conscious about their look; comfort and a personalised touch is what they look for. They pay attention to every minute detail, from the buttons used, to the colour of the thread and the cuffs,” says Tushar, whose clientele is largely from the North Indian community in the city.
Tushar finds that it’s not the younger crowd that does the experimenting. “The more travelled clients who are aware of fashion trends and have met people who push the envelope when it comes to personal style are the ones who are ready to play around with their ensembles,” he says.
Machine-stitched bespoke suits come in the range of Rs. 15,000 to Rs. 18,000, while the same when hand-stitched costs double — it’s labour-intensive and takes 12 days for a single suit to be finished. Sherwanis made of fine fabrics like georgette, net and pure brocade are hand-embroidered at the studio, and can cost upwards of Rs. 35,000.
At Bespoke by Lazaro on Khader Nawaz Khan Road, clients come in asking for very specific detailing on their shirts. “Those who have the confidence to carry off bold colours are the ones who go for it. Otherwise, it’s generally charcoal, greys and blues,” says Tamsil Ahmed, business partner of the firm. Shirts here cost between Rs. 1,500 and Rs. 2,500, while suits go from Rs. 11,500 to Rs. 45,000. Indian brand material on average cost Rs. 1,600 per metre, while Italian and other international brands, retail at Rs. 7,000 to Rs. 10,000 per metre,” explains Tamsil.
“There’s a noticeable difference between a tailored shirt and a bespoke one. Some of our clients are fitness freaks and they don’t get readymade shirts that fit very well. Here, we can give them a garment that shows off their physique,” he says. And when it comes to suits, Tamsil says that accessories like cufflinks, tie pins and pocket squares add an extra dimension to the look. For those particular about their footwear, this store also offers bespoke shoes, ranging from Rs. 7,000 to Rs. 12,000.
It’s not just for occasional wear that men are going in for bespoke clothing. S. Mohamed Sultan Shabeer, a 35-year-old industrialist, is a recent convert to the trend. “I used to get my shirts tailored online, but I wanted better options. A friend recommended I go in for bespoke, so I ordered a couple of shirts and a pair of trousers for trial. I could see and feel the difference immediately and a lot of people commented favourably on my appearance,” he says, adding that he immediately went in for a wardrobe overhaul, ordering 30 shirts at one go.
While Shabeer prefers Egyptian and Italian fabrics, Nawaz, director of a trading company, goes in for linens most of the time. “The fact that I have control over every step of how my clothes are made is what appeals to me. I can get exactly what I want and I don’t have to compromise on anything,” he says. “When I first tried bespoke clothes a few years ago, I did not have the patience. But now, I enjoy the interaction and the process that goes into it,” adds the 43-year-old.
“With more clients going in for bespoke, designers are also working towards giving the same personalised service at a lesser price,” says Tushar.
There’s no doubt about it; men are willing to spend some serious coin when it comes to looking dapper. Unaiz says it’s for the experience of getting something made exclusively for you, a one-of-a-kind piece that no one else in the world has.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Fashion / by Susanna Myrtle Lazarus / Chennai – April 24th, 2015
RJ and entrepreneur Shabbeer Ahmed turns back the pages to simpler times in a smaller city
I first moved Bengaluru in the year 1995. Back then, all the roads were lined with trees, which looked wonderful when they bloomed, and the traffic situation was not so bad. My favourite road in fact was Bannerghatta road, which in those days was considered the fringe of the city, where people came for a relaxing drive. I actually used to stay near the Meenakshi temple in Hulimavu, areas which were barren a few years back. There used to be a water theme park near Bannerghatta which is no more, and now the area is just like any other part of the city. We spent many days on motorcycle rides in this area, stopping to buy egg puffs from the lovely bakeries that dotted the route.
There are fewer migratory birds these days as well. Until a while back the areas surrounding Madiwala Lake had a lot of birds come around, which has lessened and now you see birds on terraces instead. We even saw water snakes on the banks of the lake, and we’d give them names, like Ka from Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book.
