A view of the Indian Bank headquarters on Rajaji Salai / Photo : R. RAGU
The Indian Bank recently launched its commemoration of its 100th year of business. But this month’s centenary is that of the collapse of Arbuthnot & Co., out of whose ruins there arose the Indian Bank.
The story of Arbuthnot’s and the bank that it ran has been narrated in this column before. Late last year, as the centenary year began, one part of it – the legal proceedings that followed – were narrated in detail in “the first full-length book on this spectacular financial catastrophe”, The Fall of Arbuthnot & Co., by Dr. Rangaswamy Srinivasan (EastWest Books). Today, I recall some of the key dates involved in the death of one bank and the birth of a new one.
It was on October 20, 1906, that P. Macfadyen, Arbuthnot’s correspondent and associate in Britain, committed suicide. On October 22, Arbuthnot’s petitioned the court to be declared insolvent and The Hindu reported that “a regular panic had taken hold of (the disappointed Creditors) and a rush was made to the High Court… “
V. Krishnaswami Aiyer, a young vakil at the time, taking his cue from a letter that had appeared in The Hindu, got together eight other like-minded persons and on November 2, 1906, they sent out a circular inviting the public’s views on the possibility of starting “a Native Bank in Madras”. Encouraged by the response they got, they called a public meeting on December 2 that was attended by 28 of the leading citizens of Madras. Out of these and subsequent deliberations emerged The Indian Bank Limited, registered on March 5, 1907 and opening its doors in Parry’s building on August 15th that year.
That Indian Bank was the second Indian bank to be established in Madras.
The first, the Madras Central Urban Cooperative Bank, was established on September 16, 1905. Other Indian banks, however, had been founded in the Madras Presidency before these two. They included the Tanjore Permanent Fund, now the Thanjavur Bank, started in 1901; the South Indian Bank, started in Tirunelveli in 1903; and the predecessor of the present City Union Bank, Kumbakonam, in 1904. Also predating the Indian Bank were the Canara Banking Corporation, Udipi, now the Corporation Bank, and the Canara Hindu Permanent Fund, now the Canara Bank, both started in 1906.
The eight who signed the circular Krishnaswami Aiyer drafted were :
H. Mohamed Abdul Azeez Badshah Saheb, Senior Partner of the firm with the same name andHony. Consul for Turkey; Muraleedoss; T. Seetharama Chetty, Senior Partner of Moses & Co.; M.A. Kuddus Badshah Saheb; M. Jamal Mohideen and Co.; V. Bashyam Iyengar, High Court vakil and a former Judge of the Court; and P.R. Sundara Iyer, High Court vakil.
When the Bank was floated, its first Directors included four of these signatories – Seetharama Chetty, Azeez Badshah, Muraleedoss (Ramdoss) and Krishnaswami Aiyer.
Their fellow Directors were Lodd Govindoss, C.P. Ramaswami Aiyar, a High Court vakil at the time; Dewan Bahadur M. Adinarayanan Iyer, retired Deputy Settlement Commissioner; and two Nattukottai Chettiars, Rm.M.St. Chidambaram Chettiar and Dewan Bahadur S.Rm.M. Ramaswamy Chettiar, representing the community which substantially funded the Bank.
Ramaswamy Chettiar was the elder brother of Annamalai Chettiar who was to receive the title Rajah and who was to play a major role in the bank in his later years.
Of the 74 Directors of Bank up to nationalisation in 1969, thirty were Nattukottai Chettiars.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu – The Metro Plus Chennai, Online edition / October 09th, 2006
The trade, commerce, politics, and history of south India have been shaped by several powerful individuals and families.
The proprietor of the mica mines examines the accounts at the Kuddusabad camp
Chennai :
The trade, commerce, politics, and history of south India have been shaped by several powerful individuals and families. Among the names that made it to the list, the Badsha family — members of the Urdu Muslim mercantile elite — were one of the leaders in extending business relationships to places like Arabia, Egypt and Japan.
