Category Archives: Travel & Tourism

Amin Jaffer’s new chapter in Paris

Kigali, RWANDA / Paris, FRANCE :

Amin Jaffer in his library dining room, standing in front of Yuntao Zhang’s painting of Cellini’s Medusa | Photo Credit: Architectural Digest / Antonio Martinelli

The Rwanda-born Indian curator, who has made the French capital his home, on the Al Thani collection’s first museum, his new book, and the importance of private collections

Writer, curator, collaborator, colonial furniture specialist: Amin Jaffer wears his titles effortlessly. And in the last couple of years, he’s added another one — that of Paris denizen — after he uprooted his English life of 25 years to move into a hôtel particulier (a grand townhouse) on Quai Voltaire along the Seine.

The move made sense. An “éminence grise of the international art world”, as an Architectural Digest article calls him (Jaffer is on the cover of the magazine’s 10th anniversary issue this month), he was “spending a lot of time in Venice, and the commute to London was becoming taxing”. But more importantly, his newest project, a private museum for the Al Thani Collection, is in the city, at Place de la Concorde’s Hôtel de la Marine.

“Sheikh Hamad bin Abdullah Al Thani was looking for a more permanent place to house the treasures of his collection,” says Jaffer, recalling how at the time, the French government body Centre des Monuments Nationaux was thinking of converting the former storage space for royal tapestries at the Hôtel — a four-year, €132 million restoration project. “They proposed that the Al Thani Collection could exhibit its masterpieces there.” With a 20-year agreement in place, acquiring a Parisian pin code thus gave him a twofold advantage, both with work and keeping up his continental way of life. (The last few weeks alone have seen Jaffer travel to Seville and Carmona in Spain and Parma and Venice in Italy.)

The Al Thani Collection at Hôtel de la Marine | Photo Credit: Marc Domage

Polaroid and a passion for art

The view of the Louvre from his third floor flat definitely tipped the scales in its favour. (The photos he shares on his Instagram, @aminjaffer_curator, are proof enough.) And the fact that Vivant Denon, the first director of the museum, had once been a resident in the 17th century building. Moreover, as he explains in an email that he squeezes in between flights, he’s always had a special connection with the Louvre. As a six-year-old, he had visited the museum with his mum, spending an entire day exploring its rooms, a Polaroid camera clutched tightly in his hands. He still has the photographs. “The adrenalin rush of seeing a great work of art inspired me then — as it does now,” he says, adding how by the time he turned 10 he had visited most of the major museums in Europe. “Other seminal moments include an early visit to the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Brussels and a trip to Rome to see the Vatican collections.”

The courtyard at L’Hôtel de Beuvron with its Rococo fountain | Photo Credit: @aminjaffer_curato

But he nearly missed his calling. Born into an Indian business family in Kigali, Rwanda, a career in art wasn’t an option growing up. His subjects in university were economics and commerce! That is, until he chose the history of French opera and French Renaissance châteaux as his first year electives and reignited his love affair with the arts.

Today, Jaffer, who is in his early 50s, is not only the chief curator of the Al Thani Collection, but also works with leading museums around the world in a “curatorial role, focussed on public projects, exhibition programming and producing catalogues”. His resume includes long stints at the V&A Museum in London as curator and as the International Director of Asian Art at Christie’s.

Amin Jaffer in his home office, sitting in front of a triptych by Reza Aramesh | Photo Credit: Architectural Digest / Antonio Martinelli

The perks of a private collection

“Born in central Africa, educated in Europe and America, I do feel something of a hybrid and I am drawn by works of art that are born from the encounter of two — or more — civilisations,” says Jaffer, who has recently “been fascinated by the fusion of Spanish and Amerindian culture, particularly in the domain of painting”. This ties in beautifully with the Al Thani Collection and its catalogue of more than 5,000 works of art drawn from across world civilisations.

It makes us wonder, how important are such private collections in the art world? “Pioneer collectors have vision and resources that compliment the public art offering,” he says, explaining how such collections play a significant role in the programming of national institutions. “Recent examples in Paris [besides the Al Thani Collection] includes the Bourse de Commerce and the Fondation Louis Vuitton. In India, Kiran Nadar has developed a programme of exhibitions around her collection that makes an essential contribution to the art scene,” adds the Indian art expert who played a key part in launching Christie’s first auction in Mumbai in 2013.

At Hôtel de la Marine | Photo Credit: Marc Domage

On board with digital

Jaffer’s personal collection is equally varied. A triptych by Iranian photographer Raza Aramesh, of Afghan refugees sitting in the Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors, takes pride of place in his home office, while a painting of Italian sculptor Benvenuto Cellini’s Medusa by Chinese contemporary artist Yuntao Zhang hangs in the library dining room. Elsewhere, Qing period armchairs, Louis XVI commodes, and Bouke De Vries’ Memory Jars are tucked into corners and under tables. “My most recent passions are French 18th century silver and hardstones from late Antiquity, especially objects in porphyry. I am learning more about Symbolist painting, too,” he says.

His days of confinement (as the French called the lockdown) helped broaden his base. When not watching life on the river, he was visiting digital museums and “researching parallel institutions” around the world. “What’s certain,” he says, “is that technology will play a greater role in the way we enjoy works of art — whether through the presence of more immersive, digitally-led exhibitions [such as the RMN Grand Palais’ immersive Venice show opening in autumn] or the sharing of information about works of art through digital platforms [like the one for the Palazzo Pilotta collection in Parma, which he experienced last weekend].” Does this mean he’s also on board with NFTs? “Of course, the phenomenon interests me,” he says, “but I do not yet have sufficient expertise to comment on anything in this new domain.”

The Al Thani Collection | Photo Credit: Marc Domage

Left Bank to the Concorde

For now, he’s back at his home at L’Hôtel de Beuvron, listening to Wagner and Mahler, and updating his Instagram. V&A’s new exhibition, Fashioning masculinities — on the male dress and its influences — has caught his eye, though he admits his personal wardrobe is rather formulaic. Tailored clothes in a limited palette of colours is the ‘uniform’, accented by pocket squares and ties that reflect the season or his mood. “Cufflinks are a weakness,” he shares, “and the best ones are by [Indian jeweller] Viren Bhagat, without doubt.”