Personally, since I’m a massive food lover, I like to go to Fanoos to grab a roll and then head to Makkah cafe in Johnson Market, where I can sit with a suleimani tea and chat with people. Being a nature lover, I also enjoy trips to Bannerghatta National Park when I can. And there’s nothing like a trip to South Bengaluru for some authentic idli, vada, and dosa.
It is true that Bengaluru has become very commercial and industrial, but that has also led to it gaining in infrastructure and opportunity. There are so many options for youngsters here.
As told to Sooraj Rajmohan
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Life & Style – Insider / by Sooraj Rajmohan / October 03rd, 2018
The kallupallis are reminders of the region’s cultural and architectural traditions
Among the many inscriptions at the Vaishnavite shrine of Adhi Jagannatha Swamy at Thirupullani, about 10 km from Ramanathapuram in southern Tamil Nadu, there is one about a grant for a mosque. This particular inscription of the late 13th Century by the Pandya King Thirubuvana Chakravarthy Koneri Mei Kondan, describes the grant made to the Muslim Sonagar, to build a mosque at Pavithramanikka Pattinam. While no one today has a clue as to the exact location of Pavithramanikka Pattinam, the region has many ancient mosques like the rest of Tamil Nadu. What is unique about these mosques is that they were all built of stone, in the Dravidian architectural style with Islamic sensibilities.
Unlike north India, Islam came to the south through maritime spice trade even as it was spreading across Arabia in the 7th Century. The Muslims who were traders enriched the country with precious foreign exchange, and hence were accorded a special place by the Tamil rulers of the day, and often received grants to build mosques, like the one at the Adhi Jagannatha Swamy temple.
As mosques are called Palli Vaasal in Tamil, and they were built of kal, the Tamil word for stone, they came to be locally known as kallupallis. These kallupalliswere essentially built more like mandapams, better suited to Islamic requirement for the congregation to assemble and stand together in prayer.
With guidelines for the construction of mosques being simple – such as prayer facing Mecca, no idol worship and clean surroundings, the masons who worked on these mosques under the supervision of religious heads restricted themselves to carving floral and geometrical motifs instead of human figures as in a temple. “While the raised ‘Adisthana’ of the Hindu temple was retained, there were no ‘Garbha Grahas’ and no figurines carved on any of the pillars” says Dr.Raja Mohammad, author of Islamic Architecture in Tamil Nadu.
For more than a millennium, hundreds of such mosques built in the Dravidian Islamic architectural style came up across Tamil Nadu, often with the help of grants from the rulers of the day, ranging from the Cheras, the Pandyas, the Venad kings and the Nayaks to the Sethupathis of Ramanathapuram. Across Tamil Nadu, wherever Tamil Muslims lived in large numbers, from Pulicat near Chennai to Kilakarai, Kayalpatnam, Kadayanallur, Kottar, Tiruvithancode, Madurai, etc., one finds these beautiful kallupallis.
Amongst these kallupallis, though not the oldest, the most beautiful mosque is to be found at Kilakarai, near Ramanathapuram. A medieval port town with a predominant Tamil Muslim population, Kilakarai has many mosques built during different eras spanning many centuries. The one built towards the end of 17th Century is the most beautiful of them all. It is believed to have been built by the great merchant and philanthropist Periathambi Marakkayar, also known as Seethakkathi, whom the Dutch records speak of as a great trader having considerable influence with the Sethupathis, the then rulers of Ramanathapuram.
The mosque built in the Dravidian architectural style of the late Vijayanagara period, has elements that are specific to native traditions. Like many other kallupallis, this mosque too has Podhigai, the floral bud detailing on the pillar corbels, which represent positivity and auspiciousness, an essential part of the cultural beliefs of the land. An interesting engraving found in this mosque is the Tamil calendar for prayer.
What is unusual about this calendar is that, timings for prayers in the various Tamil months are marked in Tamil numerals, a rarity, found in just a few other mosques in southern Tamil Nadu.
These mosques, deeply embedded in the Tamil culture, were also places where Tamil flowered. Further down south, at the Kottar mosque in Nagercoil, an early Tamil Islamic literary work, Mikuraasu Malai, was presented to the assembled congregation by Aali Pulavar in the late 16th Century.