In a tete-a-tete with the fourth-generation descendants, Faiz Badsha Sayeed and Faud Badsha Sayeed, we find out more about perhaps one of the oldest families to establish a strong base in Triplicane, their life in the Madras Presidency and their omnipresence in south Indian history.
Hand-drawn carts were taken up hills and through jungles to reach the mica mines
By 1819, Haji Mohammed Badsha Sahib established their family firm — a textile company, Messrs H Mohammed Badsha Sahib & Co.
By the early 20th century, the family also became leading importers of Manchester cotton goods and exported indigo, tamarind, mica and Madras cotton piece goods to Britain. “He was one of the richest businessmen in South…he was also giving and god fearing. If we, his great-grandchildren are doing well in life, I believe it is because of all the good deeds our ancestors did,” he said, adding that his great-grandfather, was also known as ‘Mallikutujar’, the head of merchants.
He hands us a picture of a man clad in a tunic and turban, and says, “That’s our grandfather, MA Khuddus Badsha Sahib, the seventh son of Haji Mohammed Badsha. My grandfather and his brother Abdul Azeez Badsha Sahib, were born in the building located in Vallabha Agraharam Street — the Broadlands lodging house which was previously the Turkish Consulate in Madras. Our great grandfather built it in the 1800s,” shares Faiz with a child-like enthusiasm.
After H Mohammed Badsha Sahib’s retirement in the early 1870s, his sons took over his business. The duo, Abdul Azeez Badsha and Khuddus Badsha, served as the Consul and Vice-Consul at the Turkish Consulate in Madras and were popularly known as the ‘Badsha brothers’ and epitomised leadership. “My grandfather purchased the area constituting Triplicane-Wallajah Road, Khas Mahal – ‘The Old palaces of Nawabs’ while Abdul Azeez Badsha Sahib purchased the entire Gemini complex. Some of the fourth-generation descendants still live in and around the area,” he says.
Faiz shares that Khuddus Badhsa owned a piece of land in Mecca. “Unlike Azeez Badsha, my grandfather never performed the Haj but, he sent my grandmother along with my father to perform the Haj. After they returned, she fell ill and requested my grandfather to build a tap in the zamzam well in Mecca. After a lot of back and forth through telegrams, the tap was finally built and shortly after that, my grandmother passed away. That was probably her last wish,” he says.
He hands us a sheet which reads, ‘No more loyal subject of the King-Emperor or more respected Member of the Mohammadan Community will be the guest of the Madras government at Delhi for the Imperial Coronation Durbar’. “Our grandfather was invited to the Imperial Durbar between the late 19th century and early 20th century. He, along with his brother, actively took part in several organisations and they were philanthropists,” he says. The Government of India even conferred Azeez Badsha Sahib with the title of ‘Khan Bahadur’ in recognition of his public services.
From being the trustee of the Madras Port Trust, vice-president of the South Indian Chamber of Commerce to the vice-president of the South Indian Athletics Association, Khuddus Badsha wore many hats. “He was also one of the founders of the Indian bank,” shares Faud.
Khuddus Badsha bought thousands of acres of land across the south. While some were turned to cultivation lands or passed on to the next generation, most are under court litigation. “After land reforms and the abolition of zamindari system, a huge portion of the land was taken by the government,” he says.
Over the years, the descendants have shown little evidence of their past glory, living a simple and unassuming life. “My father and his siblings took to other professions.
He was a doctor and one of his siblings was a barrister, who was tutored by Dr Radhakrishnan!
We have our daily jobs and live a normal yet happy life. We have learned to work hard and be giving, especially towards those who are less privileged,” shares Faiz.