Even as Jaffer immerses himself in life on the Left Bank, work at the museum is keeping up its momentum. “Some substantial pieces have been added to the collection in the past two years, which reflect the diversity of interests [of Sheikh Al Thani]. These will be shared with the public through displays at the Hôtel de la Marine,” he concludes.

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Entertainment> Art / by Surya Praphulla Kumar / March 19th, 2022

Farman Ali, the last of the great chefs

Lucknow, U.P. / NEW DELHI / Bengaluru, KARNATAKA:

At Falak in Bengaluru, a custodian of the old Urdu-speaking culture and culinary traditions brings storytelling to the table

While the lights of Dubai-esque skyscrapers speak of a new Bangalore and its ambition, the salubrious weather on the terrace is a testament to an old city — pleasant and genteel, never mind traffic, chaos or climate change!

This convergence of the old and the new is a theme, as I sit down to a meal at Falak, the new restaurant at Leela Bhartiya City. The meal is to flow like a quintessential 19th century Lucknowi dastaan (story), hyperbolic and stylised, to mimic the oral storytelling tradition, dastaan-e-goi.

In my bookcase, I have a copy of Tilism-i-Hoshruba, the truly first Indo-Islamic romance epic, an extension of the dastans of Amir Hamza, of the Persian tradition, albeit in translation. When it was first published, in a serialised form, between 1881-93, by the iconic Naval Kishore Press in Lucknow, it marked an important moment for the Urdu-speaking-and listening audience of northern India, long familiar with the Persian romance tradition — with fantasy, adventure and the implausible built in. But I turn to Hamza, to also dive into the inherent syncreticism on the pages, as the mores of a Persian world collide and merge with those of local Braj Bhasha-speaking cultures of the Indo-Gangetic plain.

Finding nuanced Avadhi in Bengaluru

It’s a surprise to find a restaurant referencing this art form, to present Lucknowi (as also other Mughalai) dishes. Used to so much pastiche when it comes to Avadhi, the detailing in the menu is also unexpected. The food that arrives confirms that this perhaps is one of the most nuanced Avadhi/Mughalai restaurant opening in recent times — here in Bengaluru, rather implausibly, rather than Delhi, Mumbai or even London! Everything falls into place, however, when Farman Ali, all of 70, a chef who cooks behind the fiery range and sigri himself, and presides over the kitchens of Falak, makes his appearance.

When he hears about of my own Lucknowi antecedents, Ali abandons the idea of narrating food lore. With an extreme politeness that marks old Nawabi etiquette, he asks me, “ Ab aap ko kya dastan sunaye? [what possible tales can I tell you?].” And bursts into poetry, instead!

The rest of the evening goes by with the chef dropping verses from Daag or Ghalib or the other few who made 19th century Delhi one of the most literary cities in the world, even if we have forgotten that genre of poetry of lament created almost exactly at the time as Shelley, Wordsworth and the Romantics.

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Parts of an ancient story

For Ali, I realise, this is not performance — though it is quite in sync with modern chefs expected to be performative as they spend time building brands ‘front of the house’. Instead, this is a way of life, a culture that has all but completely faded. As the meal progresses — the nihari (pepper-laced stew of old Delhi’s spice market, concocted, according to lore, to ward off cold and flu thought to emanate from the Yamuna canal in Chandni Chowk) being replaced by the qorma ( nihari evolved into the subtle Avadhi qorma, catering to aristocrats who thought it ill-mannered to be smelling of spices after a meal) being replaced by the ‘ balai’ka tukda for dessert (not dubbed ‘ shahi’ royal bread pudding here; balai being the correct term for clotted cream) — we talk not food but art.

One of the dishes served at Falak | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

“After 1857, so many artisans and poets fled Delhi for the Deccan,” says Ali. “Culture spreads like this.” He is right, of course. But the ghazal or qasidas aside, it’s also the biryani that has diffused. Farman Ali’s is the old Delhi/Lucknowi style (he grew up in old Delhi and still has a house there) where rice is cooked in stock, and the ‘ pulao’ is not the layered and overtly spiced dish that its Hyderabadi cousin is. Old ‘Nakhlauwallas’ — such as yours truly — contend there was no Avadhi biryani at all, before the restaurants took over, just many fanciful and well-documented pulaos such as the ‘ moti’ (pearls) or the ‘cuckoo’, served with fried onions and thin yoghurt, no chutney or gravy.

The man behind Jamavar

Ali worked in restaurants in Delhi and Dubai before being handpicked by The Leela’s Capt CP Krishnan Nair to create the food of Jamavar nationally, to cook and serve pan-Indian food. Based in Bengaluru, he curiously escaped much national attention, retiring just before the pandemic, but was called back by the owners of Bhartiya City, foodies themselves, to cook food closer to his roots.

If cuisine is an expression of a culture, at a particular point in history, its custodians and storytellers are as important as the taste of dishes.

In India, at this moment in time, it is perhaps important to look back on the custodians of the old Urdu-speaking cultures and their culinary expressions. What kind of a society produced these stylised dishes? Farman Ali, in many ways, is the last of the great chefs, many of whom were feted much more and earlier in their careers than him — such as Imtiaz Qureshi of ITC Hotels (and his family, such as son-in-law Ghulam Qureshi of Dumpukht), and chef Ghulam Rasool of Taj Hotels.

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Life & Style> Food / by Anoothi Vishal / March 19th, 2022

Seven women loco pilots honoured by Government Railway Police

INDIA :

The Government Railway Police (GRP) on International Women’s Day honoured seven women serving as loco pilots and assistant loco pilots in trains operated by the South Western Railway.

One of the loco pilots being awarded by GRP in recognition of their exemplary services.

Bengaluru :

The Government Railway Police (GRP) on International Women’s Day honoured seven women serving as loco pilots and assistant loco pilots in trains operated by the South Western Railway. In recognition of their exemplary services to the Railways, S B Gayatri Krishna, V S Abhirami, C Minu Mubaraka, Nimi Chand, Rangoli Patel, Nimisha Kumari and P Noorul Meharna were honoured.

Additional Director General of Police, Railways, Bhaskar Rao and Superintendent, GRP, DR Siri Gowri were present at the event held at KSR Railway station. M P Omkareshwari, Road Transport Joint Commissioner (Bengaluru Rural), Psychologist Soujayna Vashista, and Senior Divisional Security Commissioner, RPF, Debashmita Chattopadhyay Banerjee, were also present on the occasion.

source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> Cities> Bengaluru / by Express News Service / March 09th, 2022

The First Prime Minister of Bihar. His grave lies at Brookwood Cemetery in Woking, England.