Mikuraasu is a Tamilised form of Mihraj, and narrates a significant event in the life of Prophet Muhammad (Pbuh), his ascension to the heaven. Even after 400 odd years, the tradition of singing Mikurasu Malai on the eve of Mihraj continues to this day at the Kottar mosque. Other literary works such as Seera Puranam, a Tamil epic on the history of the Prophet, are also recited across mosques in Tamil Nadu.
The Kallupallis in Tamil Nadu stand as proud reminders of not just an architectural tradition but also of cultural traditions, where Islam effortlessly adapted itself to the native customs.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Society> History & Culture – Anwar’s Trail / by Kombai S. Anwar / November 23rd, 2017
In 18th century Kutch, walls were painted with stories. They survive today in only three places
On the fissured walls of the magnificent Tera fort in Gujarat’s Kutch district the story of the Ramayana springs to life in vivid colour: there is Sita on a pyre, Ram raining arrows on Ravana.
Kamangari bhint chitro or wall paintings was once a thriving art form in Kutch, used to embellish the palaces and homes of the affluent. The themes were as diverse as the patron’s tastes, but were predominantly mythological, with scenes from the Ramayana or Krishna Leela. Royal processions was another favourite. The landscape was another rich source of material, and date palms and peacocks and scenes from everyday life were common.
Today, only bits and pieces of this rich art are preserved in a few homes, temples, and on Tera fort. But if you were to string these together chronologically, history would come alive in a lyrical manner.
Back to its origin
Kamangari art originated in the 18th century. “It was a relatively peaceful time; there were no battles, and it was a conducive environment for travel and trade,” says Pradip Zaveri, a Vadodara-based businessman, known for documenting Kamangari. During this time, the Kamangars, a Muslim community from northern Kutch who traditionally made bows and arrows (kaman means bow) and painted shields, travelled to the rest of the region.
Soon the affluent Bhatia and Jain communities commissioned the Kamangars to paint their homes, giving birth to the art form. Such artistic embellishment on walls was traditionally seen as auspicious in Kutch.
A folk art
One of the finest examples of Kamangari art is in Aina Mahal, an 18th century palace in Bhuj. Here, the corridor is painted with a 47 feet scroll titled Nagpanchami Ashwari, by Kamangar artist Juma Ebrahim. The scroll begins with a royal procession with a mounted Arab cavalier, Arab soldiers, a cannon drawn by a pair of bullocks, a chariot of the family deity, and a group of camel riders. In the middle of the scroll is Maharao Shri Pragmalji II on a caparisoned elephant. The ethnicity of every individual is represented by their costume.
The paintbrushes were made from the bark of the local date palm, and the colours sourced from tree bark, flowers and stones. The artists would paint on wet plaster to ensure permanence.
For all its beauty, says Zaveri, Kamangari does not appear to have a consistent style. “If you look at two paintings, you will see the difference in the treatment and rendering. For example, the lines on wall paintings are thicker than those in the scrolls. In some places, flowers are used to fill gaps — like in a temple in Anjar — but in other places this is missing.”
Artists essentially followed their patron’s instructions. As the rich traders who commissioned this art travelled abroad, the art saw changes too. “The artists were given postcards from these places, and they would then draw characters inspired from the West but wearing a Kutchi pagdi, or the women would have long skirts,” Zaveri says.
In a Jain temple in the Abdasa taluka of Kutch, a man is shown wearing a hat but in a dhoti and long coat. Some later paintings depict British soldiers in uniform. Others have aeroplanes, rail engines, and even a game of cricket.
At the bungalow of James MacMurdo in Anjar, the first political resident of the East Indian Company in Kutch, you can see Krishna and the Gopis dressed in the traditional attire of the Rabari community, complete with the nath (nose-ring). Much of the work also showed influences of the Mughal and Rajasthani styles.
The decline
According to Zaveri, Kamangari was popular until the early 20th century. Then, around the time of the Great Depression, its patrons began to migrate out of Kutch, and homes were locked up or abandoned. The murals degenerated and new occupants painted over them. The Kamangari artists turned to other livelihoods.