Mica business Khuddus Badsha possessed several ‘Shrotriems’, ‘Jaghris’, diamond mines and was a pioneer in the mica industry. He owned mines in Pinnamitta, Chennur and Khuddusabad, a village in Nellore district named after him. “Mica exhibitions were curated, and he also ran a Mica showroom in Triplicane. The Wallajah Mosque compound is where the factory/mica workshop manufactured mica daily basis. We even found bits of Mica in the house’s well,” shares Faiz.
source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> Chennai / by Roshne Balasubramanian / September 27th, 2013
Ex bureaucrat Moosa Raza has passed away in Chennai on Thursday. He was 87. He is survived by his son and two daughters.
Moosa Raza’s life is a testament to dedication, integrity, and a deep-rooted commitment to public service. Born on 27th February 1937 in Minambur, a small village in Tamil Nadu, India, Moosa Raza’s journey from humble beginnings to becoming a respected bureaucrat and prolific writer is marked by his unwavering principles and tireless efforts to make a positive impact on society.
Education played a pivotal role in shaping Moosa Raza’s worldview. He displayed exceptional academic prowess from a young age, graduating with a Bachelor of Arts (Honours) degree in English Language and Literature from Madras Presidency College, now Presidency College, Chennai. His academic achievements were exceptional, winning seven college medals across various disciplines. This included a First Class First in his degree, a testament to his dedication and intellectual acumen.
In 1958, Moosa Raza embarked on a dual path of academia and civil service. He was appointed as an Assistant Professor of English at Presidency College, his alma mater, while also preparing for the prestigious Indian Administrative Service (IAS) examinations. His commitment to both teaching and public service underscored his multifaceted talents and passion for contributing to society.
In 1960, Moosa Raza’s dedication paid off as he was selected for the Indian Administrative Service for Gujarat in his first attempt. This marked the beginning of a distinguished career that spanned over three decades and left an indelible mark on India’s administrative landscape.
Throughout his career, Moosa Raza held several key positions that showcased his leadership abilities and commitment to public welfare. He served as Collector and District Magistrate in various districts of Gujarat, managing critical responsibilities such as flood relief operations and drought management with unparalleled dedication and effectiveness. His tenure as Principal Secretary to the Chief Minister of Gujarat and later as Chief Secretary of Jammu and Kashmir demonstrated his administrative acumen in handling complex governance challenges.
Moosa Raza’s contributions extended beyond government service. He played pivotal roles in prestigious industrial and commercial enterprises, including chairing the National Textiles Corporation and Gujarat State Fertilizers Company Ltd. His strategic leadership helped turn around struggling enterprises, saving thousands of jobs and contributing to Gujarat’s industrial growth.
In recognition of his exemplary service and contributions to society, Moosa Raza was awarded the Padma Bhushan in 2010, one of India’s highest civilian honors. This prestigious accolade is a testament to his lasting impact and dedication to public welfare.
Apart from his illustrious bureaucratic career, Moosa Raza is also a celebrated author. His book “Of Nawabs and Nightingales” offers a glimpse into his early experiences in the Indian Administrative Service, showcasing his keen observations and insights into governance and society. He has also authored books on spirituality and personal reflections, such as “In Search of Oneness” and “Khwab-e-Natamaam” (Incomplete Dreams), showcasing his diverse literary interests and philosophical depth.
Moosa Raza’s contributions go beyond professional achievements. He has been actively involved in educational initiatives, serving as the chairman of the South Indian Educational Trust (S.I.E.T.) and supporting initiatives for women’s education, dyslexic children, and communal harmony.
In his personal life, Moosa Raza is a devoted husband and father, exemplifying the values of family and community that underpin his life’s work.