Patna, BIHAR / London, U.K :

I have been visiting Shah Jahan Mosque and the Brookwood cemetery in Woking for a few years now.

Woking, is a small town almost 30 miles from London. The town is famous for it’s first purpose build mosque in the UK .

 During, the two great wars this mosque served a purpose of spiritual centre for Muslim soldiers in Britain.

A few miles from the mosque lies a burial ground which was a designated ground for Muslim soldiers of WWI. Later, it has been transformed into a memorial park.

Shahjahan Mosque, Woking

Brookwood Cemetery is situated almost five miles from the Shah Jahan Mosque. The Cemetery is one of the largest in Europe. There are a number of famous Victorian Muslims resting here. Today, Woking has large Muslim population, mostly from Pakistan and they are very active in the community and maintaining the mosque very well.

My, very first trip was unplanned and somewhat impulsive. Though it was incredibly enlightening as well as moving. In 2016 after Eid prayer, on a spur I decided to drive my family to Woking. At the time I had only two boys; My eldest was 3 and his brother a year old. I had no idea how to reach to the mosque and locate graves of the early ‘Victorian Muslims.’ However I was committed to do both on the same day. On my SatNav I entered the postcode of Shah Jahan Mosque.

After two hours of drive we reached the Shah Jehan Mosque. There, we saw young and old, boys and girls in Asian Eid costumes. Contrary to the typical British cloudy weather it was a sunny day. Green dome of the mosque and good size open space with another impressive brick building gave an impression as if we are in a small but an affluent village of India.

The festive mood and the perfect sunny day was inviting us to explore and finish the target. After spending an hour there, we decided to drive to Brookwood cemetery.

The most challenging part was to locate the old Muslim section of the cemetery, where I wanted to the visit graves of Abdullah Yusuf Ali, Marmaduke Pickthall and Lord Headley.

To solve the problem, after reaching the cemetery gate; my intuition suggested me to drive only on the road which took us to the right side of the cemetery. First right, second right and then the third right. After a very short drive it was evident that the direction of graves has started changing, Muslim names with some Islamic symbols – crescent and stars on grave stones reassured me that we have entered into the Muslim section of the cemetery. In the end I reached to the place I wished. It was not easy to recognise Mr. Pickthall’s grave, three rows further, very close to the road is buried my favourite Abdullah Yusuf Ali the well known translator of the Holy Qur’an in today’s contemporary world who passed away in 1953. I was in search of another unmarked grave of Mr. Abdullah Quilliam, when my wife called me to show something. She excitedly pointed to a marked grave of the first Prime Minister of Bihar.

Grave of Mohammed Yunus

My wife is born and brought up in the UK. However she is fluent in Urdu and has enormous interest in her Indian roots. She located the grave of the ‘First Prime Minister of Bihar’ – Haji Mohammad Yunus. It was a huge surprise for me.

Barrister Mohammed Yunus (Sitting)

I don’t have any direct relationship with Late Haji Mohammad Yunus Saheb. However one of his nephews was my grandfather’s junior in the court and was a very close friend of his. My paternal grandfather was a successful and famous criminal lawyer who practiced in a small town in Bihar. Both of them worked in the same Court. In the 1940s my grandfather’s friend (Haji Yunus’s nephew) was the only Muslim in the town who had a Radio.

Barrister Mohammed Yunus

In fact in our ancestral town it was his radio that broke the bad news of Mahatma Gandhi’s cold blooded murder. Broadcasts from his Radio clarified that the murderer of Gandhi was ‘not a Muslim but a right wing Hindu’ .  Which was a momentous relief for the frightened local Muslim population during the violent and uncertain communal climate of the partition of India.

So, finding his grave reminded me of the old story of partition. When I was in school, our eldest uncle shared his experience as a child and narrated us with many stories of the partition; further, how they were taken to a safe place in Bengal for a short period of time by train.

Barrister Mohammed Yunus as Prime Minister of Bihar

Below are photographs of Haji Mohammad Yunus grave stone and other famous British Muslims residents of the Brookwood Cemetery. May they all rest in peace; may Almighty Allah accepts their deeds and grant them highest place in Paradise. Ameen.

source: http://www.heritagetimes.in / Heritage Times / Home> Bihar> Heritage / by M S Siddiqui / July 29th, 2020

Preserving Persian Epigraphic Heritage

JAMMU & KASHMIR :

The earliest Persian and Arabic inscriptions are seen on the tombstones and walls in the olden graveyards of Kashmir

The historic tombs of the most famous Shahmiri period sultans and nobles, which included Sultan Sikander and Sultan Zain ul Abideen are also in this historic cemetery. [Tomb of Zain ul Abideen in Srinagar’s old city–Representational Image]File/ GK

With the establishment of Muslim sultanate in Kashmir, in late fourteenth century, the Sanskrit language and Sharda alphabet were also taken over by Persian and Arabic alphabet. The tradition of Sharda epigraphic culture also declined considerably and it gave way to Persian and Arabic inscriptions.

The earliest Persian and Arabic inscription are seen on the tomb stones and walls, in the olden graveyards, Khanqahs and mosques of Kashmir. Number of such inscriptions are documented in my book titled, Kashmir inscriptions of Kashmir, which was published in the year 2013 by Gulshan Books, Srinagar.

Persian inscription on a stone slab at the historic graveyard of Khanqah-e-mu’llah old Srinagar.

Epigraphs of royal graveyard at Mazari Kalan

Mazari Kalan popularly known to public as “Mazari Shiekh Bahau-ud-Din Ganj Baksh (RA)” lies in the foot of Kohi Maran to the west of Malkah. The history of the Mazar reveals that the site originally was proposed by Zain-ul-Abideen Badshah in 1421 AD for housing the only burial of her beloved wife called Ashama Bibi who belonged to a noble family of Bahaqi lineage. But when Sheikh Baha-ud-Din (RA), the reputed saint and Murshid of the Sultan left for heavenly abode in December 11, 1439 AD, he was laid to rest in this proposed site. Over the resting-place a shrine was also then erected.