“The 2001 Kutch earthquake dealt another severe blow; many houses that had the last few paintings came down,” says Zaveri. Now there are only three places in Kutch with well-preserved Kamangari — the fort in Tera, MacMurdo’s bungalow in Anjar, and an ancestral home in Mundra, belonging to Kalubhai Vaghela.
There have been some feeble attempts by the government to revive the art, but more promising is a new project. Dalpat Danidharia, a librarian at Bhuj’s Prag Mahal, a 19th century palace, says: “Some of us who are passionate about saving Kamangari from disappearing from public memory are working on commissioning artists to create replicas.” The aim, he says, is to let everyone experience this vibrant Kutchi heritage before it’s lost forever.
When not researching new stories, the Gujarat-based freelance journalist likes spinning tales for her toddler.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Society> History & Culture / by Azera Parveen Rahman / September 29th, 2018
Reminiscing a slow but stimulating journey to Akbar’s capital city
When Marion and Sally, two English teachers of St Thomas’ School, Mandir Marg, set out on a trip to Fatehpur Sikri in 1978, they boarded the last train from Delhi. “It sounds ominous, like the last plane from Da Nang, when South Vietnam was overrun by the Viet Minh,” remarked Sally, “Yes,” recalled Marion. “Many struggled to board the plane. Some were left behind but in the melee an enterprising Western reporter was not only able to capture the heart-wrenching scene, but also played the hero by helping a hysterical woman and her kid take his seat on the plane as he jumped down to shoot what later turned out to be award-winning pictures of the airport scramble.”
The last train from Old Delhi station did not cause any such frenzied commotion. Over 40 years ago it was the one that was supposed to leave just before midnight, but the departure was invariably delayed. From Delhi Main station it ran up to Agra Cantt, its destination, and took seven hours to do so, usually even more. The passenger train had a whole lot of policemen travelling in it. As a matter of fact, right from the ticket window they made their presence felt when they pulled suspicious-looking youths out of the queue and slapped and punched them before asking questions like, “Where are you going? Where did you get the money to buy the ticket? Are you drunk? Who else is travelling along with you? Where do you live?” before searching them with their shirts off and pants down,” the two teachers recalled.
When they caught the train they didn’t see those young men again. The train made three false starts, provoking someone to remark that the driver was shaking the compartments to fit in more passengers. Finally it started rolling, with several urchins rushing to catch it. By the time the train reached New Delhi station it was nearly 1 a.m. After that the Passenger stopped at every station big or small and as people got down, many were detained and searched by policemen on the platform. But the two girls reached Agra Cantt station safely. From there they were escorted by friends Sam, Lewis and this scribe by car to Sikri.
The shrine at Fatehpur Sikri is one of the most venerated places. Where wild animals once roamed a gem of a monument now greets the eye,” disclosed Sam. “It was here on a hill that Sheikh Salim Chisti dwelt and thither came Akbar the Great to seek his help for the birth of a son and heir apparent. He came on foot, leaving his camels, elephants and horses behind. The hermit sat with a rosary (tasbi) reciting the 99 names of Allah. The emperor’s prayers were heard and his Rajput queen bore a son, Salim, whom Akbar always called Sheikhu Baba, after the saint. Not only that, he built this magnificent city to commemorate the event and dwelt here with his Nine Jewels, like the Nine Worthies of the ancient world. “I have heard about the Nine Jewels,” said Marion, “but who were the Nine Worthies?” “Hector, Alexander the Great, JuliusCaesar, Joshua, David, Judas Maccabaeus, King Arthur, Charlemagne and Godfrey of Bouillon,” replied Sam without batting an eyelid.