Moosa Raza’s journey from a small village in Tamil Nadu to a revered bureaucrat, accomplished author, and dedicated advocate for societal progress embodies the essence of service, leadership, and intellectual pursuit. His life and legacy continue to inspire generations, reminding us of the transformative power of individuals committed to making a positive difference in the world.
source: http://www.muslimmirror.com / Muslim Mirror / Home> Indian Muslim> Obituary / by Muslim Mirror / May 08th, 2024
Nimrah Ali receiving Gold Medals and certificates of merit from Shri R.N. Ravi, Governor of Tamil Nadu on February 24, 2024
Chennai :
Nimrah Ali, wife of Hasnain Ahmed, has been honored with two prestigious Gold Medals and certificates of merit, the Tamil Nadu Dr. Ambedkar Law University Gold Medal Award and the Justice Subbiah Ratnavel Pandian Gold Medal Award from Madras Bar Association, for achieving the 1st Rank in the 5-Year B.Com. LL.B. (Hons.) Degree course at the Tamil Nadu Dr. Ambedkar Law University’s 13th Convocation held on February 24.
She was also awarded the P.B. Sanjana Endowment Scholarship cash prize and certificate of merit for her exceptional performance.
The above awards were presented to her by Shri R.N. Ravi, Governor of Tamil Nadu, in the presence of Mr. R. Venkataramani, Attorney General of India, a distinguished Constitutional Lawyer and Senior Advocate at the Supreme Court of India, Mr. S. Regupathy, Minister of Law, Courts, Prisons, and Prevention of Corruption of Tamil Nadu amongst other distinguished dignitaries.
In addition, she cleared ICSI (Institute of Company Secretary of India) course on the first attempt.
The awards recognize her outstanding accomplishment as the top-ranked law student at the prestigious Law University School of Excellence in Law, The Tamil Nadu Dr. Ambedkar Law University, Chennai.
She belongs to the illustrious Nawab of Arcot family.
source: http://www.radiancenews.com / Radiance News / Home> Pride of the Nation> Awards / by Radiance News Bureau / February 28th, 2024
The President, Smt. Pratibha Devisingh Patil presenting the Padma Shri Award to Prof. (Dr.) M. Ahmed Ali, at an Investiture Ceremony II, at Rashtrapati Bhavan, in New Delhi on April 01, 2011./ pix: en.wikipedia.org
Dr. Ahmed Ali can perhaps scale Mount Everest to gain knowledge in surgery, and will come back to serve the poor and needy. That is the thirst he has, and the skill gained by his extra ordinary, photographic memory power.
After obtaining the highest degree in surgery such as M.Ch, he was awarded the prestigious Doctor of Science D.Sc.in surgery.
The Padma Shree Awardees, listed on January 31, 2011, Dr. Ahmed Ali, won the nation’s prestigious award.
A dedicated, and most devoted to his profession, he declined an opportunity, assigned in New York soon after post graduation in gastroenterology and proctology. Surgery is an art to him same as a gifted and a born artist plays with his brush and colors. There is no exaggeration that if it is said that his tournament is surgery.
He visits every month to his native town to impart free service, in addition he gives nutrient suppliments and other vitamins and other additives to less fortunates. He does this as a token of gratitude to the school he studied and for the people who mutually loved.
Born in Ambur in 1940, graduated from Madras Medical College, and after retiring from service, he is concentrating his profession in Mehtha Nursing Home,Chetpet in Chennai.
His only son Dr. Mansoor is a surgical specialist in liver, pancreas, and bile duct (Hepato Pancreato Bilary Specialist) working in Kings Hospital, London UK. Dr. Mansoor is as good as his father, and was the student of Dr. Rela, the world renowned liver specialist.
Ambur, a town in Vellore District in Tamil Nadu is famous for leather industry, as well the elite of the society Ambur Muslim Educational Society, and it is fully devoted in concentrating women’s education and the students performance is par excellent.
Mr. Mecca Rafeeque Ahmed, a renowned leather industrialist, from Ambur also awarded Padma Shree for his industrial achievements.