Stone inscription in a dilapidated condition

The shrine looks to have been renovated, but it has lost most of its interesting architectural features. Adjacent to the shrine is seen the grave of a poet, Mir Illahi, who is saidto be the court poet of the Budshah. A beautiful inscription bearing few lines of his lyric is erected over the grave.

The grave of Asaha Bibi lies near the gate of the Mazar. The other burials it houses of the reputed saints and nobles of their times include; the grave of Solman, Sayyied Habib Shah Kashani, Moullana Mohammed Anie, Baba Qayim, Khwaja Mohammed Kakroo, Moullana Mohammed Balkhji, Sheikh Mohammed Trabali, Mulla Sarf-ud-Din Farhat, Mulla Nurullah Kath, Molvi Amir-ud-Din, Molvi Qulam-ud-Din Jami, Sayyied Mohammed Kermaniand others.

These all graves are very old and are crowned with gravestones, which are brilliantly carved in beautiful Arabic and Persian inscriptions.

Epigraphs of royal graveyard at Zain kadal

The royal graveyard of Zainkadal, locally called Mazari Salateen, enshrines the final resting places of Shahmeri Sultans. The historic tombs of the most famous Shahmiri period sultans and nobles, which included Sultan Sikander and Sultan Zain ul Abideen are also in this historic cemetery.

The tomb of Mirza Haider Dauglat, who administrated Kashmir as a Mughal governor for about 11 years during 1540-1552 AD, is also found in this historic graveyard.

There is a brilliant epigraph in Persian characters laid over his grave which is believed to have been installed by Moorcraft a British traveler during his vest of Kashmir in 19th century.

Persians inscription stone slab on the tomb of Mirza Haider Daughlat, Zainakadal Srinagar.

Zaindeep Epigraph

Persian stone inscription of Zain ul Abideen, SPS Museum Srinagar

Although there is no evidence of any standing Budshah’s Palace found anywhere in Kashmir valley but there is a magnificent stones slab inscription housed in the SPS museum at Lalmandi Srinagar which the experts claim provides vital information about Zaindeep, one of the famous Palaces of the Budshah’s period. Experts claim that this stone slab inscription, besides other details, has also provided the date of construction of this highest palace.

This inscription is Persian Nashk style. It is learnt that the inscription way back has been recovered from the Zianlank island of world famous Wullar lake in Bandipura district and later was shifted to this museum for its proper preservation. The inscription gives AH 841 as the date of construction of this world famous Zaindeep.

While providing description of this stone slab inscription experts say that this inscription is in Persian characters and is divided in four panels. The first two lines mentions the majesty, strength and the name of the Palace as Zaindeep and also describes it as the world famous, while as the date of foundation in Muslim calendar is mentioned in the last two lines in Persian words, which is calculated as 841.

Inscription of the palace

Ene bakha chun faluk muhakum bad

Mashoor ba zain deep dar alam bad

Shah Zain ibad ke daru jashin kunand

Pai vasta Chun tareekh khurdesh kahrum bad.

84l the inscription dates to 841 AH.

(The fort built by Shah Zain ul Abieein is so high and strong as the sky; and it is famous by the name of Zain deep. The king was very happy and celebrated the event when this palace was built)

Broken Stone inscription at Mazare Salateen old Srinagar

Besides these royal graveyards, the other historic and royal graveyards also carried brilliant epigraphs either engraved on tomb stones or on stone walls, these included Mazari Kalan, Mazari Salateen, Mazari Khanqah Mu’llah, Mazari Madine Sahib, Mazari Malik Sahib, Mazari Safakadal, Mazari Malkah and Mazari Bijbehra,.

But these human records are not preserved anywhere in these historic cementers. These inscribed records have fallen prey to the unchecked weathering and human vandalism.

Most of their inscriptions have defaced and it is very difficult to identify and decipher their epigraphs; steps are required to be taken to conserve this unprotected and unconcerned epigraphic heritage.

Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are the personal opinions of the author.

The facts, analysis, assumptions and perspective appearing in the article do not reflect the views of GK

source: http://www.greaterkashmir.com / Greater Kashmir / Home> Op-Ed / by Iqbal Ahmad / February 20th, 2022

What it means to travel the world as a Muslim woman

INDIA / SOUTH AFRICA :

Indian-born South African writer Shubnum Khan’s new book is about the hope and magic we can find in life if we are brave enough to push for it.

Apart from ideas of hope and courage, Shubnum Khan explores the theme of walking in her book.
Apart from ideas of hope and courage, Shubnum Khan explores the theme of walking in her book. (iStockphoto)

What does it mean to be a young, Muslim, desi woman walking the streets of Shanghai alone, sometimes in a hijab? What’s it like going off on your own to the mountains to teach children in a remote village in Kashmir when you have never travelled alone? And most importantly, what happens when you decide to be brave and do those things and, in a sense, “step off the edge”?

“You think you are going to fall, but you actually fly,” says Shubnum Khan, the South African writer of How I Accidentally Became A Global Stock Photo, a collection of odd and funny stories of her travels around the world, and of learning to be soft and vulnerable, particularly to herself.

In this breezy, delightful read, Khan packs in descriptions of experiencing travel and living abroad with a good dose of earnest reflections that tap into being a Muslim woman in the modern world, with bearings rooted in faith and family. The stories are resonant not because they are common or relatable (they are, rather, strange and wonderful) but because she contextualises them by revealing something of her life and herself.

For instance, Khan takes us through her life as the fourth of four sisters in an Indian Muslim family in Durban, where, at a point in her life, she had started feeling trapped and frustrated. So when an opportunity to go to Kashmir in 2013, to teach village children, came along, she took it up. “I immediately saw that this was the first step towards doing something different with my life as compared to everyone telling me to get married and have children,” says the 36-year-old on Zoom.

That experience and move away from a sheltered life catalysed other events and happenings, travels and sometimes bizarre incidents. Her new book straddles genres in that it’s as much a memoir as it is a travelogue and, together, transcends both. While it started as a collection of her experiences during travels—from turning into a “bride” on a rooftop in Shanghai to being trapped in a house in Delhi during an earthquake—it grew into much more. “As I was writing the book, I realised I was also telling the story of my life,” she says.

Shubnum Khan.
Shubnum Khan.