Akbar’s legacy
Sam related his tale standing by Sally’s side. She listened, her doe eyes thoughtful. As they approached the trellis of the shrine where people who seek favours tie a thread, she tied one too, making Sam wonder what she had sought. They next went to the Buland Darwaza and saw the town of Sikri spread out before them. Nearby is the water works set up by Akbar and from above the ramparts a man dived 80 feet into the baoli or step-well. They looked aghast. “Just you wait and see,” said Sam as Lewis nodded in approval. Soon a dare-devil emerged and salaam-ed them. They tipped him and he walked away to prepare for another demonstration. “These divers have been continuing the tradition for several centuries. VIPs and common people alike tip them. Perhaps, it will continue so long as there is water in the baoli. But it is a paradox that Akbar, who built a new capital here, had to desert it because of water scarcity.” Sam informed the party. They went down the steps of Buland Darwaza, Sam pointing out the Hiran Minar from where the shikar was shot in Mughal times, though some think that Akbar’s famous elephant was buried there and perhaps that’s why it is also called Elephant Tower.
At Sikri town they had the fabulous 24-layer Mughalia parantha. “Why is this parantha so thick?” enquired Marion. “It could feed one whole family.” “Quite right,” said Sam. “Ask Sally, when we were last here she had to take half the parantha to Delhi where we had it for breakfast the next day and the remainder for lunch.”
“Did Akbar really play with women as chess pieces? “enquired Sally.” Off course he did,” replied Sam. “Don’t talk rubbish. Listening to you one would imagine the great Akbar had nothing else to do but seduce maids of honour”, admonished Lewis. From there the party went to the Taj Mahal and then caught the Taj Express back to Delhi after a memorable day. Marion and Sally are now back in England and Sam works in Bangalore, where Lewis keeps reminding him of the visit whenever he rings up from Kolkata.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Society> History & Culture – Down Memory Lane / by R.V. Smith / October 01st, 2018
Starting with the white coins, Ghufran quickly settled into a rhythm
Kajal Kumari and Mohd. Ghufran, both representing Petroleum Sports Promotion Board (PSPB), registered contrasting wins to bag the women’s singles and men’s singles crowns respectively in the LIC of India sponsored 24th Federation Cup All India Carrom Championship, organized by the All India Carrom Federation and hosted by the Maharashtra Carrom Association, at the Halari Visa Oswal Samaj Hall, Dadar (East).
In the women’s final Kajal played fluently and was in complete control and went on to score an authoritative 25-13, 25-12 victory against Aisha Mohd of Jain Irrigation. On the other hand, Ghufran started with a flourish, but later faced quite a strong challenge from World Champion Prashant More of Reserve Bank of India before scraping through by a close 25-13, 12-25, 22-19 scoreline in a tense and thrilling men’s final showdown.
Starting with the white coins, Ghufran quickly settled into a rhythm. Showing calm and steady nerves, he exhibited good control with his shots to grab the upper hand by pocketing the first game against the current world champion More.
The Mumbai-based More, backed by a large gathering of local vociferous supporters, did not disappointment them as he bounced back into contention with some steady and clever play, taking the second game to force the third game.
In the decider, the scores ran close, before More raced to a 19-11 lead at the end of the sixth board. But the local player made a couple of mistakes and missed opportunities in the next which his rival cashed in to narrow the gap to 18-19 going into the final board. In the last board, both players were nervous and started to miss simple shots before Ghufran managed to steadily pocket the queen and his coins to win four points which helped him win the contest 22-19 and emerge champion.
In the men’s doubles competition, which was a fight between PSPB pairs, K.Srinivas and Sandeep Deorukhkar rallied from the loss of the first game to overcome Yogesh Pardeshi and K. Ramesh Babu 22-25, 25-16, 25-15 to emerge champions.
The women’s doubles final also contested between PSPB pairs, witnessed a similar trend as Nagajyoti and I. Ilavazhki, after tamely losing the opening game, gave a strong fighting reply to brush aside the challenge from Rashmi Kumari and Kajal Kumari (PSPB) 4-25, 25-11, 25-7.
Wockhardt’s Habil Khorakiwala has looked crisis in the eye, and come out of it stronger
“In your darkest hour you have two options: One, you get overwhelmed by the massive extent of the problem and it paralyses you from any action; the other, you anticipate the worst case scenario and deal with it the best way you can. I choose the latter.” This choice—to fight back and swim against all odds—has brought Dr Habil Khorakiwala, 73, back from the brink. Twice.