Dr. Ali was felicitated with standing ovation by different groups elites, but he stood humble and modest.
source: http://www.amityindias.blogspot.com / April 05th, 2011
Even though there were pockets of tribal-populated areas in Bulsar district, such as Dharampur and Bansda, the district was, by and large, known to be fertile and well served by the monsoon. The southern part of the district contained large tracts of grasslands, mostly owned by the Desais and Parsis. Most of the districts of peninsular Saurashtra, however, had no irrigation facilities. This was before the Narmada Canal took the river water there and solved the problem of both irrigation and drinking, with the rare exception of Junagadh.
I had served in one of the most arid regions of Saurashtra, Surendranagar – rich in history and political leaders and poor in soil fertility and irrigation facilities. Saurashtra was also poorly fed by the monsoons, and since no perennial rivers pass through the region, no large reservoirs, too, could be built to retain substantial quantities of water.
The year 1972 proved a very difficult year for both Saurashtra and North Gujarat. That year the assessment revealed that almost 12,000 out of the 18,000 villages of Gujarat had a harvest of less than 25 per cent. The government, therefore, declared famine conditions in those 12,000 villages, that is two-thirds of the state, and applied the Bombay Famine Relief Code to provide regulated relief.
Since the state faced a major calamity with two-thirds of its population of humans and cattle facing the threat of death by hunger and thirst, the Cabinet met almost every day since the moment the assessment figures came to be known. They had known what had happened in the tragic historical famines in Bengal, Kashmir and Madras, where thousands had perished – parents sold their children, sons abandoned their parents and there were rumours of cannibalism in some pockets. A major famine in Gujarat was quite a scary prospect for the government.
One fine morning, in September of 1972, I was basking in the cool breeze of the sea blowing from the Indian Ocean in the west. After a great deal of persuasion and bribery, my daughter, Gazala, who was all of four years, had agreed to go to school. Then the telephone rang. It was KN Zutshi, the revenue secretary, on the line.
“There was a Cabinet meeting this morning to review the scarcity situation. It was decided to post you as director of famine relief to take charge of the relief operations. You better pack up and move over to Gandhinagar. The chief minister wants you here yesterday. You have 48 hours to reach here. Handover charge to your resident deputy collector,” he ordered me.
Though I had been in Bulsar for more than three years, the normal tenure of a collector, still the sudden transfer came as a surprise. Bulsar was such a pleasant district to govern – open-minded and reasonable people, able and committed staff, and a flourishing club that I had established. When I announced my transfer to my officers as soon as I reached the collectorate, there was all-round consternation. By noon, the whole district had come to know of the transfer. As I was having lunch in my chamber, the peon announced that a delegation of MLAs from the district wanted to meet me.
“Sir, there are so many development works going on. All surplus land has not yet been taken over from the Desais. You cannot leave the task half-completed. You should not move,” they said.
“I have completed my tenure here. If the government wants me at Gandhinagar, I have to move,” I said. Left to myself, I would have liked to serve another four or five years in Bulsar. I learnt later that all the MLAs of the district, including those from the opposition, had driven to Surat. They had persuaded Zinabhai Darji, the president of the state Congress, to accompany them to Gandhinagar to persuade the CM, Ghanshyambhai Oza, to cancel the transfer. One of the MLAs later told me that the CM had asked them only one question.
“Is Mr Moosa Raza unhappy with this transfer? Does he want to stay back in Bulsar?”
“No, sir, but we want him there in the interest of the district.”
“Don’t you think that the larger interest of the state should override the interests of a single district?” the CM had asked reasonably.
They had no answer. The next day, after handing over charge to the resident deputy collector (RDC), I drove down to Gandhinagar to call on the CM. I had known him during my tenure in Surendranagar, his hometown. Having been a member of the Parliament for two terms, Mr Oza was a suave and polished politician, exuding politeness and bonhomie at every movement. He received me graciously, and as I was taking my seat, he pointed to a large pile of telegrams on his table.
“Do you know what they are?” he asked me with a smile. “No, sir,” I replied truthfully.
“Over 500 telegrams from Bulsar district requesting me to cancel your transfer.”