Khan is vulnerable in her stories and, in contrast to trope-filled memoirs and travelogues that spotlight strength and bravery, owns up to her less-than-brave feelings. She describes being anxious and nervous throughout most of her trips. But vulnerability and sharing one’s life (whether in a book or on social media, where Khan first found an audience for her stories) can involve treading a fine line. How does she decide what to share and what to keep to herself?

“Distance and space give you a clearer idea of the bigger picture,” she says. “You are sharing so you don’t feel lonely but you are also sharing so that other people don’t feel lonely,” she says. “I really wanted to share who I am but I also wanted to protect who I am.” When Khan says “anything could happen” if you step off the edge, she’s also aware that this doesn’t only mean good things. Neither does she ignore the presence of threat or danger. Instead, she confronts it with humour.

Even as Khan grapples with ideas such as living and travelling as a Muslim woman, she tells her stories with charm and wit. “In the book, I talk about being interrogated about my secret marriage. At the time I was so scared, it was such a serious situation. Now when I look back at it, I find it ridiculous,” Khan says. She doesn’t think of herself as a funny person but does believe that you can only laugh at certain situations in life to get through them. “Once you start seeing how ridiculous those are, you can pull out the humour from them,” she adds.

Apart from ideas of hope and courage, the book explores the theme of walking. It seems to be Khan’s primary way of experiencing any place she is visiting, especially because South Africa itself doesn’t allow her that freedom. She writes about how, in her home country, she has to watch what she wears even when going out to jog, how she can’t even carry her phone with her, and how she has to be hyper-aware of her surroundings, no matter where she goes.

How I Accidentally Became A Global Stock Photo: By Shubnum Khan, Pan Macmillan India, 256 pages,  <span class='webrupee'>₹</span>650.
How I Accidentally Became A Global Stock Photo: By Shubnum Khan, Pan Macmillan India, 256 pages, ₹650.

Her travel stories detail experiences and encounters of walking and getting lost in the streets of Istanbul, Casablanca, Seoul and Shanghai. A chance meeting with a weeping woman. Going down out-of-sight alleys full of possibilities. Discovering a mosque. “There’s such beauty in being able to get lost, and I can’t do that in South Africa,” she rues.

It’s an arresting vision, to imagine a young Muslim woman walking in cities of the world alone, and Khan is aware of it. “We have so many books about men walking in cities, and books about white women walking,” she says. “We don’t have too much about the Muslim woman walking.” Given the many places she has visited, it’s not unfair to think about Khan’s privilege, which she acknowledges. Does it mean adventures are possible only if certain things are aligned? “You should keep pursuing what you need to do and try to make it happen in whatever way possible,” she says. She had to fight her father to be able to travel, for instance. Some of her trips had some expenses covered. “You have to dream big but you also have to follow them with practical steps,” she says.

It’s a curious book to have been written in 2020, when the pandemic was blazing and travel was far from our minds. And yet, it was also the perfect time for the book, which has been as much influenced by the pandemic as it is a product of it. Khan says that were it not for that strange, isolating, terrifying time, she might not have come to some of the conclusions and reflections she did in her book.

“It started making me think intensely about who I am and my role, the kind of experiences I have,” she says. “In my stories I am talking about travelling by myself, being by myself, being single, doing things alone. And then, when I was writing this book (during the pandemic), I was by myself, and I was missing everyone. I felt isolated. I think it helped tell a more intense story.”

That time in 2020 was also a period when, amid the despair and grief, we were all looking for hope. Because it wasn’t around her while she was writing, Khan says she tried to write that hope into her book. “Everything felt hopeless and writing the stories felt like I was trying to inject that magic back into life,” she says.

That is the book’s mainstay: the idea that there is hope and magic to be had from life, for anyone who wants it and is brave enough to push for it. Khan calls her book “part memoir, part travelogue, part love letter to anyone who has been afraid”. It’s essentially about choosing your own path in the face of conventionality but it is the heart and humour with which she tells her tales that make the smile already on your face linger a little longer.

I ask her what advice she would give to someone who carries the weight of dreams in her heart—and it’s usually a her—except that she’s afraid. Khan’s reply is tender and full of warmth. “It will be scary and hard but you should never stop dreaming. People will always be telling women how to be, how to act and what to do. But you have to follow what you want to do because you are living your life,” she says. “You are going to be on the journey with you. No one else will live your life.”

Tasneem Pocketwala writes on culture, identity, gender, cities and books. She is based in Mumbai.

source: http://www.lifestyle.livemint.com / Mint Lounge / Home> News> Big Story / by Tasneem Pocketwala / November 04th, 2021

Skier Arif Khan leads Indian contingent at Beijing Winter Olympics

Baramulla District, JAMMU & KASHMIR :

Arif Mohd Khan, of India, leads their team in during the opening ceremony of the 2022 Winter Olympics, Friday, Feb. 4, 2022, in Beijing.   | Photo Credit: AP

Arif is the first Indian to secure qualification in two events of the same edition of the Games and his competitions are slated for February 13 and 16

Beijing Skier Arif Khan led a small four-strong Indian contingent during the Winter Olympics opening ceremony here on Friday amid a diplomatic boycott of the event by the country.

The 31-year-old Arif will be the lone Indian competitor at the Games, having qualified in Slalom and Giant Slalom events. India sent a six-member contingent to the Games including a coach, a technician and a team manager.

Arif is the first Indian to secure qualification in two events of the same edition of the Games and his competitions are slated for February 13 and 16.

India was the 23rd contingent to walk in during the grand ceremony at the iconic Bird’s Nest stadium here as China welcomed athletes from 84 countries amid a diplomatic boycott by powerful nations such as the USA and Britain over its alleged human rights violations in the Xinjiang region.

India announced a diplomatic boycott of the Games after China fielded Qi Fabao, the regimental commander of the People’s Liberation Army, who was injured during the 2020 military face-off with Indian soldiers in the Galwan Valley in eastern Ladakh, as a torchbearer for the event’s Torch Relay.

India said China’s move was “regrettable” and it has chosen to “politicise” the Olympics.

Born in Kashmir’s Baramulla district, Arif took up skiing quite early in life, winning his first national slalom championship at the age of just 12.

He later went on to win two gold medals in the Slalom and Giant Slalom events of the South Asian Winter Games in 2011.