The first time was in 2008. Wockhardt was incorporated in 1967 and had done well for itself, growing steadily into one of India’s leading pharmaceutical companies. But, during the heady days of the stock market boom of the mid-noughties, it had bet heavily on foreign exchange and derivatives. The global financial meltdown caught many—including Khorakiwala—unawares: Cross-country derivative deals unravelled and Wockhardt declared a loss of Rs 1,000 crore in FY10. The company experienced near bankruptcy and speculation was rife that it will be sold out.
Enough to rattle the toughest businessman, perhaps. But not Khorakiwala: “I anticipate the worst possible outcome and see if I can live with it. This frees me up to take action.” When he realised that it was indeed a worst-case scenario, he “moved to the next step in figuring out how to reduce the impact, and steps needed for it,” he tells Forbes India.
He had to deal with more than 20 different banks and master the complex world of derivatives. He began by acquiring the knowledge he needed, legal and financial, to deal with the ailment; he read books and consulted experts across the globe, then armed with better understanding, he worked assiduously to resuscitate the company.
He went in for a CDR (Corporate Debt Restructuring) exercise, and made two major divestments: The profitable nutrition business (brands such as Farex and Protinex) to dairy giant Danone for about Rs 1,280 crore, almost 25 times Ebitda; and the veterinary pharmaceuticals business to a French company, Vetoquinol (the price was not disclosed). These funds helped him reduce debt substantially.
Also, at this time, the Wockhardt Hospitals venture that he had built with his own money (it is not connected to the listed pharmaceutical entity) had begun unravelling. Debt had piled up due to borrowings-led scaling up and expansion across India. Khorakiwala decided to swallow another bitter pill: In August 2009, he sold 10 of the most profitable hospitals—from the 17 in the chain at that time—in cities like Delhi and Bengaluru, to Fortis Healthcare. Khorakiwala is phlegmatic about this phase: “It is not a mental or emotional barrier for me to hold on to [companies].”
What worked in his favour was that their pharmaceuticals were doing well. This helped him convince his creditors and Wockhardt’s dealers and distributors to not give up on the company. The family also communicated with employees during the crisis. All of which helped stem attrition at the top as well as keep the core business largely unaffected.
Habil’s son, Dr Murtaza Khorakiwala, 43, who is managing director of the pharmaceutical business sums it up: “What the company was facing was a financial issue, not a business issue, and financial issues are transient.”
There wasn’t much time to enjoy the fruits of these labours, however. In 2013, two of Wockhardt’s drug manufacturing facilities in Aurangabad, Maharashtra were the subject of import alerts from both the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the UK’s Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (UKMHRA). Naturally exports, 80 percent of Wockhardt’s Rs 5,721 crore revenue in FY13 (half of which came from exports to US), took a large hit, falling to Rs 4,830 crore in FY14.
Wockhardt took corrective steps immediately, improving technology and raising quality standards across all its manufacturing facilities in India and abroad (Ireland, UK, USA). The UKMHRA has now eased restrictions on one of the plants, while the US FDA has re-inspected the facilities.
A side-effect of the export crisis was that the Khorakiwalas and the management team paid more attention to building the India business, which has, over the last two years, grown at a compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of more than 30 percent.
The cumulative effect of both crises and the way the company reacted to them has made it a leaner, healthier enterprise. Murtaza Khorakiwala says that they have focussed more on operational efficiencies to do “more and more with less and less”. Optimisation drives in all plants and offices helped reduce operating costs: Every line item was carefully looked into, staff across all departments rallied to cut any wasteful expenditure they came across. People cost, as a percentage of sales, came down from 15 percent to about 11 percent over the last three years.
One spend hasn’t been cut, however: R&D. Khorakiwala launched Wockhardt’s drug discovery programmes 15 years ago, and budgets have never been cut even during the company’s toughest financial years, because, he says, “I always believe it’s a long-term gain. Never sacrifice any part of the future to save the present.”
No action, he says, is trouble-free; even inaction has a cost. “Running a business will lead to problems. Don’t run away from it. Have discipline and work at it.”