“I had nothing to do with them, sir,” I said. But I would have been less than human not to feel pleased at this show of appreciation from the people I had served.
“But I had to disappoint your fans in Bulsar. The state is facing a severe challenge, and your work in Surendranagar, Surat, Bulsar, and Dangs has convinced the Cabinet that you are the best officer to shoulder the task.”
“We have done a preliminary survey and made an initial assessment of the various requirements. A budget of Rs 120 crore has been sanctioned. Your mandate is to ensure that not a single human life is lost for want of food and water, all cattle are provided fodder, and all villages supplied with water. The Land Revenue Code mandates that the able-bodied villagers are not given doles. That encourages a dependent mindset. You have to organise relief works through which all those who can work are provided employment. The wages should be paid every week. The revenue department will brief you on the organisational arrangements. So, get cracking.”
The next port of call was Mr Zutshi, the revenue secretary. Mr Zutshi, as his name indicated, hailed from a family of Kashmiri Pandits. An old-style civilian, with impeccable credentials, he believed in management by the book. He would not deviate an iota from the rules, and everything had to be put down in black and white before he would commit himself to a course of action. Though he used the telephone as a necessary evil, he would not trust any conversation carried out on that unreliable machine.
One had to go over to his room to discuss even petty issues.
“Bhai, Deolekar has prepared an organisational chart for you. We think you will need around ninety staff to manage this huge operation. I think you should speak with him, and he will help you to get the necessary staff in place. We will ask the various departments to depute the needed staff. The PWD will provide the furniture and other necessary equipment,” he said.
The PWD would naturally dispose of its rejected furniture – broken, roughly repaired and not required by others. Also, the staff would be from those divisions where they had proved their dispensability. I would, therefore, start with a severe handicap, which would never be overcome during my entire tenure as a director of famine relief. Nor would I be able to successfully meet the challenge of the worst famine Gujarat had seen in its decades-old history with rejected equipment and discarded staff.
Excerpted with permission from Of Giants and Windmills, Moosa Raza, Niyogi Books.
source: http://www.scroll.in / Scroll.in / Home> Book Excerpt / by Moosa Rooza / December 05th, 2022
Bridlen, a family owned business from Chennai, on its Indo-Japanese collaboration to craft Goodyear welted shoes
Leather shoes, made to order, that fit like a glove, and look like a dream.
That is a rare luxury in a market dominated by e-commerce, where even designer brands are churning out collections by the season. For the true shoe connoisseur, only a customised product, can fashion a sartorial statement. So following slow food and slow fashion, now there’s a focus on slow manufacturing. At Bridlen, a shoemaking enterprise in Chennai that started in 1986, making Goodyear welted shoes the old-school way is a rich legacy that has continued into the 21st Century.
Started by the late K Mohamed Hasan, who began his career in shoemaking with solely creating uppers , he then turned his eye to create not just custom shoes, but footwear that would please, whom he considered the most discerning customers — the Japanese. As a first-generation shoemaker with clients in the UK, France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Spain and Portugal, he found a friend in Jose Maria Watanabe, a Japanese shoemaker with four decades of experience in the business. What started as a unique friendship, then turned into a partnership that coalesced the best of Japanese design and Indian craftsmanship.
Founder of Bridlen shoes K Mohamed Hasan
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How its made…
A Goodyear welt is a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that runs along the perimeter of a shoe outsole. The machinery used for the process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of Charles Goodyear, American engineering manufacturer and inventor of vulcanised rubber. Charles’s son followed in his father’s footsteps and came up with a manufacturing process that could be used to assemble various parts of a shoe. Using a process called hand welting the upper portion of the shoe would be sewn together with the sole using a boar’s bristle needle and waxed thread.