He has also participated in both the editions of the Khelo India Winter Games held in Gulmarg, Jammu and Kashmir.

Arif’s inspiration was his father Yasin Khan, who owns a ski equipment shop in Gulmarg, a popular tourist destination in Jammu and Kashmir.

Previously, India’s Winter Olympics campaigns have been identified with one man — veteran luge athlete Shiva Keshavan, who represented the country in six editions of the mega-event.

The 40-year-old from Manali, Himachal Pradesh has now taken up the role of promoting winter sports in India.

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Sport / by PTI / February 04th, 2022

How America Celebrated Haidar Ali In 1781

Mysuru, KARNATAKA :

On 19 October 1781, a British land force led by Charles Cornwallis surrendered to George Washington, America’s Commander in Chief. Nine days later Cornwallis’ surrender, along with that of Haidar Ali’s victories in India, was celebrated at Trenton, New Jersey. Photo: John Trumbull – http://www.aoc.gov/cc/photo-gallery/ptgs_rotunda.cfm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1379717

Hyder Ally (Anglicised version of Haidar Ali) was a popular exotic name in the 1770s when the fledgling United States of America was fighting for its independence from Britain. There were racehorses named after this ruler of the Mysore Kingdom in South Asia as well as his warrior son Tipu Sultan.

In the early 1780s, Haidar Ali’s bravery was invoked in one of the earliest documented recruitment for the US Navy. A ship named after him gave the USA one of its greatest naval victories during the same time. His name was chanted on the streets of America, in 1781. Let’s travel back in time to understand this.

In 1775, a great upheaval shook thirteen British colonies on the east coast of North America as its residents rose against the Government of Great Britain, declared independence and flew their own flag (1, 2). Apparently, the first flag of the Union, now the US national flag- the Stars and Stripes, sent to the state of Maryland was hosted on a sailboat by teenager Joshua Barney at Baltimore in October 1775. Barney had just started his service with the US Navy.

Rocket Warfare, by Charles H. Hubbell (1898–1971) captures the humiliation of the British at the Battle of Pollilur (Sep. 1780) by Mysorean war rockets.

A few years later- in 1780, in the far-away Mysore Kingdom, the East India Company was suffering one of the worst reverses in its military history. This was at the hands of Haidar Ali and his son Tipu Sultan who were supported by the French, an ally of America. The humiliation of the British at the Battle of Pollilur in September 1780 reverberated in America where the news reached the country (3). On 19 October 1781, the British land force led by Charles Cornwallis surrendered to the Americans led by George Washington  (incidentally a decade later in India, Cornwallis gave EI Company and its Indian allies victory over Haidar Ali’s son Tipu Sultan in the 3rd Anglo Mysore War). Nine days later Cornwallis’ surrender, along with that of Haidar Ali’s victories in India, was celebrated at Trenton, New Jersey. The town on that day was decorated with American colours. Inhabitants including the Who’s Who attended a service at the Presbyterian Church, where a discourse highlighting the occasion was delivered by a Reverend. In the afternoon the gathering drank 13 toasts accompanied with a discharge of artillery, number eleven of which was for ‘The great and heroic Hyder Ali, raised up by Providence to avenge the numberless cruelties perpetrated by the English on his unoffending countrymen, and to check the insolence and reduce the power of Britain in the East Indies‘ (ibid., ref. 3).

The other toasts were raised and artillery was discharged for the below. Quote:
1. The United States of America; 
2. The Congress; 
3. The king of France; 
4. General Washington and the American army; 
5. The Count de Rochambeau and the French army; 
6. The Count de Grasse and the French fleet; 
7. General Greene and the Southern army; 
8. The friends of liberty throughout the world; 
9. The memory of Generals Warren, Montgomery, and all the other heroes who have fallen in the defence of the liberties of America; 
10. Peace on honorable terms, or war forever; 
12. The governor and State of New Jersey; 
13. The glorious 19th of October, 1781. At seven in the evening the company retired, and the rejoicings were concluded by a brilliant illumination.
Unquote. (ibid., ref. 3).

Hyder Ally and America’s struggle to reclaim its seas from the British

Sketch of action between American naval ship USS Hyder Ally and English warship General Monk in 1782. 
Source: Life of Commodore Joshua Barney, Hero of the US Navy (1776-1812), 1912.

Despite this, America was far from being an independent nation. The British still ruled the seas. They kept a keen watch on the ships entering and exiting the ports of northeast USA, often capturing the vessels and looting goods. General Washington an American sloop-of-war was captured by Admiral Arbuthnot, and placed in the king’s service under a new name The General Monk, which was then used to pirate American ships. By 1782 the commerce of Philadelphia City, as well as the ordinary life of the residents of the coast and nearby streams, was deteriorating. The fledgling American Union was not in a position to protect the affected vessels. Therefore the State of Pennsylvania, at its own expense, fitted a number of armed vessels that operated in waters leading to Philadelphia. The state purchased Hyder Ally, a small sloop (single mast ship) equipped with sixteen six-pounder guns to help protect the American vessels. 23-year old Lieutenant Joshua Barney, now in the US navy, arrived at Philadelphia where he was honoured with the command of Hyder Ally (4). Assigned with recruiting men, Barney used a poem penned by Philip Morin Freneau to attract young American men to the ship. The poem exalted Haidar Ali’s bravery against the British with the following lines (5):

Come, all ye lads who know no fear,

To wealth and honour with me steer

In the Hyder Ali privateer,

Commanded by brave Barney.

From an eastern prince she takes her name,

Who, smit with freedom’s sacred flame,

Usurping Britons brought to shame,

His country’s wrongs avenging;

Come, all ye lads that know no fear.

With hand and heart united all

Prepared to conqueror to fall.

Attend, my lads! to honor’s call —

Embark in our Hyder-Ally!

