Mumbai, MAHARASHTRA :

In a narrow lane, Burhanpur Mawa Jalebi is a 4×4 sq ft shop, no bigger than a kiosk.

Tight coils of pale yellow turn dark brown within minutes. As soon as they rise to the surface in the kadhai of hot oil, cooked to their thick core, Mohammed Hussain scoops them out with a frying ladle and deposits them in a shallow dish of thick sugar syrup. Immediately, the customers that have, until now, been watching Hussain intently, close in for the mawa jalebi.

During the month of Ramzan, Mohammed Ali Road in Mumbai wears a festive look. By 6 pm, the air is thick with a mix of aromas as all shops and stalls in the Khau Galli light up with fairy lights. Walk down the crowded lane and one notices that the jalebi is curiously missing from the scene. “That is because Mohammed Ali Road has only one jalebi shop, and not the regular variety but mawa jalebi, available at Burhanpur Mawa Jalebi,” says the cashier at Suleman Usman Mithaiwala, which sits at the Khau Galli junction.

In a narrow lane, Burhanpur Mawa Jalebi is a 4×4 sq ft shop, no bigger than a kiosk. Hussain and his brothers Mohammed Yusuf and Mohammed Hissar cater to the thickening crowd. “Mawa jalebi is a specialty from Madhya Pradesh,” says Yusuf between taking orders. “Our shop introduced Mumbai to this sweet, which is distinct,” he adds.

Made using mawa, arrowroot and milk, it is closer to gulab jamun in taste. “Its crispness comes from arrowroot, which gives the batter a better hold. Unlike the other jalebi, this doesn’t have the tinge of sour taste,” says Hussain.

Burhanpur Mawa Jalebi was started a decade ago by his uncle Nooruddin. “The recipe is original, passed on by a karigar in Mathura to our maternal grandfather,” says Hussain. This shop is a branch of the original, which has been in Burhanpur, for 45 years.

Open from 3 pm to 3 am during Ramzan and till midnight on other days, Burhanpur Mawa Jalebi prices its specialty at Rs 240 a kg. “With a hike in the rates of mawa and other ingredients, we will increase its price after Ramzan,” says Yusuf. Why not during the festive season, when they are bound to do good business? “Ramzan is a holy month; a time to reflect, cleanse self and do good. Acting greedy will bring us sin,” says Yusuf. Upon hearing the azaan at the nearby Minara Masjid, he takes a break and heads in the direction. It is time for namaaz before he breaks his fast.

source: http://www.indianexpress.com / The Indian Express / Home> Lifestyle / by Dipti Nagpaul D’Souza, Mumbai / July 09th, 2015