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The Japanese connect
Following the untimely demise of its founder in 2019, Bridlen is now managed by his son, Mohamed Affan Kolandaiveedu. Affan explains why their Goodyear welt design is a cut above the standard, “ We don’t attach a cotton rib to the insole. We take a channel on a much thicker insole and stitch the welt to that. This is what separates us from most other brands at our price point or even a few brackets above. A search on the authorities of the classic shoe world from Simon Crompton at Permanent Style or Jesper of shoegazing.com have singled out this feature as a point of strength, something that you don’t normally find on factory made shoes,” explains Affan.
The story of Bridlen is fashioned by an Indian team guided by Watanabe. A Goodyear welted shoemaker based in Spain, he worked with a European partner, and was looking for a manufacturing capacity closer to Japan, when he heard about a small factory in India and came to visit. “Watanabe and Hasan really hit it off with their philosophy for quality, ethics in business and demeanour that they decided to do something together even though the original plan to move the Spanish production to India did not work,” states Affan.
Watanabe looked to pass on his skills, to Indian craftsmen who were serious about preserving the trade. “My project with Affan Shoes was the production of a finished shoe, something they had never experienced before, and at the same time it was a quality standard that was accepted worldwide.” Explaining how his mentor acclimatised to the new workspace, he adds, “Watanabe took great pains in the early days to get along with the workforce in our factory. He learnt a bit of Tamil and taught basic Japanese to some of the staff and their children on weekends. He would spend half the year in Chennai, and loved to partake in social gatherings, our festivals, and cultural practices.”
Mohamed Affan Kolandaiveedu at the factory
Pandemic pivot
Watanabe has continued his association with Bridlen, even during the pandemic. Until three days before the first lockdown came into effect in March 2020, Watanabe was in Chennai, and managed to get one of the last scheduled flights out of New Delhi to Tokyo. “We were in touch with him at least once or twice a week through video calls,“ says Affan, adding how the pandemic forced Bridlen to look at doing fittings remotely. The brand took to e-consultations where a potential client could book a video consultation to understand fitting. For clients who ordered a pair of Goodyear welted shoes online, a pair of fit-trial shoes would be shipped to them, to ensure the sizing was right before making it in their preferred style/ colour. “This gave clients a much needed boost in confidence to try a new brand and to speak with someone from the team about the intricacies of wearing them, the break-in period, shoe care etc,” states Affan. Post lockdown, the styling at the brand has pivoted as well, from classic to casual classics, bringing sustainable Goodyear construction to a wider variety of footwear styles: chukka boots, derbies, or semi-formal loafers.
Watanabe, who is currently in Tokyo, says working in India has been a rewarding journey. “Even though we made small batch production runs, it was important for Watanabe that these shoes should be available to a wider audience in terms of affordability.”
While the goodyear welted shoes range between ₹15,000 ($200) and ₹25,000 ($310) depending on specification, the construction remains the same.
A pair by Bridlen
All eyes on India
The craft on display at Bridlen, has kept the shoemakers competitive in the luxury shoe segment in India and Japan, followed by USA, France and Germany, a testament to the foresight of its founder, Affan states. Affan, who calls himself a shoemaker at Bridlen, has carried forward his father’s legacy and is optimistic of his business prospects across the globe, adding, “Our economy and labour market, now, and going into the future, are geared more towards higher value-added manufacturing or services. If you want good quality production, limited batch runs, attention to detail, then India could still prove to be a good place for international brands.”
With international travel picking up steam, Bridlen has been showing its collections at trunk shows in New Delhi in March and London in May. The tour continues with Mumbai in July, Bengaluru and Hyderabad in August, Stockholm and Paris in September and Amsterdam and Kolkata in October.
Japanese shoemaker Jose Maria Watanabe training a staff member
As India’s upwardly mobile middle class looks to buy custom footwear, with wearability, quality, sustainability and longevity guiding purchases, Affan wants his shoes to be the natural choice. “In Australia, you have RM Williams as a rights-of-passage bootmaker. In England, there are Crockett and Jones, Churchs, in the USA, there is Alden; that when you come of age, get to a certain job profile or income level then you aspire to own a few pairs of these shoes. We want to be that brand for Indians!