And soon Barney led a force of a hundred and ten men. On April 8, 1782, he received instructions to protect a fleet of merchantmen to the Capes just before the sea, at the entrance of Delaware Bay. Dropping the convoy at Cape May road he was awaiting a fair wind to take the merchant ship to sea when he saw three ships (6) which he realised were waiting to plunder the convoy. Barney immediately turned the convoy back into the bay, using Hyder Ally to cover the retreat. Soon the bigger General Monk under the command of Captain Rogers of the Royal Navy nearly doubled his own force of metal, and nearly one-fourth superior in number of men caught up with Hyder Ally. Despite being fired upon, Barney held Hyder Ally’s fire till within pistol shot when both the two vessels got entangled. A short but desperate fight ensued. Lasting 26 minutes, it resulted in the lowering of flags by General Monk indicating her surrender. Both vessels arrived at Philadelphia a few hours after the action bearing their respective dead. The Hyder Ally had four men killed and eleven wounded. The General Monk lost twenty men killed and had thirty-three wounded including Captain Rogers himself, and every officer on board, except one midshipman ! (7)

‘Surrender of Baillie to Hyder Ali, 1780’, illustration from Cassell’s Illustrated History of England (20th century), 1780.

A hero is celebrated

Philadelphia burst in celebrations. Ballads were made upon this brilliant victory and sung through the streets of the city! And echoing with Barney’s name was that of Hyder Ally (ibid., ref. 1).Here are some lines:

And fortune still, that crowns the brave

Shall guard us over the gloomy wave —

A fearful heart betrays a knave!

Success to the Hyder-Ally!

While the roaring Hyder-Ally

Covered over his decks with dead!

When from their tops, their dead men tumbled

And the streams of blood did flow,

Then their proudest hopes were humbled

By their brave inferior foe.

A small sword with mountings of chased gold- the guard of which on the one side had a representation of the Hyder Ally, and on the other the General Monk was ordered by the Legislature of Pennsylvania and a vote of thanks was passed for Captain Barney in 1782. This gold-hilted sword was presented to him in the name of the state by Governor Dickinson. Source: Life of Commodore Joshua Barney, Hero of the US Navy (1776-1812), 1912

In 1782 the Legislature of Pennsylvania passed a vote of thanks to Captain Barney and ordered a gold-hilted sword to be prepared, which was afterwards presented to him in the name of the state by Governor Dickinson. It was a small sword with mountings of chased gold- the guard of which on the one side had a representation of the Hyder Ally, and on the other the General Monk (ibid., ref. 1). Barney was the last officer to quit the Union’s service, in July 1784, having been for many months before the only officer retained by the United States.

Barney was sent by the American Government to Paris. A reception was given in France him as a hero of dashing naval exploits during the Revolutionary War (8). A painting representing the action between the two ships was executed in 1802 by L. P. Crepin in Paris by order of Barney, while in the service of the French Republic. The same was presented by him on his return to the United States, to Robert Smith, Esquire, then secretary of the navy (9). The painting is now in the United States Naval Academy, Annapolis, Maryland (ibid., ref. 1).  Barney was an intimate friend of Count Bertrand, one of Napoleon’s generals (ibid., ref. 2). Napolean incidentally had an alliance against the British with Haidar Ali’s son Tipu Sultan, during the latter’s lifetime (10).

Barney was appointed a Captain in the Flotilla Service, US Navy on 1814 April 25 (11). He took part in seventeen battles during the Revolutionary War and in nine battles during the War of 1812. A British Musket-ball lodged inside his body in battle at Bladensburg, Maryland in August 1814 (12). He passed away on December 1, 1818, aged 60.

The world today is considered a global village thanks to the scaling down of boundaries between nation-states and individuals alike. But it may surprise us even in the 18th century seemingly local political events and humans made an impact on lands and societies far away. The name Haidar Ali, after an adventurer from an obscure place in the erstwhile Kingdom of Mysore who gave many a lesson in military and political strategies to global colonial powers of England and France, echoing across the proverbial seven seas in distant North America for nearly a century is a testament of this (13, 14).

Painting of Commodore Joshua Barney at Independence Hall, Philadelphia,  Life of Commodore Joshua Barney, Hero of the US Navy (1776-1812), 1912.

70 years after Hyder Ally’s victory over General Monk, James Cooper wrote “This action has been justly deemed one of the most brilliant that ever occurred under the American Flag. It was fought in the presence of a vastly superior force that was not engaged, and the ship taken was in every essential respect superior to her conqueror.” (ibid., ref. 4)

Sources/ Notes:

1. Barney, Mary., A biographical memoir of the late Commodore Joshua Barney, 1832, Mary was a sister of Joshua Barney. Her book provides in-depth information about the latter’s personal and military life. Born on July 6, 1759, 13-year old young Philadelphia Joshua Barney set sail on his maiden merchant ship journey to Ireland in 1771 with his brother in law Captain Thomas Drysdale. He sailed back home the following year and made trips to ports in Europe again. He set sail for Nice, France in December 1774 during which journey Captain Drysdale died. He took control of the ship which needed urgent repairs and therefore docked at Gibraltar, Spain instead. In a few months, he sailed to Algiers, Algeria from Alicant, Spain to deliver Spanish troops during which he witnessed the annihilation of these troops by the Algerians which made him return to Alicant soon. He immediately set sail across the vast Atlantic Ocean for Baltimore, USA. As he entered the Chesapeake Bay on 1st October he was surprised by the British Sloop of war Kingfisher. An officer searched his ship and informed him that Americans had rebelled and that battles were being fought. He was fortunate enough to escape detention.  Returning to Philadelphia he was determined to serve the Americans fight against the British. At that time a couple of small vessels were under at Baltimore ready to join the small squadron of ships stationed then at Philadelphia and commanded by Commodore Hopkins. Barney offered his services to the commander of the sloop Hornet, one of these vessels. He was made the master’s-mate, the sloop’s second in command. A new American Flag, the first ‘Star-spangled Banner’ in the State of Maryland, sent by Commodore Hopkins for the service of the ten gun Hornet, arrived from Philadelphia. At the next sunrise, Barney unfurled it in all pomp and glory. In 1776, Robert Morris, President of the Marine Committee of the Congress offered him a letter of Appointment as a Lieutenant in the Navy of the United States in recognition of his efforts during a naval battle engagement in Delaware.
2. Adams, William Frederick., Commodore Joshua Barney: many interesting facts connected with the life of Commodore Joshua Barney, hero of the United States navy, 1776-1812, 1912. Adams provides a good summary of Mary Barney’s book in this book.
3. Moore, Frank., Diary of the American Revolution, Volume 2, 1860.
4. Cooper, James Fenimore., History of the Navy of the United States of America, 1853.
5. Freneau., Poems written and published during the American Revolutionary War, 1809.
6. Two ships and a brig- a sailing vessel with two masts.
7.  As explained by Barney himself in his painting of this war commissioned later.
8. Bowen, A., The Naval Monument,1815, Concord, MA. This book gives an account of the reception received by Barney in France. 
9. The painting was accompanied by a description, in the handwriting of Commodore Barney, which is reproduced in Mary Barney’s book. 
10. Ahmed, Nazeer., https://historyofislam.com/tippu-sultan/ (downloaded October 13, 2017). 
11. Record of Service, Bureau of Navigation, Navy Department, United States Navy.
12. The conduct of Commodore Barney, at the Battle of Bladensburgh, was appreciated by his military opponents as well. He was wounded in the engagement and was taken prisoner by General Ross and Admiral Cockburn but paroled on the spot. At the time of his death in 1818, the ball was extracted and given to his eldest son.  For the valuable services of her husband, Congress granted Mrs. Barney a pension for life.
13. Goold, William., Portland in the past, 1886. This book has information on at least one more well-known ship named Hyder Ally built in the US in the 1800s after the one described in this story. This ship, like many other US ships, resorted to pirating British ships in the Indian Ocean all the way up to the island of Sumatra and around the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa in the run-up to the British-American War of 1812. 
14. Corbett’s Annual register (1802) documents the ship ‘Tippoo Saib’ registered in Savannah, Georgia, the southernmost of the 13 colonies that declared independence from the British in 1776 and formed the original ‘United States of America’.