The tenacity and calm in times of crisis are traits that define him. This is also what his colleagues and friends often single out about him. And these qualities have inspired, and rubbed off on, the next generation.
Daughter Zahabiya Khorakiwala (33), who is managing director of Wockhardt Hospitals, says her father remained as cool as a cucumber throughout the troubled years: “He is a fighter and will never resign [himself] to any situation because he firmly believes that every problem has a solution.”
Mentored by her father, Zahabiya has opened two new hospitals (to add to the seven left after the sale to Fortis), and taken revenues from Rs 180 crore in FY10 to Rs 350 crore in FY15. With the most recent launch, a hospital in South Mumbai, she personally looked into every detail, from the dozens of permissions required to run a 300-bed hospital to recruiting the surgeons, doctors and specialists. She follows the principles that her father espouses; with hospitals, he says, financial success is secondary, “Establishing a benchmark in clinical care is more important.”
For the Khorakiwalas, a business family, social responsibility is deeply ingrained. They owned Akbarallys, which was originally India’s first true department store. Habil’s father, Fakhruddin Khorakiwala, had bought Worli Chemical Works (which was later renamed Wockhardt)as part of a backward integration plan for the pharmacy in Akbarallys. A busy man, Fakhruddin Khorakiwala made time to serve as Sheriff of what was then Bombay. Habil Khorakiwala made CSR activities a regular part of his agenda, and in 2008, he merged all those activities into a formal entity, the Wockhardt Foundation. This was partly prompted by his eldest son, Dr Huzaifa Khorakiwala (44).
An MBA from Yale, Huzaifa had worked with Wockhardt’s international operations in the US and later the UK, before returning to India to work alongside his father in India, handling the veterinary pharmaceuticals business which was sold in 2008. Always spiritual, he had read many religious books and developed a desire for care-giving. “My son walked up to me in 2008 and said, ‘I want to focus on the Foundation work, and don’t mind spending more time on it.’ I said, ‘go ahead and do it.’” Huzaifa became CEO and trustee of Wockhardt Foundation.
The foundation raises its funds not just from Wockhardt, but also from other organisations seeking to conduct professionally-run CSR activities. It employs 300 people and runs a number of activities. Its 60 mobile medical vans—fitted with the latest equipment, stocked with necessary medicines and staffed by experienced doctors—provide healthcare in remote villages and areas in ten Indian states; corporations can sponsor these vans in return for branding, and they get regular reports on the operations and number of people it has helped. It has also built 1,000 clean toilets in villages, started 25 toy libraries to encourage children to read and absorb good values (an initiative spearheaded by Huzaifa’s wife Samina), and has started an e-learning project to cover 200 schools in Thane, Aurangabad and Rajasthan. From a Rs 1.8 crore corpus in 2008, the foundation has raised Rs 70 crore as of FY15. Huzaifa plans to ramp up activities over the next three years; he wants to expand to 300 mobile medical vans and build 3,000 toilets.
The senior Khorakiwala has good reason to look back on the last few years with a wry smile. In 2012, he was the biggest gainer in the Forbes India Rich List, adding $1.17 billion to his net worth and moving up 47 places in the rankings. The problems with the US and UK pharma regulators later that year saw Wockhardt’s share prices plummet, as did his position on the Rich List: He lost $1.09 billion and dropped 56 places.
Today, he has triumphed against adversity, and come back stronger. His children have come into their own and are growing the family business, in their own ways. He has created value for both his shareholders and the community.
And there’s the little matter of his personal wealth. Wockhardt share prices have surged, and the 74.39 percent promoter and promoter group stake has resulted in a considerably heavier bank balance: His personal wealth went up by $580 million, placing him at 59 in the 2015 Forbes India Rich List. As he likes to say, “If you do the right thing, it will lead to good business.”
(This story appears in the 29 October, 2015 issue of Forbes India. You can buy our tablet version from Magzter.com . To visit our Archives, click here.)
source: http://www.forbesindia.com / Forbes India / Home> Lists> India Rich List 2015 / by Deepak Ajwani / November 27th, 2015