Box- ALL ABOUT THE LEATHER
Almost all the leathers used at Bridlen are imported from France, Italy or the UK “where strict norms for effluents are followed, source-tracing is available, and all compliance norms are met. Where made locally, like the lining leathers, we use LWG (Leather Working Group) certified, owner- driven micro tanneries where we know they are serious about meeting our local statutory environmental and sustainability laws.
“In Europe, the demand for high quality shoes, by extension for high quality leather has been there for a long time. So tanneries have been catering to this demand for quality for decades. Minimum order quantities are not as high when compared to the good tanneries in India where their expectation is much higher. In India it’s an uphill task to convince a tanner to do smaller quantities of higher quality because the industry is geared towards making more volumes to feed the bulk production shoe factories,” says Affan.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Life & Style> Fashion / by Anisha Menezes / September 17th, 2022
B Abdul Haq at the counter of Connoisseur Collection, originally the Bharath Watch Company, Chennai | Photo Credit: S Aswini Rao
The Connoisseur Collection family has been the guardian of innumerable timepieces in Chennai for the past 64 years. This Madras Week, they share a few memories.
It is easy to lose yourself in the labyrinth that is Spencer Plaza, with its narrow alleys and seemingly identical corridors. But it is worth it, for tucked away between stores selling T-shirts, phone covers and silver jewellery is a quaint space where time has stopped.
Connoisseur Collection, originally the Bharath Watch Company, was launched in 1958 in Pondy Bazaar by R Abdul Bari, then shifted to Spencer Plaza in 1999. It is now run by his son B Abdul Haq who holds aloft the 64 years of legacy single-handedly.
”My father’s work intrigued me, so I entered the field after discontinuing my education,” says Haq, who learned the craft from his father when he was just 12 years, at the shop. Here, dead watches and clocks come alive at the hands of their knowledgeable and skilled owner.
A six-decade-old timepiece at Connoisseur Collection, Chennai | Photo Credit: S Aswini Rao
Haq’s passion is evident in the way he handles the watches, and shows off his collection of rare luxury pieces from brands like Patek Philippe and Rolex. He opens a case to reveal a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, made in the mid-1970s by the legendary watch designer Gerald Genta. He moves on to reveal similar vintage watches like Patek Philippe Geneve watches made of 18k gold, and a Patek Phillipe 2583 specially made in 1956.
As he carefully places these prized possessions back in a box and locks them away, he reminisces about the late Chief Minister J Jayalalithaa, and actress Sowcar Janaki visiting his father’s shop with timepieces of their own.
“The rarest watch I have repaired is a Moon Phase by Patek Philippe,” he says, adding, “Customers bring in mechanical watches, Rolex, Omega, and other expensive Swiss watches for servicing, usually to fix broken glass dialsor button malfunctions.”
The entrepreneur reminisces the earlier times of Spencer’s Mall, saying it used to be an international hub with tourists from all over the world visiting in search of high-end brands. Those brands have since migrated to other malls, and visitors to Spencer’s have dwindled. But this shop stays put, he says, as the cost of running a business in Spencer’s is reasonable, and those in the know can always find their way to him.
As the self-styled “police officer in the field of watches” fastidiously wipes dials, he disapprovingly speaks of those who run businesses motivated only by money, with no technical knowledge. Gently wrapping each watch in velvet-lined covers he states, “Custom-made watches have no value, there is no originality left in them. When a company manufactures a watch you should not change anything.”
He wears a Rolex Deepsea watch and says his one of his favourite pieces is the Nautilus series from Patek Philippe. His father bestowed him a Vulcain cricket solid gold wrist alarm from the 1950s— his most prized possession.
source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Life & Style / by Shivani Illakiya PT / August 20th, 2022