source: http://www.thecognate.com / The Cognate / Home> History / by Ameen Ahmed / December 27th, 2021

Trip with an all-woman team helps Koyilandy native to discover her innate self

Koyilandy, KERALA :

The team had 15-members, all women, of whom Shahana had acquaintance with only a single member, Suhaila T, the trip coordinator

Shahana Nizar with children at Pandhi Ka Par village in Rajasthan

Kozhikode :

The story of 32-year-old Shahana Nizar has a slight similarity to Mudrita, the noted Malayalam novel of 2021 penned by Jisa Jose. Mudrita unfolds through the train trip of nine women who were strangers to each other but got together through an online group. Shahana’s maiden 10-day trip, without the company of her family, to Rajasthan by train concluded on December 30. 

The team had 15-members, all women, of whom Shahana had acquaintance with only a single member, Suhaila T, the trip coordinator. 

Hailing from a conservative Muslim family of Koyilandy and mother of 10-year old and four-year-old boys, she had many odds against taking such a trip. But finally, she pulled it off. “Till the moment I boarded the train from Kozhikode railway station, I was not sure I would make it. There were so many obstacles. But my passion for travelling self-liberating me besides, the solid support from my spouse made it happen,” beams Shahana. 

The group had 16-year old Haniya Haris to 39-year old Kadeeja, who were from Kozhikode and Kannur districts. Resorting to a budget tour, the women used public transport service and stayed mostly in youth hostels and residences of acquaintances in Rajasthan.

“It was difficult for me to travel in train for so many days. I was a person who loathed using public toilets. But during the trip, I had to even spend my period days on the train. Surprisingly, I myself adjusted to all of these due to the sheer pleasure travelling gave me. After reaching home and looking back, I found I had discovered myself, the liberal soul in me who wants to fly farther, recharge and come back,” says Shahana, an English Literature graduate. 

“Don’t want to be like mother’

Shahana reminisces that throughout her life, she saw her mother tied up in domestic chores and taking care of kids and her husband at home. “Watching her life, I had taken a strong decision then that I will not be like her. That spark was within me which poured out in the form of musings and scattered lines on Facebook. But there was not an attempt till now. But for my marriage, I think I cannot make a free trip without the ‘care’ of family or relatives. Now, I am brimming with confidence and ready to backpack any moment,” she says. 

While Shahana was on tour, her four-year old son was hospitalized for a day but she came to know it after reaching home only as her husband Nizar Mullasserry managed it. 

The women team’s travel was not all smooth. They had to run with heavy bags through railway platforms in Ajmer in odd hours and many such hardships. The team roamed around Mount Abu, Jodhpur, Ajmer, Udaipur, Barmer and had spent wonderful days at remote Rajasthani villages like Pandhi Ka Par and Viradka Par. 

source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> States> Kerala / by Amiya Meethal / Express News Service / January 24th, 2022

J&K skier Arif Khan qualifies for 2 events in 2022 Winter Olympics

Tangmarg, JAMMU & KASHMIR :

Khan achieved the rare feat recently by qualifying for the his second event — giant slalom — a month after booking his first Winter Olympics ticket in alpine skiing slalom category in an Olympic qualifier in Dubai.

Alpine skier Arif Mohammed Khan. (Twitter/jswsports)

Jammu and Kashmir-based alpine skier Arif Mohammed Khan has become the first Indian athlete to qualify for two different events of the Winter Olympics, set to be held in Beijing from February 4, next year.

Khan achieved the rare feat recently by qualifying for his second event — giant slalom — a month after booking his first Winter Olympics ticket in alpine skiing slalom category in an Olympic qualifier in Dubai.

The news was confirmed by his promoter JSW Sports.

JSW-supported Alpine skier Arif Khan, who had earlier earned a provisional quota for the Slalom event at the 2022 Winter Olympics, has now qualified for the Giant Slalom event as well. ??#BetterEveryday ???? #Beijing2022 pic.twitter.com/Ua6EfIRJ65

— JSW Sports (@jswsports) December 29, 2021

“JSW-supported Alpine skier Arif Khan who had earlier earned a provisional quota for the slalom event at the 2022 Winter Olympics, has now qualified for the giant slalom event as well.

“For the first time in history, an Indian will be competing in two different events at the Winter Olympics,” JSW Sports wrote in a facebook post on Wednesday night.

While India was represented by two athletes — Jagdish Singh (cross country skiing) and Shiva Keshavan (luge) — in the 2018 Winter Games, Khan is the only person to have qualified for the 2022 Winter Games so far.

Khan is a professional alpine skier from north Kashmir’s Tangmarg and has qualified for giant slalom event at Kolasin, Montenegro recently. He has represented India in more than 100 ski events held across the world and has been undergoing training in Europe for the most part of this year.

source: http://www.indianexpress.com / The Indian Express / Home> Sports / December 30th, 2021